1962 75 HP Johnson idle issues?

newfiez

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 26, 2008
Messages
324
After a week of having the old beast running nice (since the ignition issue), it now starts, but dies right away. The only way to keep it running is to choke it half way, then manually turn the throttle by hand so it won't stall. High RPM's can be reached while in Neutral by doing it this way, but as soon as you let the throttle down, it dies.

I noticed when I had the engine RPM's up, that there was oily foam and water bubbling out on the right hand lower side of the engine base, towards the back side of the engine. Is it possible that the base gasket blew and I'm losing pressure through there and that's why it won't idle? I don't know much about how these V4's are built :confused:
 

Joe Reeves

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
13,262
Re: 1962 75 HP Johnson idle issues?

If you haven't already, remove and clean that carburetor.

(Carburetor Adjustments - Older V/4 Downdraft Carb)
(J. Reeves)

NOTE: The early model downdraft carburetors incorporated "Adjustable High Speed Jets". The later model downdraft carburetors used "Fixed High Speed Jets". Follow the below instructions accordingly.

NOTE: If you do not have adjustable high speed jets, ignore those paragraphs pertaining to same...... BUT do make sure that you manually inspect and clean the two brass fixed high speed jets which would be located in back of the two 7/16" slotted hex head bolts in the bottom front portion of the float chamber.

Lift the center High Speed Control lever and turn it so that the point faces forward, resting on the high ridge. This will disengage the lever control gear from the individual high speed jets (slots). Have the slow speed needle valve knobs installed upside down so that they can be turned without encountering any obstruction.

Gently seat each of the High Speed needle valves, then back each one out one (1) turn. Gently seat each of the Slow Speed needle valves, then back each one out one and one half (1-1/2) turns. NOTE... have the jam nut on the s/speed needles snug so that vibration won't have any effect on them, but loose enough so that you can turn them without a great amount of effort.

(High Speed)
With a reliable person at the wheel, and one kneeling in front of the engine, start the engine (yes, it will run lousy with the above initial needle valve settings), put it into forward gear, and apply full throttle. Start with the High Speed adjustment on the left using a screwdriver that properly fits the slot.

(High Speed Adjustments)
At full throttle, with the proper size screwdriver, slowly start turning one of the H/S needles in segments of 1/8 turn, waiting momentarily for the engine to respond, then repeat turning. You will reach a point where the engine will start to die out. At that point, back that needle valve out approximately 1/4 turn. Now, go to the other High Speed needle valve and repeat that procedure. At some point in that 1/4 turn out, you will find the smoothest high speed setting (you can now lower the throttle rpm). That will have both high speed needle valves set correctly, and at that point you can lift that center lever adjustment of that high ridge, keeping it lifted until the point is facing the engine, then lower it into its proper position. (When you turn that lever now, you're adjusting both High Speed needle valves at the same time.)

(Slow Speed Adjustments)
Now, lowering the rpms of course, take the engine out of gear and set the throttle just to where the engine will stay running. Again, in segments of 1/8 turn, slowly start turning in one of the slow speed needle valves, waiting a few seconds between each turning for the engine to respond. As you turn the s/speed needles in, the rpms will increase..... and as it does, lower the rpms to where the engine will just stay running (otherwise the rpms will climb quite high). You will reach a point whereas the engine will either start to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back the needle valve out 1/4 turn. Repeat the process with the remaining slow speed needle. Again, at some point in that 1/4 turn out, you will find the smoothest setting. When finished, tighten the jam nut somewhat, then remove and reinstall the s/speed knobs correctly (right side up).
 

newfiez

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 26, 2008
Messages
324
Re: 1962 75 HP Johnson idle issues?

I got it to start and run with no issues now. Thanks for the adjustment procedures!

Does anyone know what the water leak is from?
 

Evinrude Boater

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Jul 6, 2004
Messages
1,144
Re: 1962 75 HP Johnson idle issues?

Does anyone know what the water leak is from?

There's an adapter plate below the engine block where the thermostat is installed. Yes the gasket might be leaking. The cooling water comes in along the right side of that plate and the crank case dumps excess fuel down the exhaust on the right side of the engine. I doubt the engine is pressurizing this area but rather the water pump.
 

newfiez

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Sep 26, 2008
Messages
324
Re: 1962 75 HP Johnson idle issues?

That sounds about right. So there's no issue running the engine like this until the fall? There's quite the flow of water out the back once it warms up
 

Evinrude Boater

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Jul 6, 2004
Messages
1,144
Re: 1962 75 HP Johnson idle issues?

So there's no issue running the engine like this until the fall?

Hard to say if it'll be alright. If there's water seeping out there's likely water seeping in towards the exhaust. More or less? Who knows? It's a pull the power head repair job. The gaskets are still available. While you have it open check the spring retainer on the bottom of the crank seal. I've had one wear out.
 

newfiez

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 26, 2008
Messages
324
Re: 1962 75 HP Johnson idle issues?

I'm thinking it'll be alright until the fall...the water gushes out the back like a fire hose! :) It's a task to pull the head on the boat in the water...that's why I want to wait until the Fall. I'll check for that retainer when I do the gasket. Thanks!
 
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