1960 15032

[doors67us]

Hey all ,I'm wondering if anyone can help,I've replaced both coils,new points and condensers,spark plug leads,new plugs,fuel pump seems to be working fine,it'll start and run sputters,then will run fine for a few seconds, carburetor is rebuilt, the upper crankshaft seal is leaking, perhaps that's my issue? Got me rubbing my head

 

[Crosbyman]

make certain the fuel pump is doing it's job.... if pumping the bulb helps stabilize things I would work on the pump before digging in.

 

[oldboat1]

top needle 1 1/2 turns open from lightly closed; 1/2 to 3/4 for the bottom needle (initial settings, subject to fine tuning). Motor should start and warm up with these settings.

 

[JDusza]

Yes. Check fuel pump. Disconnect line from pump to carburetor. Wrap pump exit with rag. Turn over engine. Do not start. Just turn it over. Fuel should be pumped into rag with engine rotation, not weeping, nice spurting. The fuel pump's job is to try to flood the carburetor. The carburetor needle valve is the flow regulator.
Does the engine run long enough to put a timing light on it? If you have one, put a timing light on each cylinder and watch for misfires. Find TDC on each cylinder and mark the flywheel.
If timing is good and consistent, you're looking at fuel delivery. I don't know if a bad seal will rob fuel delivery. Depending on how the carburetor was serviced, you may still have low speed jets getting blocked. Either pop the welch plug to get to the jets for a proper cleaning or go in the carb throat with florist wire and poke through them to be sure they're clean. It is possible that without removing the welch plug, there's still junk in the cavity that can reblock the jets.
J

 

[Crosbyman]

My last batch of Chinese pumps (5) are bad and do not pump fuel ...I have one on a modified 1956 10hp and I have the exact symptom you have.

I have ordered a couple of B&S round pumps to replace the square ones as in this picture

 

[oldboat1]

Shoot. I have a couple of the cheapies that have seemed to work OK. Door67 -- I would mess with the air mix a bit before replacing or rebuilding the pump. But do the bulb test that Crosbyman suggests.

 

[doors67us]

My pump is a Sierra had it since 09 has always worked well,have the original one from 1960 but can't get replacement parts for it ,it's got me baffled,new points, condenser,coils,plugs, wires, Evinrude carburetor rebuild kit, compression is 100psi on one cylinder and 105 on the other, which ought to be fine

 

[Hab]

A few things come to mind from my own struggles. I once installed a set of points in such a way that the gap between the condenser connector and base was smaller than the point gap. Points would intermittently arc to the base rather than actually opening the circuit. Once I also managed to pinch my fuel lines between the air box and the starter. That one took almost a week to figure out. May not be helpful, but a few operator induced errors that can happen.

 

[Crosbyman]

no need to replace pump parts ... common square pumps will work fine and usually cheaper than parts !!! .


if it is a pump issue ex; main diaphragm

some folk use nitrile glove or sheets to cut a good pieces out and replace the pump diaphragm or you can thread the side cover plate , install a 90 deg NPT nipple & vacum hose to a nice B&S pump and voilà !

 

[doors67us]

I've tired all of the above suggestions, today I messed around with it brought the number one cylinder up to top dead center the cam did not line up with the points completely on number one I'm not sure how to adjust that or what the problem is but my understanding of mechanics when number one is lined up the cam should be lined up on top dead center, is there a way to adjust the magneto plate so those lineup properly?

 

[hardwater fisherman]

My limited understanding says that tdc has nothing to do with point setting. Just set the points on the highest spot on the cam lobe.

 

[Hab]

I dont really know your engine, but your points should open at close to top dead center. Every engine is different, but generally at idle, the points open at TDC or at less than 7 degrees after TDC. You should have some sort of mechanical timing advance. That should allow the point to open at 15 to 20 degrees before TDC at WOT. Yes there should be a way to bring your timing into alignment. For many engines there is mechanical link between the plate that the points are mounted to and the throttle arm.

 

[doors67us]

It's close to TDC,and my motor is a 1960 Evinrude 18 HP, is there a way to time the engine without a timing light or a timing fixture? I've pulled the mag plate back out and cleaned up everything, thought perhaps I had a short/grounding issue,not sure of the outcome yet

 

[hardwater fisherman]

There are videos on youtube that show how to set them with a multimeter. I set them to .020 at the highest spot on the cam lobe. Turn the crankshaft until the points are at there widest and set to .020. I have used both methods with good results.

 

[doors67us]

Well I think my issue is solved,bought a Sierra int points and condenser set, changed it,it fire's up and ran like it should,I previously had installed EMP marine points and condenser set,I'm guessing that they were defective,does anyone have any experience with EMP marine products?I'm trying to get my$. Back from the ebay seller.