1963 Merc 110

[bimmerbit_93]

I had a posting a few weeks ago and now I can't find it. Sorry for redoing this. The motor is a 9.8 hp, Merc 110. Compression, spark and all are good. Leak down test was only 2% at TDC. The problem is that when I choke it, the carb leaks gas out the throat. I have had the carb apart 3 times rebuilding it and checking the float and inlet needle and seat. I also rebuilt the fuel pump. It will start when choked but will only run for a few seconds. Then with the choke open, it will start but only run for a few seconds. My last thread, someone mentioned (can't remember who) to check the reeds with the carb off. I looked up in there. This model has a round reed block around the crank. All I can see is what looks like maybe the side of the reed block. When I turn the crank, it doesn't turn. Am I looking at the reed block and if so shouldn't it be turning with the crank?

 

[coolguy147]

Re: 1963 Merc 110

I had a posting a few weeks ago and now I can't find it. Sorry for redoing this. The motor is a 9.8 hp, Merc 110. Compression, spark and all are good. Leak down test was only 2% at TDC. The problem is that when I choke it, the carb leaks gas out the throat. I have had the carb apart 3 times rebuilding it and checking the float and inlet needle and seat. I also rebuilt the fuel pump. It will start when choked but will only run for a few seconds. Then with the choke open, it will start but only run for a few seconds. My last thread, someone mentioned (can't remember who) to check the reeds with the carb off. I looked up in there. This model has a round reed block around the crank. All I can see is what looks like maybe the side of the reed block. When I turn the crank, it doesn't turn. Am I looking at the reed block and if so shouldn't it be turning with the crank?

try link and syncing make sure at full throttle the butterfly is wide open

 

[green4themoney]

Re: 1963 Merc 110

the reed block is between bot cylinders, if you take the carb off, you should be looking directly into the reed case... there should be a single bolt to the right of your carb on the crankcase cover that is the bolt that holds your reed block in place, but it sounds like you have stuck reeds, unfortunately you are going to have to tear into the engine to change them or try spraying a little carb ccleaner into the reed case when your engine runs for a little bit (sometimes they can get a little gummy) but that sounds like it might be your problem, you have stuck reeds

 

[bimmerbit_93]

Re: 1963 Merc 110

Thanks for both of your replies. I have the carb apart again. A local boat repair mechanic suggested the idol series might be plugged so I'm soaking the carb and will blow it out tomorrow. I have to wait for a carb kit. No one locally has one in stock. He also mentioned checking the sych, so I am going to do that when I can get the carb back on. I hope it isn't the reeds, but that will be the next thing if all else fails. When I get done, I'll let you know how it comes out.

 

[green4themoney]

Re: 1963 Merc 110

lets hope its not your reeds, also make sure yto adjust your low speed needle, its a flat head screw, what you do to adjust is screw it it untill it seats itself, then back it out 1 to 1 and a half turns, thats the standard set for it, if you follow all these procedures and still no performance, spray some 50:1 directly into the barell of the carb and if you still dont get anything your unfortunately most likely looking at stuck reed valves, that is if you have good spark and all.

wow, if you get that motor running those are very good engines... i have a 1970 myself and i love it!

 

[bimmerbit_93]

Re: 1963 Merc 110

Thanks for all of your suggestions. I think its only right to let you know my progress after your good enough to help.

Looks like I won't have to deal with reeds. I rebuilt it again and paid special attention to blowing out the idle series holes and put a different float needle with a new kit by Sierra. It has a resilient needle instead of the brass one that came with the kit from Quicksilver. I set the idle screw at 3/4 turn (per Sierra instr.) instead of 1 1/2 like the Seloc manual calls for. It took a little priming this time but once it started it ran stayed running and is pretty smooth. Probably need to fine tune the idle.

The only problem now is that I'm still not getting much water out the pee hole, very little in fact and hardly any at idle. After about 3-4 minutes the head is too hot to hold your hand on. I've put a new impeller on it and taken the power head off to clean all the passages. The only thing I know to do is take the lower half off again and check to make sure the pin is in the slot of the impeller, make sure it is turning.
Any suggestions on that will be appreciated also.

 

[green4themoney]

Re: 1963 Merc 110

make sure your water tube seal (sits in the cylinder of the pump housing) is intact and in good condition, heres a few tests you can run to make sure everything is functioning properly via youtube vid, posted below. also make sure your passage from water intake to pump is clear as well, and when you watch these tests, when you see buddy running water up his block, make sure it doesnt just come cascading down the driveshaft housing right away cause it should fill up the block first, if this happens and it wont fill up the block or exit the pee hole, your upper seal is gone, if it pushes water up through the block but isnt coming out too well you most likely have a block somewhere in the water passages, also make sure your water exit hose from the top of the block to exterior of the motor is clear, sometimes the mud dabbers get in there... also make sure your impeller is set with your driveshaft spinning clockwise, and check condition of your pump housing make sure all is clear

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gSWCV2mJz8Q

 

[bimmerbit_93]

Re: 1963 Merc 110

Well its been over a month now, but I thought it proper consideration to let you guys know how this came out.
The problem with staying running was solved by rebuilding the carb again, letting is soak in carb cleaner for a couple of days, then reassembling it. It now runs like a new motor.
The water pump problem was also solved by reinstalling a new impeller. The first one I installed was already ruined. I learned that you have to be really careful that it is completely seated in the pump housing before putting the plate on and bolting her down. Hold it up to the light to make sure the impeller is completely seated. If not tap on the impeller next to the shaft until it is. Now it pumps water great.
Thanks for the time and I hope this helps anyone in the future with similar problems.