1962 10hp Johnson PLEASE HELP

djnick2000

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Sep 1, 2006
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Ok, I have a 1962 10 hp johnson. This was my great grandfathers motor origionally so I really want to try and keep it running. Right now it wont start. New plugs, new plug wires, new kill switch, points have been cleaned, coils tested and fine....now on to the problem. Origionaly my dad was working on this for me and said that only one cylinder was firing. But if he pulled the top spark plug off and away about a quarter inch, then they would both fire. Now, for some reason, nothing is firing. He reversed the coil packs, just traded there positions, would this affect anything? Right now I think the biggest problem is that I don't think the points are staying gapped right. I set he gaps, tighten everything down, put the wheel back on and pull the starter rope a couple of times and then I check my points and they are gapped wrong again. Am I missing something? I really wish I could see a picture of how everything is supposed to look on a 10 hp johnson so I can see what might be wrong. I'm at a loss and I cant really afford anything new. Not to mention this motor has some sentimental value to me that a new motor wont have. I know very little about engines so I have a hard time trouble shooting at this point. Do all 4 wires under the fly wheel go to the same screw? technically 8 wires I guess. 4 on each side. I apologise about how vague this is, I just feel overwhelmed by this motor right now. Thanks for your help.
 

robot

Seaman Apprentice
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Jun 10, 2006
Messages
36
Re: 1962 10hp Johnson PLEASE HELP

purchase the service manual. follow the troubleshooting procedures. read the FAQ about reviving a dead motor.

i did. I'm a believer
 

RPJS

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Messages
1,572
Re: 1962 10hp Johnson PLEASE HELP

2 wires from the coil- one goes to earth the other to the points. They should have different size terminals on each wire, the larger terminal goes to earth.
1 wire from the condenser- goes to points
1 wire from kill switch- goes to points.

Set the points gap to .020" with the cam follower lined up with the key.

If there are any cracks in the coils they need replacing.

The kill switch should be normaly open to run, closed to stop.

As robot said, get the manual.
 

djnick2000

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Re: 1962 10hp Johnson PLEASE HELP

I guess I'm gonna have to get the manual. Any idea were you can find a manual for a 62 johnson? So one of the 4 wires should be grounded? Is there a particualr screw I'm looking for to ground it out on?
 

Paul Moir

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Re: 1962 10hp Johnson PLEASE HELP

Yeah, you need a manual. It's well worth it. Do yourself a favour and get the factory one from kencook.com maxrules.com theoutboardwizard.bizhosting.com.
Or if you want to be thrifty (kencook.com charges plenty for their photocopier!), pick up the manual on CD from acmeoutboards.com.
Occasionally you can find this manual used on Ebay, but ones from then are sort of rare.

In the mean time, have a look at a few links:
http://outboard-boat-motor-repair.com/ (A couple articles showing how those magnetos are set up on 3/5.5hp outboards. But DO NOT use his method for removing a flywheel on your 10hp! Use a puller that acts on the three bolt holes in the centre of the flywheel, like an automotive harmonic balancer puller. Each kill switch wire connects to a set of points too. Flywheel nut torque is 45ft/lbs ;) )

1958 Evinrude 10hp website. A little older than yours but probably at least a little helpful.

You are adjusting the points to open .020" max right? They're at their maximum when the flywheel key in the crankshaft is "pointing" at the point's rubbing block, but you can just rotate the engine and observe too.
 

djnick2000

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Re: 1962 10hp Johnson PLEASE HELP

Ok, first thing I'll try is making sure all the wires are where they are supposed to be. I don't think my dad has the coil pack grounded to anything. I think he has hooked all 4 wires up to the points. thanks for the websites Mr. Moir, they are very helpful.
 

djnick2000

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Re: 1962 10hp Johnson PLEASE HELP

Ok, I got the wiring issue lined out today. I got it to turn over once right after the wiring was done. now I can't get anything to happen. I've got spark. Both cylindars are firing. points good, coil packs are good. It still wont turn over. Carbs been cleaned by a mechanic but the plugs don't seem to be geting much gas if any. Is there a timing issue I need to be aware of in a 62 Johnson? Can the timing be out of wack? I haven't gotten to take this thing out yet this year. I'm feeling desperate! d:) If I took pictures of my setup would that help?
 

Paul Moir

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Re: 1962 10hp Johnson PLEASE HELP

If you've got good spark, you're timing has to be at least close to right. Fill up a spray/windex bottle with fuel/oil mix, spray it down the carb's throat and see if you can get it to fire on that.

You don't happen to have the spark plug wires backwards do you? The frontish coil runs the top cylinder.

Send your pics to paul.moir@gmail.com and I'll see if I can see anything wrong.
 

djnick2000

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Re: 1962 10hp Johnson PLEASE HELP

Thank you Mr. Moir, I'll try that. I have sent the pictures to the e-mail address you provided. thank you so much for your help. I checked in on some of the repir shops around here, and there is no way I can afford to pay what these guys charge. I'm gonna have to do this myself, and with your help. Thank you.

Nick Smith
 

Silvertip

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Sep 22, 2003
Messages
28,771
Re: 1962 10hp Johnson PLEASE HELP

If you don't want to buy a service manual, check your local library. Many of them have service manuals you can check out for up to two weeks. They may not have one for your exact engine, but they may have one close enough. For questions that don't get answered in the manual, come on back here.
 

djnick2000

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Sep 1, 2006
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Re: 1962 10hp Johnson PLEASE HELP

Ok, I got the wiring issues fixed, carbs been cleaned. It actualy started to turn over. now I can't get my points to stay set. I set them, pull the rope 3 or 4 times, and then they are not set anymore. Any suggestions on why I have this problem now?
 

Paul Moir

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Re: 1962 10hp Johnson PLEASE HELP

Are the points actually twisting? Point locking screws (the big ones) nice and tight? In the pictures you send, I see one of the adjusters (little screws) is snapped off. Has that been fixed?

Is the armature plate really wobbly?

I don't see a wick, have you got a nice, thin coat of grease on the cam?
 

F_R

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Re: 1962 10hp Johnson PLEASE HELP

The cam which opens the points wouldn't happen to be cracked would it? That would knock the rubbing block down quickly.
 

djnick2000

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Re: 1962 10hp Johnson PLEASE HELP

No the cam is not cracked. armature plate is tight, does not wobble. The missing adjustment screw is still missing. My dad swears that screw has been missing for years and he has never had a problem with it. I'm not sure.

I'm not sure what you mean by "wick".

The last time the motor ran was a few weeks ago when my dad removed the coils to have them tested. they tested fine. he put them back on and it has not started since.

Could he have damaged something or obstructed something that would keep the points from staying set. Is the cam supposed to move at all? it's never set in the same place when I remove the armature plate.
 

Paul Moir

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Re: 1962 10hp Johnson PLEASE HELP

Uhhh, I think I see the problem!

The cam spins with the engine to open and close the points. They're supposed to open and close like little switches when the engine spins. When they open, the ignition coil generates a spark.

Turn the engine (use the flywheel nut and a wrench) so the cam opens the points to their maximum, then set them at .020". A 0.022" feeler should not fit between them, but the .020" should slide with just a slight resistance. They'll be open at their maximum when the flywheel key in the crankshaft "points" to the rubbing block on the point.

If I'm right, don't feel too bad. :)

A wick is a little piece of felt dampened with light oil and pressed against the cam. It wipes a thin film of oil onto it so the rubbing blocks on the points don't wear down quickly. In leiu of them, you can use a good quality grease smeared lightly on the face of the cam. But be careful not to get any on the crankshaft taper. If you do, clean it off before installing the flywheel.
 
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