1960 rds-22

[John the landlubber]

How long should she run in a test tank before water starts pumping out? I have heard that no water will pump until the engine reaches a certain temperaure, making the thermostat open, is this accurate information? Also, I need to find a supplier for a carb kit and impellor kit. Any suggestions anyone in the UK?

 

[MCM]

Re: 1960 rds-22

John, Once the thermostat has opened, usually between 130-150 deg. you should see a discharge just below the powerhead assy. at the rear of the motor, the remainder is carried on out through the exhaust just above the prop.<br /><br />You could try Maxrules.com for parts. You should alos consider replacing the t,stat at the same time as the water pump/impeller, carb kit etc.

 

[John the landlubber]

Re: 1960 rds-22

Thanks MCM. Bought this engine as non-runner last summer. Have discussed details with others on this forum at length, (mainly CAT Transplant and Paul Moir) and established that the numpty who had the engine before me has welded the gear shift rods together, probably because the joint had worn/stripped perhaps even last time impellor was changed. Engine hadn't been run for five years plus so at this point, faced with cutting the shift rods somehow, complete powerhead removal and re-assembly I thought it would be prudent to try and establish whether the engine was still pumping water.So I checked for a spark, bought a tank and primer bulb, stuck it in a tank and pulled the cord. Would you believe it started first pull! (well, first pull after I located the choke and switched it on.) It ran, ticked over and revved (low speed in neutral) fine for about a minute or two, the spluttered and died. Started it again, no problem but then started to get a misfire and popped back through the carb. Then became difficult so start and if it does start it misfires and dies. I am gonna overhaul the carb as soon as i can find a kit in the uk (maxrules doesn't list one for this model) and tinker with the low speed mixture. Any other suggestions apart from a broken reed? I really need to get the thin to run to thermo temperature to establish whether it's worth overhauling completely. Many Thanks mate.

 

[MCM]

Re: 1960 rds-22

Broken reed sounds like a posibility. A couple other places to try for parts are Featherweightoutboards.com, <br /><br />Americanoutboards.com, Twincityoutboards.com are good places to look for hard to find new and used parts. Don't know of any places located in the U.K. unfortunately.

 

[MCM]

Re: 1960 rds-22

You can try this place on EBAY, found quite a few other parts listed for that motor on ebay as well. I'm pretty sure that kit won't come with a float which you'll probably need to replace the cork float in yours.

 

[surlyjoe]

Re: 1960 rds-22

the cork float you can prolly just paint with epoxy. I bet its just crap in the carbs makin it run like that.<br /><br />if you need a coupler for the shift rod since the original one prolly wont work again, they make a slew of them for small CNC milling machines that may work without too much modding

 

[John the landlubber]

Re: 1960 rds-22

Can anyone tell if I need to do anything before cutting the shift rods using a hacksaw blade? will it cause any damage if the filings drop down into the lower unit. If this is the case I thought i could spray a little expanding foam in just below the inspection port. Is this necessary? Also, the cover for this port is missing, what would happen if water was to get in here from running in test tank? Is there a way I can crank this engine over using the starter motor, despite me not having a wirinjg harness, solenoid or key switch? can i just run some wires from a 12v battery, one to positive on starter, one to ground? Is there an easy way of knowing roughly where the low speed idle adjustment should be when I try to start the engine, i.e a set amount of anti-clockwise turns from the closed position. Thanks all, would be lost without you!!!

 

[MCM]

Re: 1960 rds-22

Getting metal shavings/filings into the L/U gears would probably not be a good thing. You may be able to try using some heave duty bolt cutters to avoid that.<br /><br />I think you should be able to crank the motor by jumping it at the starter as you say, but you should avoid trying to start it as it will be difficult to stop without a key switch, you'll either have pull the pug wires or choke it to a stop.<br /><br />Low speed needle should be approximately 7/8 turns out to start with, then adjust for best performance.<br /><br />If you don't have the service manual you really should consider getting it. Kencook.com and MarineEngine.com both sell manuals. They can be found on Ebay as well.

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: 1960 rds-22

I think you're labouring under the impression that the top of the lower unit is unsealed to the exhaust area, where the shift rod coupler normally is. It is not. If you cut the shift rod through the inspection port, the filings will simply fall onto the water pump & exhaust. It'll be a very simple matter to wash them away after fully removing the lower unit.<br /><br />When you jump to the starter, make sure your final connection is at the battery or at least to a temporary ground to prevent messing up the stud on the starter. There won't be *that* big a spark but it will do some welding.<br /><br />Since the cover opens into the exhaust, running without it will be a fair bit louder than running with it in place. Water intrusion isn't a problem as it's already supposed to be flooded in there.<br /><br />The brass shift rod coupler was used (maybe still is?) for years on many, many different models. It is still available from your local dealer. Or ebay. Or just about any outboard junkyard if you can locate one.

 

[Chinewalker]

Re: 1960 rds-22

Don't cut the shift rod! Cut the connector! Actually, it can be broken fairly easily, as it is cast brass. Stick a heavy duty screwdriver into the gap between the bolts and twist.<br />I've got several extras if you can't find one locally...<br />- Scott

 

[John the landlubber]

Re: 1960 rds-22

Thanks all. Thanks for the offer chinewalker, very gracious of you. Am not sure how far back you read in my posts but the two rods appear to have been welded together, and i'm not sure whether the connector is in there.(you can't see it) Also I am in the UK. I am expecting to have to get the shift rods as well as the connector after cutting as I would rather put all the powerhead together and know that the mechanism was the right length than have to take it all apart again. I want to put this engine on a hull that requires a long shaft, and know of a long shaft RDSL-23 donor engine or a RDS-27a (serial no. c440655. Can anyone confirm tha the lower units and shift rods will fit straight in or if any modifications wilol be required?