1959 Lone Star El Dorado (part 2)

jbcurt00

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I'd use the rigid pink or blue insulation from HD/Lowes.

Its closed cell so it can be immersed underwater w little absorption and would allow any water that finds its way below decks to drain out.

It floats about 60lbs per cubic foot, roughly the same as pour in 2lb foam. So based on hull and motor weight, estimate how much you need. I suspect you'll need every bit you can get below decks and behind the side panels. In/under the cabin storage spaces, its deck and along the side walls of the cabin too. Those 18ft El Dorados arent exceptionally lightweight boats. Less then most 18ft glassers, but not lightweight.....

LS probably put about enough to pass the level float USCG requirement at some point, but in practice, many aluminum boats appear to be extremely short of that when we pull them apart. Besides, I suspect your 1959 was made well ahead of the level float requirement's enactment.

It comes in several thicknesses, so get a few, all in 4X8 sheets.

A 2in thick 4X8 sheet equals 32 1ftX1ft pieces 2in thick. Stack 6 1ftX1ft 2in pieces to get a cubic foot. That means a 4X8 sheet of 2in foam provides approx 320lbs of flotation 'value', and equates to 5.3333 cubic ft.

You'd need roughly 6 whole 4X8 sheets of 2in foam to float a 1900lb boat and motor. Or roughly 12 whole sheets of 1in foam. Or a mix there of.

1900lbs is not an accurate estimate of your boat's weight, it was simply a random number I used for the math.

Seats and upholstery attached to the hull has some flotation value as does any wood. The vast majority of the weight of your boat in the water does not, the motor and hull itself.
 

monriverguy

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Good info JB, Ok so i think i can get two sheets in the side panels one on each side aprox "16x24x4" between each side wall brace up to the cabin. so that give me 640 lbs flotation ? and what is the best way to cut the foam panels??
 

Luke000

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Good info JB, Ok so i think i can get two sheets in the side panels one on each side aprox "16x24x4" between each side wall brace up to the cabin. so that give me 640 lbs flotation ? and what is the best way to cut the foam panels??

I am probably going to end up using a heat knife, HF or WalMart seem to have good prices on them. If you do the HF route don't forget the %20 off coupon!
 

monriverguy

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Thanks for the tip on the hot knife Luke going to HF to get mine, Now i took a few measurements and if i stuff all the side walls with 4" x24"x16" and the floors with 2"x16" x 48 " it will add up to about 3 full sheets of foam and i might be able to get a half sheet or so up front in the bow area. Now the question is is that enough? 320 lbs per sheet times 3 1/2 =1120 and on the lone star boat ad it says aprox weight 775 lb but shipping weight is aprox 910 lb why the difference? And when you refer to the dry weight of the boat what does that mean ? (before i load my beer on it) LOL

Thanks again for everyone advice !!
 

monriverguy

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071215482004sm.jpg
And is this the stuff i want to use its 2" thick 4 ft by 8 ft ,,
 

jbcurt00

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Dry for your boat means just no fuel and 775lbs is w/out the outboard.

I suspect the 135lbs extra weight shipped is for a pallet, or since LoneStar commissioned self branded trailers, it could be for a trailer. IIRC, some LS trailers were light duty.

Once the boat was made, LS had to get it to a dealer somehow. Via frieght would require a pallet or trailer to load and unload it.
 

monriverguy

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And what about the foam board JB is that the right stuff? I am hoping to go get a few sheets this week and start cutting....
 

monriverguy

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Ok quick update, I got some foam cut for the sides and now trying to figure out the floor foam, my question is can you put to much foam in a boat,I read on here some where some one said to much can be bad is that true?? and as for the hot knife Luke i got one but the putty knife way works better IMO,
you might want to save your twenty bucks.:)
 

fhhuber

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Well... too much flotation would potentially raise the floor, raising the center of gravity and introducing stability issues

Its my opinion that there should be passages for water to get to the centerline and the centerline should have a few inches wide without foam to allow drainage. (rain, splashing into the boat, etc able to get to the drain plug) You need occasional access points to clean this "tunnel" system out (leaves and stuff)
 

monriverguy

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I will not be putting foam above the floor level and i also think i will glue little blocks of foam to the big sheets to keep it up off the bottom, but will all the foam change the way the boat rides or floats? am i replacing the air pockets with foam ? will this hurt in any way ?
 

jbcurt00

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The foam weighs very little, it wont change how the boat floats or rides. What makes you ask that?

The air below decks iant sealed into the hull on a tin boat like it might be in a fiberglass hull.

Will it hurt what?
 

monriverguy

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i just remember reading some where on a post that some one wrote that foam in the bottom of a tin boat might make it flip over if water got in it... Sorry for so many questions on the foam just want to make sure its the right thing to do............
Thanks again JB
 

fhhuber

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If there's enough water in the boat that foam being low in the boat makes it flip... it sank. The boat being upside down is the least of your problems.
 

jbcurt00

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Why arent you filling the sides of the hull below the gunwale w foam too?
 

jbcurt00

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i just remember reading some where on a post that some one wrote that foam in the bottom of a tin boat might make it flip over if water got in it... Sorry for so many questions on the foam just want to make sure its the right thing to do............
Thanks again JB

You arent asking too many questions. There is lots of info about most aspects of a boat rehab online. Not all of it in agreement and not all of it accurate in all situations.

Digging in, asking questions and trying to decide whats the best way to do things for your boat, skill level, time frame and budget is always important.
 

monriverguy

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Well i got the sides of the boat filled with foam and still deciding on the floor foam, In the mean time what do you all think about the battery placement ? I will have one battery for the running lights and the pump that will hook in to the switch panel on the helm, any thoughts on a good place to place it ? i wont need one for the motor as i am going with a 1964 28 hp Evinrude with no electric start. but will have one in the back for a trolling motor...

Thanks again for every ones thought ....
 

jbcurt00

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Price large guage battery cables. Many plan to put batteries and fuel tanks pretty far forward, but after getting the cost for fuel fill hose or battery cables, they end up closer to the stern.

I'd place the batteries under the seats at the cabin bulkhead, guessing that at some.point you'll want more motor then the 28hp.

Or you could run a wire chase from stern to where ever to have the ability to re-run longer cables later if/when you go w a bigger motor. But for now w the 28hp, put the batteries at the stern.
 

jbcurt00

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And look thru the big Starcraft tin boat builds, they all use as much below deck foam as possible.
 

monriverguy

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P3130131.JPG P3130131.JPG OK so far i have 3 sheets of 4 foot by 8 foot 2 inch thick foam in the boat and will get a total of 4 when i do the front and under the seats. I cut little blocks of foam and glued it to the bigger piece with 5200 to keep drainage good. here are a few pics
 
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