1963 Starcraft Jet restoration

edgepa

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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May 30, 2011
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93
Coach Dave, I told my son the exact same thing once when he has complaining while we moving stone for a landscaping project. He looked at me and said, "wait, we could pay someone to do this?" Feeling that he was missing the point, I went on to say the only way to make that kind of money he would need to great in school. He was about 13 at the time. He never got another B in school, graduated second in his class, and now is majoring in chemical engineering.

Luckily his brother is a big help with my projects.
 

Coach Dave

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Apr 3, 2014
Messages
117
Hey.......I got a question......might be stupid, but as I tell my boy - no such thing. Remember, this is my 1st boat build.

When I frame out my supports for the front casting deck, should I build the floor to be parallel with the top of the gunnels? It ain't like you can use a level on these things.

I guess what I'm really asking is.....If I build my front casting deck floor parallel to the top of the gunnels, will it be somewhat level when standing on it while the boat is at rest on the water? I understand while underway, there will be a tilt up front, but that's not when any one will be up there. It's just for fishing while anchored, drifting, of using the trolling motor. My plan right now is to just measure down an equal number of inches from the top of gunnels and frame my floor to that line.
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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What you're describing is what I did with the rear casting deck in my SS and it worked out just fine for being level.
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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I went out to the garage and measure down from the top of my SS gunnels to the row of solid rivets that hold the front casting deck angle AL in place through the hull. The row is like 4 or 5 feet long and I measured from the top of the gunnel to the first and last rivet in the row and the measurement was exactly the same (17") So it looks like that's how SC did their measurements too from the top of the gunnel down. :happy:
 

Coach Dave

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Apr 3, 2014
Messages
117
No Title

Yeah, I keep looking at the original 1963 brochure pictures I included in my 1st post, and the caps up front look fairly level to the water. I guess I was just looking for some reassurance. Thanks.
 

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Coach Dave

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Apr 3, 2014
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So my tubes (caulking gun tubes) of 5200 say I gotta use it all up within 24 hours of breaking the seals. Is that true? I don't see myself eating a whole tube in one sitting. If I tape it up or otherwise seal up both ends real good after using some of it can the rest be saved? If so, for how long? Getting close to installing my through hulls and what not. I guess I could install everything that will stay accessible and 5200 them all at once if it is true. Thanks in advance - 1st time I've used this stuff. The cynic in me says it's just a way for them to sell more 5200 - like rinse and repeat on the shampoo bottles - who does that?
 

Dabbler_E

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Apr 20, 2009
Messages
338
Somebody on here indicated that they bagged the tube and stuck it in the freezer between uses. Need to take it out ahead of time to thaw before use, but at least you aren't stuck using it all in one sitting.
 

Watermann

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So far I've been able to keep the 5200 in construction tubes for 3 years after opening. Cut the tip, use, push a long screw or other object down to where it goes into the main body of 5200 and then wrap with tape to seal, I use frog tape. Then store in the fridge not freezer still in the caulk gun. I have a beverage fridge in my garage and when I'm going to use the 5200 I pull it out a while before hand so it warms up making it easier to dispense.
 

Coach Dave

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Apr 3, 2014
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Thanks guys. I figured there was a way. I do something similar when painting the house. Bag your wet brush or roller, put it in the fridge, and continue painting the next day. I hate cleaning brushes and rollers.
 

Coach Dave

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Apr 3, 2014
Messages
117
Next Question(s):

Here's my motor - 2000 Suzuki DT25C 25 HP remote short shaft:

IMG_20170511_1509429741_zpsadmuem5e.jpg
Here's my hull shape, flat from stern to about 2/3s of the way forward:
IMG_20170409_125809_zpsxqlbnizi.jpg
Would one of these
000794e5-b535-4c69-ac4d-1ae50b1f7cf0_1.b4105ad865bb73410bb057e5a9e0e1dd.jpeg
Or a set of these - the automatic ones - 235 lb me on one side and 100 lb boy on the other underway
sltmontage-withseal-500px_0.jpg
Here's the lake I'll be on a MAJORITY of the time - it's in my backyard:
lakeMosquito (1).jpg
It's about 20 miles long, and the dark shaded part is an off limits game reserve. The other lakes we'd hit are similar sizes - all reservoirs. As you can see, I don't need to go 50 MPH+ on these lakes to hit any fishing spot. I just wanna get on plane quick, up to speed quick, and no listing with me driving on the starboard side.

Would a hydrofoil or auto trim tabs be worth it? Would there be any discernible performance improvement getting on plane and/or listing with the weight differential between the boy & I or when I'm alone?
 

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Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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The fin thing for the motor won't help with listing due to weight placement. Battery and fuel location to counter balance will surely help. The drag of tabs might not be a very good idea either with only a 25 HP motor as you're barely going to be above plane speed. That boat needs probably a 40 HP motor.
 

Coach Dave

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Apr 3, 2014
Messages
117
I get that. And not to argue, 'cause you've surely forgotten more about boats and outboards than I'll certainly learn in the foreseeable future. But that's why I ask questions - to a fault sometimes. The boat was originally rated for 50 HP. That was in 1963. My motor is a 2000 model. This boat is like REALLY light. I can lift it off the trailer with one hand. If I'm reading correctly, and I am dubious on that, my 2000 25 HP would rate as a higher HP engine back in 1963. Granted, we're only talking about a 25 HP, so any % difference wouldn't be great. Mines also a 3 cyl. 25 HP, where some others are 2 cyl. And there's no replacement for displacement. Also lower RPMs to achieve rated HP.

Having said all that, most of what I just wrote is me justifying not being able to pass up a deal when I see one. I basically bumped up 10 HP, 1 cyl, and 10 model years for $150. And I have a set of controls for an older Johnson if I ever build my river boat. I'll make money on this motor if I wanna upgrade.

Now, my main priority was/is to balance performance and economy. I'm not interested in owning a fishing boat that's gonna cost me $40-$50 dollars in gas every time I take it out for a day. And I also don't want to have to travel half way across the lake before I get on plane. And I know that I'm gonna full throttle her more than a few times a day just for kicks.

I'll video my christening and maiden voyage. Trust me, if I'm riding bow high for 100 yds before getting on plane and/or up to speed, I'll be upgrading motors right quick. But I truly believe I'll hit mid - high 20 MPH - and that's plenty fast enough for what this boat was built for. I hope I'm right. Stay tuned.

And Thanks every one and this forum for all the help. First time I've done this and first time I've used many of the products involved.
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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Sure the empty hull is very light on your Jet but keep in mind weight adds up quick when you start putting everything back inside the boat. I'll be looking forward to seeing her back on the waves again.
 

Coach Dave

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Apr 3, 2014
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Took about a week off. My ENTIRE body mutinied. Had to rest up and heal a bit. Well........I needed a cash infusion also.

BUT...I did get 2 coats of epoxy on my new transom. It is now ready for install. Ordered my Nautolex today. I got the shark grey. Should go with the seats pretty well & hide the grime. I think this is going on top of my gunnels also. Maybe along the interior sides also. I bought a 6' X 18' piece.
753039.jpg seat_zps6rdncefl.png
Also got my beater pickup running like a champ again. God I LOVE old trucks. Going to get my plywood for the floors today. I'm getting 1/2" ACX 5 ply. It's 44 lbs
/sheet. All my floor supports are 12" apart, so the 1/2 5 ply should be just fine and save me at least 10 lbs/sheet vs 5/8" 5 ply BCX. Whilst my epoxy cures on my plywood, I'll be running my plumbing for the live well and building the front casting deck.
 

Dabbler_E

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Apr 20, 2009
Messages
338
Took about a week off. My ENTIRE body mutinied. Had to rest up and heal a bit. Well........I needed a cash infusion also.
.

Take it easy on yourself! One of the first things I learned in my current resto is that my lower back is REALLY unhappy with me taking the quick way out of the boat by jumping off the gunwales. Funny how that sort of activity never used to bother me..... must be gravity is getting stronger.
 

Coach Dave

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Apr 3, 2014
Messages
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It's always that 2nd day. If I put in a full day on Sunday, Monday I'm feeling fairly good, but Tuesday I experience what dying must feel like. I'm ready for hospice. Miserable.
 

Coach Dave

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Apr 3, 2014
Messages
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It's always that 2nd day. If I put in a full day on Sunday, Monday I'm feeling fairly good, but Tuesday I experience what dying must feel like. I'm ready for hospice. Miserable.
 

Coach Dave

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Apr 3, 2014
Messages
117
I figure yinz all have been calling police stations, jails, hospitals, and checking milk cartons trying to figuring out what happened to me. Well.......I've been working on it. It is taking a LOT longer than I thought it would. But, I have cut down the hours per day I work........If I work too long, I'm worthless at work the next day or two, and with this heat we've had, you start making mistakes, having to do it over, and ruining material if you don't hang up the tools when you "hit the wall". Any way, here's my progress - slow and steady progress be it may.......

I finished the rear deck framing. I had to do that before starting the cockpit floor. The larger top opening on right is for 6 Gallon fuel tank, the left back corner opening is for battery, the front left opening is for storage, and the center face opening will hold Plano boxes that you can slide out individually:
IMG_20170725_200823_zps13n8zlhi.jpg
For the front left storage opening, you can see I found a plastic storage container that fit just about perfect to slip in the opening. It is a standard size container, so if need be, I can replace it if it cracks or breaks. You can see the plywood floor underneath it I put foam underneath the plwood:
IMG_20170725_200912_zpsll03zbku.jpg
The battery and fuel compartment plywood floors got 1/2" neoprene pads glued on top of floor. And of course foam underneath:
IMG_20170725_200846_zpsrivfl6zz.jpg IMG_20170725_200902_zpsmm27wnrn.jpg
Next I got my 1/2" 5 ply ACX cockpit floors cut. The width is like 52", and it is 6' long. So I had to do it in 2 pieces as plywood is only 4' X 8'. Underneath where my cockpit seats will go, I glued a 3/4" piece of ACX plywood the full width of floor that fits snuggly between the floor joists to support my seat mounts.
IMG_20170603_202518_zpsinolhcdd.jpg
I also got my 3/4" ACX bow piece cut:
IMG_20170725_201133_zpsnp9vilaf.jpg
After dry fitting floors, I cut and assembled my plywood gunnel supports and side panels. The sides are 1/4" ACX, and the gunnel supports that will fit underneath the aluminum existing gunnel tops are 1/2" ACX. It took quite a bit of fitting, trimming, sanding, refitting, etc., but they fit PERFECT - NO gaps between the bottom of side panels and floor, and they sit flush and tight underneath the aluminum gunnel tops:
IMG_20170725_201251_zpslch8cvvm.jpg
Of course EVERY piece of plywood got 2 coats of 2 part epoxy, paying extra attention to the edges:
IMG_20170415_132900_zpszj28op6w.jpg
Next I ran my plumbing for the live well that will be under the front casting deck. And I used the GOOD hose. I also bit the bullet and drilled the hole through the bottom of the boat for my water pickup using 3M 5200 of course. Oh, one more thing......Remember I put center supports underneath my 1" aluminum square tube floor "joists"? After much consternation, I added 2 more supports to each "joist" midway between center and sides as seen in picture. It's REALLY solid now. Also, you'll see I fabricated some L bracket out of leftover gunnel I trimmed and ran it along the sides with rivets for more stability. My floor is rock solid :
IMG_20170725_201002_zpsybr6r5hj.jpg IMG_20170725_201352%201_zpsze8zg1xo.jpg 419NDQyJpcL_zpsxwmhnssp.jpg IMG_20170725_200926_zpsxxatsjmy.jpg
Next I put the Nautolex Sharkskin on my flooring. I used 3M 90 spray adhesive. After reading some posts about bubbles and other difficulties, I was a bit nervous with this. I used to be a professional wall paper hanger back in the day, so I thought the skills would transfer. I laid the plywood and Nautolex side by side, sprayed 2 coats of 3M 90 on both, and with the 90 degree temps it was ready immediately. I picked up the plywood, lined it up on the Nautolex, and did a controlled flop down onto the Nautolex. Turned it over, smoothed it from the center out, then used a plastic spreader for epoxy to scrape it flat (I went to a piece of wood later, 'cause the friction from the Nautolex actually melted and deformed the scraper). Flipped it over again, cut and trimmed my corners, and stainless steel stapled the hell out of the bottom side edges. NOT ONE BUBBLE!!:
IMG_20170725_201425_zpsmsmacf2b.jpg IMG_20170725_201036_zpsnr9vqg5m.jpg
Then foamed my floor and dry fitted flooring again. IT IS ROCK SOLID. I picked up a pvc divider trim to go in the seam between the 2 pieces of plywood flooring. There's a lot of foam. I was gonna have some in floor storage originally, but after measuring, by the time I framed it out I would only have barely 2" of space to work with underneath and not much width when you factor in seat positions. But I got A LOT of foam. You can see I took a pool noodle, cut it in sections, slit it, and wiggled it over my live well hose to protect it from rubbing against my floor supports. It also suspends it off the bottom of the boat:
IMG_20170726_152955_zpsm7zrgiqe.jpg IMG_20170726_155715_zpsaytwa8re.jpg V-9_zps1kl6hdtb.jpg

That's about it for now. I do have my back casting deck flooring and hatches cut, fit, and sealed. That's next on my list. Stay tuned, and sorry for the lapse in posting.
 

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Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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That's quite the update Dave, nice work on the Jet mods to make her more solid. :thumb:

Form what I see in the pics is you aft casting deck really going to be about the same height as the gunnels?
 

Coach Dave

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Apr 3, 2014
Messages
117
Thanks man. Been a little lackadaisical with the posting. Adding those extra 2 vertical supports to each "joist" (what's the nautical term for those?) REALLY made a huge difference. Another example of doing something you dreaded doing, but was WAY worth it in the end, and you end up sooooooo glad you did it. Aft deck is roughly 2" below top of gunnel tops (it tapers a bit towards transom). If you look at the pic of my dry fit of side panels, you can see the height of the side panel above the aft deck. One thing I am struggling with right now is rod storage. Can't find the room. Boat's not long enough :grumpy:. Starboard side panel will eventually have a cutout to access control cables, steering cables, and electrical wiring. Once I do that I can see if there is enough depth to do same on the port side for rod storage. If not, I may just do some surface mount rod holders on port side. I don't want to build a box for rod storage on port side like you see on some boats. I don't wanna lose the floor space. That's why I cut my gunnels down to 2" - that picked me up 6 sq ft of floor space alone. Either way, I will have rocket launchers somewhere to keep rods out of the way and safe.IMG_20170725_201251_zpslch8cvvm.jpg
 

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