1963 10HP Sportwin - water in lower unit oil

[John_S]

My son and friend picked-up an aluminum 14' for a very good deal. I'd thought I'd give them my old Sportwin that was moth-balled about 6 years ago. Engine popped on 2nd pull, and was running by 10th pull. Ran very well, and did a decarb on it. Seems to idle down fine in the tank. I went to change the lower unit oil and found white foamy oil. Definitly water.

I did some seaching in this forum and found the most common cause is not replacing the gasket on the fill screws. Well, I'll try that, but that would be too easy and lucky for me. Assuming that is not it, is a seal kit the next thing? On this outboard it looks like this does split along the propeller shaft. Unlike new outboards, can a seal kit be put in without special tools? And given the age, where is the best place to order these from?

Its been awhile, and haven't found my old manual yet, would like to confirm my old memory:

- Lower unit oil takes a special type C
- Fuel bowl while running does not stay filled (1/4 or less) is normal
- gas/oil mix ratio is 24:1
- are common parts, impeller, carb kit, fuel pump kit, points/condensor, still available?

Thanks for any help.

PS: It was nice to see an ole engine fire back up, like it was put away a couple of months ago.

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: 1963 10HP Sportwin - water in lower unit oil

your memory is good. laingsoutboards.com has everything you need. go ahead and change the impeller also. probably the spagetti seal gone bad. new OEM manual at outboardbooks.com

 

[wbeaton]

Re: 1963 10HP Sportwin - water in lower unit oil

Yes to all your questions. Any standard 80/90 outboard lower unit oil will work fine.

The seal kit is available online from some places or you can get the parts from your local OMC/BRP dealer. Resealing the skeg (split at the prop shaft) is easy. Takes a spaghetti seal and some blue Permatex silicone gasket maker. There is also an o-ring on the prop shaft head that is easy to change. Now the seals for the prop, drive and shift shafts are a pain to replace, but will likely need it. After the vent screw seals, I find the shift shaft seal is the next to go.

 

[F_R]

Re: 1963 10HP Sportwin - water in lower unit oil

The shift rod seal is most often ignored and a very likely leakage point. While you are at it, remove the gearcase and do it right. Replace all seals and the water pump. They have the seal kit and pump impeller right here at iboats.

 

[John_S]

Re: 1963 10HP Sportwin - water in lower unit oil

Thanks for the info, guys. I refilled it, for now, with outboard 80/90 gear oil. I didn't find any "C" oil around. Its probably up to camp. I need to do a compression check, before investing in manuals and parts. What would be good readings on this engine?

 

[wbeaton]

Re: 1963 10HP Sportwin - water in lower unit oil

The oil you chose is probably type-c, but not marked.

Compression can vary. Over 100 psi is great. Probably over 80 psi is fine. Under that, who knows. I have smaller OMC's with compression in the 60's that work fine.

Also, I meant the shift shaft seal is usually the one to go after the vent screw seals. I haven't had many prop shaft seals fail. But do them all since your in there. No sense doing a half-a** job.