1960 johnson 18hp no power

[dbechtel71]

Shows 90 sorry . So both have 90 according to my older tester. Something just isn’t making sense.

 

[dbechtel71]

As far as the bowl filter I noticed the brown fuel well after I drained it. I pulled engine over to get remaining fuel out of pump and that’s when I noticed it.

 

[racerone]

Use the manual pump on the hose.----Does the motor start and keep running then ?-----Should not be hard to make a diaphragm for one of these pumps.-----And does spark jump a gap of 5/16", yes or no ?

 

[dbechtel71]

At first the motor was spit and sputtering but would stay running. It’s when I put it in forward and give full throttle it seems like it’s almost loading up but really boggy. It’s so hard to tell . How to I check the 5/16 spark gap? Thanks

 

[racerone]

Start motor and pull one plug wire of at a time.-----What happens ??-----Have you adjusted high and low speed mixture needles after starting the motor , yes or no ?

 

[oldboat1]

Get one of these to measure spark:


If mine, I would buy one of the cheap square pumps and test it with that (square pump is a replacement for that motor). Take the filter out of the glass bowl to test. Use Champion J4C plugs gapped to .030. Initial setting for the h.s. needle (bottom) is about 3/4 to 1 turn open, about 1 to 1 and 1/2 for the l.s. needle.

 

[dbechtel71]

I did try adjusting the needles both with no change. I bought j8c per numerous sites. I will try the 4c next . I guess what’s more money as I’ve already put enough in it. It’s a really nice motor I want so bad to get it running. Any idea what part number for the replacement pump? Thanks everyone

 

[dbechtel71]

Where could I find one of those tools to check spark old boat 1 ?

 

[dbechtel71]

I’ve tried adjusting the low speed needle at least as I cant get going fast enough to check high speed

 

[racerone]

Well ---make something.-------2 pieces of wire a foot long.----Almost any wire will do.-------Glue / staple them on a piece of cardboard with 5/16" gap between the ends.------Stick the one end in the plug boot.-----Clip the other end on the motor block.-----Pull the starter cord.

 

[dbechtel71]

Well I bought spark tester and yes I see a blue current that covers 5/16 gap. I took filter out. And put new plugs in. I’m going out later and see if that works. I’m gonna use the bulb on line to see if that makes any difference

 

[jimmbo]

I did try adjusting the needles both with no change. I bought j8c per numerous sites. I will try the 4c next . Thanks everyone

The correct plug is J4C, J8cs are too hot. Champion, for some reason has put J8c as the plug for just about everything from the 50s, 60s, and most of the 70s, for anything with points ignition.

 

[oldboat1]

sorry for the delayed response. Try 0388685 for an oem fuel pump replacement.

While it's true that final needle adjustments need to be made on the lake (h.s. adjustment at WOT or thereabouts), you can get close at lower rpms -- then hit the lake. I think testing with a known good fuel pump is probably a good start. There are pumps similar to the oem model above for much less money. Sierra is less (check here at iBoats).

I bought a couple of foreign knock off pumps for about $20/ea (maybe less -- don't quite recall), and have had no issues. I think of them as throw-aways if they fail (i.e., keep for parts).

 

[dbechtel71]

Well I’m done with this motor. I put new j4c plugs gapped to .030. I took filter out. Filled the bowl up with gas. Started up seemed to run good at idle. Go to full throttle and it’s loading up with heavy blue smoke everywhere. I even squeezed the bulb to see if that made any difference and it didn’t so I assume the pump is fine.I tried turning high speed needle to the right to lean it but no luck. I took bottom plug off and it would stay running but obvious difference. I took top off and it died. Whatever that means. I’m no dummie and I’m very mechanically inclined but this has ticked me off. All my 13 year old son lives and breathes fishing and I can’t. Anyways other than getting another carb there’s nothing else to do.

 

[54bobby]

are you sure that all the plastic/fiber washers are installed in the carb between the two needles as well as the thicker one on the nozzle and the one on the float valve? are the tips of both needles clean and straight with NO nicks , scratches , or carbon build up? Have you disassembled the carb and compared all the parts to the schematic of your year and model? may be missing some washers that are actually gaskets. could your high and low speed needles be switched up? just throwing things out there.

 

[dbechtel71]

Thanks for the input. I’ve taken the carb apart numerous times. To my knowledge everything was and is as supposed to be. The kit had a couple left over like a larger red felt washer that doesn’t go anywhere. I put two brown washer in each needle valve. BrNd new float too

 

[oldboat1]

Are you testing on muffs? (running WOT on muffs?) Gas to oil ratio should be 24:1.

 

[dbechtel71]

Marine engine .com doesn’t have schematic parts diagram for my fd 14 I’ve been going by the fd 15 model as it looks to be the same

 

[dbechtel71]

No I’m in a large tub.

 

[dbechtel71]

I put engine in a large tub and run it that way. I had the propeller off so water wouldn’t spray everywhere