1964 lightwin carb issues

scorpio65

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Aug 31, 2016
Messages
46
Cap vent works fine.... Removed and replaced tank filter with new fuel line and inline filter in the beginning.
 

Joe Reeves

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
13,262
Paid particular attention to slow and main jet orifices with small wire. It runs good from slow idle to half throttle.I can't get it to run over 60%....keeps stalling out.

Yeah, I know that you've looked at the carburetor a zillion times BUT the above explanation indicates that the brass high speed jet located horizontally in the bottom center of the float chamber (way in back of that drain screw) is still partially clogged, fouled, gummed.

The ID of that high speed orifice is .029. If you're cleaning it in place with a wire smaller then that diameter, which is a normal thing to do, you may be missing some of the restriction. Best to remove the jet to clean it properly.

Should you need to replace it... the original part number is 310758 but it is superseded up to part number 330142. It will be marked, imprinted on its side the number 29D indicating its ID of .029.

NOTE: The 1964 3hp does not have a slow speed orifice... it had a adjustable slow speed needle valve and is to be adjusted as follows:

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(Carburetor Adjustment - Single S/S Adjustable Needle Valve)
(J. Reeves)

Initial setting is: Slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running.

Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

When you have finished the above adjustment, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.
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oldboat1

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Apr 3, 2002
Messages
9,612
Do you disassemble the carb and soak top/bottom/metal parts in solvent? I use lacquer thinner, but your call — need something strong enough to cut dried-on fuel varnish. Follow that with careful wire probing, then spraying with carb cleaner using the plastic nozzle. You need to determine whether stalling above idle is due to flooding or lean running. If you are getting hesitation at throttle up, it’s typically too rich a mix with the idle speed needle, in my experience. (Throttle-up is one of the tests for proper idle speed needle setting.) Too lean usually results in some lean sneezing.

When you have the domed fitting off, you can see the opening for the needle in the carb body. That opening/orifice can be buggered up by less-that-careful fitting of the needle, or by creative reaming by a PO. Additionally, cranking the brass needle in too tightly can leave a broken tip jammed in the hole — something you can usually see by looking in there with that domed expansion fitting removed.

Do a compression check and post the numbers. If they are close between cylinders (10 or 15% of each other), it’s probably not the problem.
 
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