1960 40 hp- lot of oil during test run

LymanJohnson

Cadet
Joined
Sep 17, 2015
Messages
10
Completed rebuilding 1960 40 hp Johnson. Runs great, idles great. Temp/thermostat/water pump working well. Seemed to be running rich, with a lot of smoke, but adjusted low speed to what appears to be a good mix (less smoke). Also ran a compression test- both cylinders were 90 lbs. Also, my fuel mix is 24:1. However, when I test ran the motor, their was a lot of oil residue on the lower unit and in the water barrel. (See pic below) Is this normal? Should I be worried about a leak out of the gear case?
 

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geoffwga1

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Aug 8, 2010
Messages
395
Normal for running in a barrel,out on the lake you won't notice it.
 

F_R

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jul 7, 2006
Messages
28,226
You are about the 10-thousandth person to question the goop formed when running in a barrel. Get it out of that barrel and onto a boat on the lake, and adjust it properly, and both you and the motor will be much happier.
 

LymanJohnson

Cadet
Joined
Sep 17, 2015
Messages
10
Well, I don't have that luxury at the moment. My wooden Lyman is completely stripped down and has about 3-4 months of refinishing ahead of me. I was getting the motor running before I got started on the boat part. Until then, I'll take racerone's advice and adjust it in a barrel. It just appeared to be a LOT of oil. I guess that's why they don't make 2-cycle outboards anymore.
 

oldboat1

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Apr 3, 2002
Messages
9,612
I bought a DC pressure washer kit to use on the boat this summer, and it works pretty well. I'm thinking I will try it with hot water and detergent this fall to clean out the leg in a motor I might work on -- lot of nastiness sometimes in a new project. Most of that residue you show was probably already there. If in doubt about what the stuff is, wipe some up an smell it. If it smells like gas, it's gas. Gear oil has a funky sulphur smell. I see in an earlier post that you did some gearcase work, so not impossible there is some gearcase leakage (unlikely). Need to pressure and vacuum test it anyway.

Think the main issue when running in a barrel is a tendency to over rev, but I'm a believer in barrel testing. Lot of guys seem to just run on muffs instead, but that's no good for adjustments or testing -- and popping it on the back of a boat for testing is unrealistic for all but a few of us. (Along with some hard water issues out on the lake when I'm messing with a winter project.)

I purposefully left a large section of driveway in gravel when I had a workshop/garage built, in part because I have this messy hobby. I use a barrel, keep the hose running, and let the overflow kill weeds in my parking area. I'm guessing your motor will run progressively cleaner, now that you have it largely dialed in. Have to wait to boat test for final settings, but can get it pretty well prepped, and ready for the restored hull. Clean up the plugs, wipe off the leg. Keep the hose running.

Good luck with the project. Nice rig.
 

Greg O.

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jan 9, 2011
Messages
125
That does seem like a lot of oil. But then again, I have never run a 40hp in a barrel, only 10hp and smaller. One of the problems with a barrel the motor sucks in a lot of dirty air from the exhaust. It does help to have a good fan to blow the smoke away. But as mentioned above a barrel can be used to get it dialed in close, but final adjustments need to be made once it is on the boat and in the water. Muffs dont work either, because of the back pressure created by the water once the motor is in the lake.
 
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