1962 SeaKing 40hp

[CBGale2]

Re: 1962 SeaKing 40hp

Are you talking about the hose connection? Isn't it a brass fitting with pipe thread? should swap easy.

Or are you talking about the flange where it bolts to the intake manifold?

Or are you talking about different float bowls?

I guess its just the hose connection on the bottom of the float bowl thats differant, I just did a quick look over the new one and noticed it was smaller on the new one.

 

[tootallofwa]

Re: 1962 SeaKing 40hp

Are you talking about the hose connection? Isn't it a brass fitting with pipe thread? should swap easy.

Or are you talking about the flange where it bolts to the intake manifold?

Or are you talking about different float bowls?

Disregard those questions. I get it. The carb kit won't fit this carb, right?
I looked at mine and the fuel coupler won't change. The one on the fuel pump should though. I'll post pictures of my electric carb off my 28 as soon as my photo editor cooperates.

 

[tootallofwa]

Re: 1962 SeaKing 40hp

Pictures of my electric carb RXL10 62' 28hp Johnson (formerly long shaft)
Tried to show linkages too.

http://i1024.photobucket.com/albums/y309/tootallofwa/28-4.jpg
http://i1024.photobucket.com/albums/y309/tootallofwa/28-3.jpg
http://i1024.photobucket.com/albums/y309/tootallofwa/28-2.jpg
http://i1024.photobucket.com/albums/y309/tootallofwa/28-1.jpg

Page 16 has an exploded view of the Electric carburetor.
Page 17 has part numbers.
http://www.marineengine.com/parts/v...ntage-evinrude-johnson/278446/27844600001.htm

 

[tootallofwa]

Re: 1962 SeaKing 40hp

I guess its just the hose connection on the bottom of the float bowl thats differant, I just did a quick look over the new one and noticed it was smaller on the new one.

You may need a reducer hose coupler 3/8-5/16 put it between the pump and the carb. Not too odd of a part, better hardware stores ought to have one.
(double ended hose nipple)

If the carb isn't gummy I would try it before rebuild, but that's me.
Good Luck! I think it should work fine if you can get the linkage hooked up and a wire to a powered choke switch.

 

[CBGale2]

Re: 1962 SeaKing 40hp

I think it should hook right up as far as the linkages go, and the adapter in the fuel line sounds like the easiest route Id say. For power to the choke it just one hot wire run to the choke with a switch at the dash Im assuming? Heres some pictures of the new and old one side by side.

 

[bktheking]

Re: 1962 SeaKing 40hp

Sounds like a plan to be, or you could always switch out to a 6 wire push to choke switch and run it to the switch.

 

[CBGale2]

Re: 1962 SeaKing 40hp

My boat has a switch in it right now but its busted, guy I got it from said you can start it with a screwdriver. HAHAHA

Im sure it wont be a big deal once I start digging into the wiring on all this, but it all looks a little scary. I miss my FD-11 with no wires . Ive got the wires running up to the dash, and the junction box by the splash well, plus a few loose wires here and there. Genious before me unhooked all sorts of stuff and didnt put it back together. Pretty sure my cutout switch is missing atleast one wire from other pictures Ive seen.

 

[tootallofwa]

Re: 1962 SeaKing 40hp

That carb looks great... What did you need us for???

I put a lighted toggle switch so I could see that it's on. I didn't have push to choke ignition switch. That would be easier to operate, you don't have to take the extra step to turn it off after it fires.

 

[tootallofwa]

Re: 1962 SeaKing 40hp

http://forums.iboats.com/newreply.php?do=newreply&noquote=1&p=2592017

This wiring diagram may help review what you have.
You likely don't have the mercury switch, but there's another switch just under flywheel above the fuel pump, hooks up just like it. Its main purpose is to keep it from cranking if the throttle to too far opened.

 

[CBGale2]

Re: 1962 SeaKing 40hp

I need you guys to confirm that I didnt screw up. LOL

Last night I put the lower unit gears and all that jazz back together, had to get a new one since the original housing was cracked and everything was rusted out inside. That was a bugger getting the two pieces of the housing together and lined up all while trying to keep that gasket between them to stay put. When attaching the lower unit too the leg do you put any sealant between them?

 

[bktheking]

Re: 1962 SeaKing 40hp

Not usually

 

[restornator]

Re: 1962 SeaKing 40hp

not unless you are trying to fix a leak right before you sell it

 

[tootallofwa]

Re: 1962 SeaKing 40hp

I need you guys to confirm that I didnt screw up. LOL

Last night I put the lower unit gears and all that jazz back together, had to get a new one since the original housing was cracked and everything was rusted out inside. That was a bugger getting the two pieces of the housing together and lined up all while trying to keep that gasket between them to stay put. When attaching the lower unit too the leg do you put any sealant between them?

My book doesn't say any thing about sealant there (only water and exhaust gasses in that section.) It does say to use a new spaghetti seal and silicone on the gear box and bolts.

I see you're missing some wires on your cutout switch.

After you get it together, you'll want to synchronize the throttle to the stator, so the throttle opens at the right time.

Synchronizing

First you must take the flywheel off to see what's going on.

On this model, there is a pointer cast into the block just past the port carb bolt., on top, kind of wedge shaped. Open the throttle so that the line on the stator plate cam, (brass fin kind of thing that the throttle linkage cam follower roller rides on,) lines up with the pointer casting.

The throttle butterfly is supposed to JUST START OPENING at this point. Adjust the throttle butterfly by removing cotter pin, loosening the screw, turn the cam screw to adjust, tighten the screw and replace cotter pin.

This is a really good time to see how it all works. Make sure your throttle
moves the stator from lock to lock and opens the butterfly all the way.
You will have to be in forward gear or the safety switch cam on the stator will limit rotation by the movement of the shift linkage. less limited in reverse and limited to half throttle in neutral.

You're done... put it back together. RRRum

 

[CBGale2]

Re: 1962 SeaKing 40hp

Please tell me I can still use this, some of the thin pieces are cracked and bent out some. I think Im going to throw up, this is lower end #2 (the replacement one), I looked at the other one I have and it has the same cracks, but not as bad. Is this a common thing with these motors? I think Im going to puke.

Also the plate the impeller spins on is that supposed to be perfectly flat. Both units have a "bubble/dent" on them except they are dented in differant directions. And if it supposed to be flat can I straighten it out? One of them is very minor.

 

[CBGale2]

Re: 1962 SeaKing 40hp

Help

 

[bill lewinski]

Re: 1962 SeaKing 40hp

Instead of getting a push button switch for your choke when you go to the
parts store ask for a 'momentary on' switch. This will be a toggle switch that automatically switches to the off position when you let go of it.

 

[F_R]

Re: 1962 SeaKing 40hp

Those blind cavities were full of water when it froze and the expanding ice busted it. Unless there is something that I can't see, it should be ok. Main thing is that it not be broken in such a way as to allow air to get in from the outside. In a previous question concerning the plate, a very slight curvature upward at the center is normal. We aren't talking about ice damage again though, are we?

 

[CBGale2]

Re: 1962 SeaKing 40hp

Wow! Ice did that, I was trying to figure out how, guess that would do it. Thanks F_R.