1963 10hp Evinrude

[bfitz]

Just picked up a 63 10 hp, model 10302D. Looks really good, like barely used. BUT it needs coils. My question is, are the Sierra or Mallory parts as good as the Evinrude parts? I want it to be dependable so a little extra money won't scare me off.
Also, can the 1963 fuel pump handle today's ethanol gas? I'm in NY and everything has ethanol. Is there an update kit or another pump that will work?
One other thing, anybody use the Sierra lower unit seal kits? Are they complete enough for a total reseal?

Thanks for the help.

 

[samo_ott]

Re: 1963 10hp Evinrude

I have several of the 10's and they're good engines. As far as I know the pump will handle whatever. And I use BRP coils but know that others have had success with sierra. I have not tried the sierra LU seals though so no idea there.

 

[OptsyEagle]

Re: 1963 10hp Evinrude

I used a Sierra kit to seal up a 1961 5.5Hp with no problems. They worked fine.

 

[jbjennings]

Re: 1963 10hp Evinrude

From my experience, the sierra coils are fine but the ones made in Germany are supposedly the best, and do look the best. I haven't got enough hours on mine to get a good idea. They're so easy to change, I don't mind trying the sierra. The sierra seal kits are complete and do work, but they're nowhere near as good as the original. Problem is, I don't think they make the original anymore or anyway, I haven't been able to find them. The biggest difference is the propshaft and driveshaft seals aren't nearly as high quality as the original. That being said, if your driveshaft is not grooved badly just below the water pump where the seal rides, and the same is true for the propshaft, you should have no worries and it should last for a long time. I've sealed a couple of those recently and can tell you, if you run into a problem getting the brass bushing out of the recess over the rubber o-ring that seals the shift shaft, just post or check the old posts on that topic and some experts will help you. Since the old prop and driveshaft seals are the best, make sure they need replacing before you change them. The fill and drain plug washers are most often the culprit, then the shift shaft seal, then the drive and prop shaft seals. When you get your prop shaft and drive shaft out, you'll see how good your lower unit really is, and your gears and clutch dog of course. I've found that true marine lower unit lube is best, the cheap stuff from walmart seems to foam up in mine and made me think my lower unit was leaking once when it really wasn't. I think vintageoutboard sells the high-dollar coils from Germany if you're interested.
Good luck,
JBJ

 

[HighTrim]

Re: 1963 10hp Evinrude

I know FR will be glad to hear that you're chaning out the coils, I know he preaches that for those motors, and he def knows what he's talking about. I personally buy the BRP products, but have never heard anything negative about the Sierra brand, except for the impellers.

 

[bfitz]

Re: 1963 10hp Evinrude

Great. I'll take a look at vintageoutboard.
I'm also going to try the local Evinrude dealer for the seals. He had everything I needed for my 7.5 .
And just to say thanks, I learned how to get the shift shaft bushing out on this forum, so thanks to everyone.

Still worried about that fuel pump, but I'll see what happens. Going to change all the fuel lines though, before I even put gas to it.

Thanks again

 

[wbeaton]

Re: 1963 10hp Evinrude

Don't worry about the ethanol. Mix a little fuel stabiliser with your gas everytime for added security.

I've used the Sierra seal kits and they worked fine. I also buy their coils since they are so much cheaper and are believed to be better - or so I'm told.

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: 1963 10hp Evinrude

i think laingsoutboards.com has everything you need, shipping is much less. when you do coils do it all point,condenser, wires, carb kit, impeller. that way you have a dependable motor.

 

[bfitz]

Re: 1963 10hp Evinrude

definitely going to look the carb over.....I'm scared of cork floats..[not even sure if this engine has a cork float].

Thing I'm happiest about is that all the screws and boats come out! and there's no lakes here, this thing must've been a garage queen........

 

[wbeaton]

Re: 1963 10hp Evinrude

...[not even sure if this engine has a cork float]...

It does - unless its already been changed.

 

[bfitz]

Re: 1963 10hp Evinrude

OK, got it running.
My dilemma is it wants 2 full turns out on the idle scew.
I tried to set it to Joe Reeves specification but it would sneeze at idle.
Anybody else run into this? I did clean the carb, replaced the float, all the gaskets, needle/seat, packing washers, pulled the plug out of the top[it was clean in there].
Do they do this, or should I look for a vacuum leak around the crank?

 

[wbeaton]

Re: 1963 10hp Evinrude

Does it run fine at 2 turns? If so, don't worry about it. Its just a starting point. If its not running well then revisit the carb especially the low speed jet and idle circuit. You did remove the welsh plug and packing right?

 

[samo_ott]

Re: 1963 10hp Evinrude

Exactly, as WB said, the initial setup is only the starting point. If you can set it anywhere and it works great then that's the spot for your engine. The needle or seat could be grooved etc, each carb is slightly different.

 

[bfitz]

Re: 1963 10hp Evinrude

OK,
I need some help from the experts. I was talking to a friend who is an outboard mechanic. His opinion was that the crankshaft seals [o rings] were dried out, I bought new carbons and o rings. I destroyed the old carbon [top crank seal] getting it out, the o ring looked passable, a little hard. I broke both of my new carbons trying to push them in with the new o ring.

I have not looked at the lower seal and won't until I fix the top.

I have not run this engine on a boat yet. My thinking is that it should idle before it gets used. New water pump and head gasket.

To review, the engine will run, but it backfires at idle, it also doesn't respond to the idle mix screw.

The plugs are black {Champs}. Spark will jump a spark tester set for points ignition[ the type with screw in or out contact that you insert in the plug wire]
the coils, points, condenser, are new replacement Evinrude parts.

The carb was cleaned, new float, packing washers, replacement Evinrude parts. I pulled out the disc on top, the passage was clean, I put in the new disc.

My question is; do you think the lower crankshaft seals are suspect?

Are there any tricks to installing these carbons?

This engine sat [inside] for years, do you think it could be corrosion on the reeds?

Running 24:1, pump gas.

Should I just put the top seal back together, give a tank of, say, 12:1, and just beat the brains out of it for awhile on the boat?

I appreciate your help and am at a loss right now. But I will fix it, now it is personal.
BF

 

[jbjennings]

Re: 1963 10hp Evinrude

I personally think 12:1 is just too danged much oil. I think you're fine with 24:1. especially since you've already run it a little. the extra oil could even cause carbon buildup under the rings and ruin the powerhead.
As to the carbon seals, I've little experience so can't help there. Try PMing F-R, He KNOWS!
If you're idle adjustment has no effect, then your carb is still dirty or you have an air leak. I'd say an air leak. A handy trick I learned here: Get yourself one of those little propane torches and turn on the gas (don't light it!!) and spray the propane around the intake manifold seals and carb and other likely places for leaks. No, of course you can't check the lower crankseal this way.....I'd think, especially if it's a low hours engine, that your lower crank seal would be good but you never know until you check. I'd try the intake manifold or carb first. If you have a vacuum leak around the manifold or somewhere else and spray propane around the leak, the propane will richen the mixture and you'll hear the motor smooth out and stop lean sneezing.
As to the reeds....they're hardly ever the problem. If you do take them apart, be very careful not to bend 'em even slightly. You'll need new intake seals, too. If it was running, I wouldn't even worry about the reeds.
I don't think you're going to have any success putting gas in it and running the heck out of it. Get it fixed where you KNOW it's fixed and then run it.
If it's not perfect in the tank, I guarantee you it won't run right at the lake. You'll just be wasting your time.
My suggestion, run it and check for air leaks around the intake or carb. recheck your fuel lines for leaks, then if you find nothing wrong, try recleaning that carb. ---If the adjustment is not having an effect, you've got a stopped up passage or vacuum leak. How about the passage on teh side of the bowl? Did you get it clear for SURE??
Good luck but I KNOW you can get it fixed!!!!!
JBJ

 

[bfitz]

Re: 1963 10hp Evinrude

Thanks for the help.
I'm at a standtill until I get new carbons. Dealer's open on Tuesday.
I will definitely look that carburetor over again.

I like the propane diagnosis procedure. I will try that also.

It's such a clean little motor that it's a shame it doesn't run as well as it looks.

But we'll cure that!

 

[bfitz]

Re: 1963 10hp Evinrude

more info.

when I had the head off there was NO carbon build up. I mean none, on either the pistons or the head

 

[bfitz]

Re: 1963 10hp Evinrude backfire

Re: 1963 10hp Evinrude backfire

pulled the powerhead....had to do something while waiting for parts....the lower seals looked ok...but had some oil on the carbon..o ring intact, I poked it with a pick, it seems ok.

Pulled the carb apart again, it was clean but I blew everything out anyway.

Think there could be an ignition problem? Loose ground, something wired wrong?

Did I forget to attach something, are there any tricks to installing these coils?

Thanks for the help

 

[jbjennings]

Re: 1963 10hp Evinrude

A few areas I pay close attn. to after redoing a few----again---and again.
I look at the spark plug wire on both ends to make sure the wire cores are not corroded, if so I cut off about a 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch to get to good wire. I also check the wires for any cracks or scuffing that would cause a short. check to make sure your laminations on the coils are flush with the mounting boss so they won't rub on the flywheel magnet. make sure you clean the points and use some solvent on a piece of paper towel or something so be sure there's not even a fingerprint on 'em. Be sure the pts. aren't burnt, either. If so. resurface or replace 'em. Once I think I've got the ignition right, I like to put the flywheel on loosely, then hold a plug with one hand and turn the flywheel with the other 1 turn as fast as you can turn it by hand. Of course you won't be able to turn it fast but if the ignition is good, it will pop you a little on even a half turn. It won't really hurt turning it by hand but will knock the crap out of you if you turn it with the recoil starter, so don't try that. Kind of a goofy method but works for me.
One more thing---you can't tell if the carb is clean enough by looking at it
Good luck--I hate waiting for parts!
JBJ