1962 10hp Johnson-Low compresion

eddyf

Cadet
Joined
Feb 12, 2004
Messages
14
Hello: I am trying to get a 1962 10hp johnson running with out any luck. First I changed the points and condensers to get it to fire but still wouldn't start. Next I checked the compression and there was only about 70 psi in both cylinders. Is this too low for a motor to even run? So I thought that I would put a new set of rings in it but I can't get the powerhead to seperate from the bottom. Do you know if it just slips off of the drive shaft or do I have to take something apart in the foot? Is there a way to time these motors or do you just set the points? Thanks for any help.<br /><br />Chris
 

Cricket Too

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
May 14, 2003
Messages
1,732
Re: 1962 10hp Johnson-Low compresion

I would bet that it would run if both cylinders are at 70 psi., usually if they are even it is O.K.. Have you made sure it is getting fuel? Maybe clean and rebuild the carb. If you can get it running, i would decarb it and that may restore some compression. Not sure about the timing. Good luck.
 

Paul Moir

Admiral
Joined
Nov 5, 2002
Messages
6,847
Re: 1962 10hp Johnson-Low compresion

You can time it two ways. One is to open the points to the maximum by turning the cam. You'll notice this happens when the key on the tapered part points toward the point's rubbing block. This should be set to .020".<br />The other way involves a timing light or a meter. If you look at the armature plate (where the coils sit) you'll see two marks about 1/4" apart. When one of the coresponding marks on the flywheel lines up between the two marks, the points should open, the spark spark, the timing light flashes, and the resistance across the points increases ever so slightly.<br /><br />I suspect the reason you can't get the powerhead off is because the driveshaft is frozen (rusted) to the crankshaft in the engine. Try to remove the lower unit first. The shift shaft disconnect is behind the window on the exhaust leg.<br /><br />Don't rering without honing the cylinders lightly. This step alone will probably pick you up 10psi. Like mmcpeck, I think it should run at 70psi. A good test to see if the carb is pluged is to put some premixed gas in a spray bottle, and spray it down the carb's throat.<br /><br />If you're trying to rering this without a manual, you're flying blind. There's plenty of critical torques and measurements you need to know. Sometimes, our local libraries have a manual you can borrow. Otherwise, look to ebay, or iboats.
 
D

DJ

Guest
Re: 1962 10hp Johnson-Low compresion

eddyf,<br /><br />70 psi. is not bad. If you do anything, decarb. it.<br /><br />Get some SeaFoam from NAPA and pour some down the spark plug holes. Then, mix it in the fuel. <br /><br />I'll bet it will come back to life.
 

Xcusme

Commander
Joined
Apr 21, 2003
Messages
2,888
Re: 1962 10hp Johnson-Low compresion

Eddyf, Did you say that were able to get good spark to both cylinders??
 

eddyf

Cadet
Joined
Feb 12, 2004
Messages
14
Re: 1962 10hp Johnson-Low compresion

Thanks for the help. I also tried putting some gas in the cylinders and it didn't kick off at all. There seems to be good fire on both plugs and the points are set at .020". More suggestions please.
 

R.Johnson

Rear Admiral
Joined
Sep 24, 2003
Messages
4,446
Re: 1962 10hp Johnson-Low compresion

I think we're back to the old question about compression guage's. They can range all over the map, and on a two cycle engine, prove very unreliable. The most accurate test is a leak-down test. I just did a compression test on an old 135 HP. Test showed less than 10 lb. difference. Leak down showed #2 cylinder leaking like a basket.
 
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