1965 WARDS 14ft Aluminum V-Hull boat and adding a floor, could this method work?

[radgumbo]

Re: 1965 WARDS 14ft Aluminum V-Hull boat and adding a floor, could this method work?

Here we go...still learning how to navigate the site. Hope not to have the same trouble once I'm on the water.

 

[Bob_VT]

Re: 1965 WARDS 14ft Aluminum V-Hull boat and adding a floor, could this method work?

That deck is nice but.....it will raise the center of gravity and make the boat more tippy......

 

[radgumbo]

Re: 1965 WARDS 14ft Aluminum V-Hull boat and adding a floor, could this method work?

That boat is almost identical to mine. I wonder if I could build a floor system similar to this one but allow it to concave with the shape of the floor. The center could be flat and toward the sides conform more to the boat's shape. I'm still trying to figure a way to get a floor in there and keep it as low and light as possible. Maybe I'll just clean this thing up and sell it, then go buy my Boston Whaler!

 

[radgumbo]

Re: 1965 WARDS 14ft Aluminum V-Hull boat and adding a floor, could this method work?

Hi Davem3, Using your table here's my measurements:

GENERAL SPECIFICATIONS *radgumbo
Center Line : (14'-6") 14’ 1’’
Beam : (58") 50”
Chine Width : (45")
Max. Depth : (21") Bow Depth: 22”
Approx. Draft : (13") Center Depth: 17”
Transom Height : (15") 15”
Approx. Weight : (150 lb.) 142 lb.
--------------------------------------
NMMA (USA)
Max. H.P. cap. : 12 kW (15 H.P.)
Max. weight cap. : (750 lb.)
Max. person cap. : 4
Max. weight person cap. : (548 lb.)
ALUMINUM THICKNESS
Bottom : (.051")
Side : (.051")




* From what I’ve found through a link I was given to some StarCraft brochures, the specifications are very close to a 1965 14’ StarCraft “Sea Scamp”. The Sea Scamp has 3 wooden seats, 4 persons, Capacity H.P. is 18 and recommended lbs. is 700. The “Sea Scamp” specs are only different for: Beam-53”, Center Depth-18”, Transom Width-45” and Transom Depth-16”. That’s pretty close and my measurements are approximate anyway.

I'm sure that Montgomery Wards "Sea king" models differed a little bit, but I wouldn't think StarCraft would do to much retooling to supply MW with their boats.

 

[radgumbo]

Re: 1965 WARDS 14ft Aluminum V-Hull boat and adding a floor, could this method work?

Ok...now that I've pretty much convinced myself that I have a Montgomery Wards "Sea King" boat that is nearly identical to StarCrafts "Sea Scamp" I can ascertain that I should be able to remove the one bench seat in front of the tiller. Both of the Sea Scamp models (12' & 14") came with 3 wooden seats. The question is now, will I have to reposition all of my remaining bench seats to average out the structural support? My boat tapers going from 50" at the beam to 47" at the transom. Just looking at the area where the bench would be removed it appears that I could leave everything as is. What could I do to reinforce the sides just as a precaution?

If, I add foam under the flooring I'll end up gaining buoyancy even after removing the seat. Ok, I'm open to ideas!

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: 1965 WARDS 14ft Aluminum V-Hull boat and adding a floor, could this method work?

I'm not sure it'd be a good idea to remove the seats & foam based on having found a similar boat. W/out the naval architecture drawings showing that the 3bench model is built out of the same hull (material thickness, bracing & re-enforcements, ribs, gunwale construction & attachment, rivets: size, number & placement, transom & it's connection to the stern), and matches yours in most cases, it may radically alter the handling properties of your boat.

Of course, if you stay in smaller, calm flat water lakes & ponds, rarely have other boaters nearby, and stay under the 18hp rating, you may find it's structurally sound to do either of those mods (foam & seat removal).

Removing the seat appears to mean having several rivets to fill or replace along the edge of a rib where the bench attaches to the bottom of the hull. To remove the 1, & reposition the other 2 to better space them out, and attempt to maintain the center of bouyancy, there are now lots of removed rivet holes to deal w/ and a bunch of new thru hull rivets to install. Additionally, the bench support that is riveted to the hull seems to change it's bottom edge shape to match the contour of the hull where it is currently attached. Move the bench, & you'll need to remake new correctly contoured support pieces for the 2 benches you move. Seems like a whole lot of work for a 14' semi-v boat.

I'd think seriously of using it as much as you can basically the way it is. Perhaps extremely cleaned up & looking better, w/ minimal expenses, effort or time, and put it on the water, w/ a for sale sign on it while not in use or sitting at the dock. Then start your search for a 14' 3 bench model, with a great, less questionable motor (overheating problem as I remember). I'd be surprised if you make it to fall this year w/out finding a rig that suits you & your purposes much better. This is essentially how many of us end up w/ many parts & pieces of boats & motors, and more then 1 boat project. I bought the Jet because it fit what I thought I wanted, almost usable as is, w/ working motor & trailer (ok, a barely~kind of working trailer), all at a price I thought appropriate. But it seems to be a less then perfect fit, I will still get it in the water & in use, as quick & as safely as I can. I will probably let it go for what I need to get to justify another project, which isn't much, but that project is on hold until the Jet is in the water again.

But it is of course your boat, and you may build & change it as you see fit to suit your needs.

So all of that ^^^ is just IMHO..... Anyway you finish it, enjoy the project & the fruits of your labor.....

Have a great bottom half of the week....

 

[jigngrub]

Re: 1965 WARDS 14ft Aluminum V-Hull boat and adding a floor, could this method work?

I agree with JBCurt.

Instead of trying to make something out of your boat it isn't intended for, fix it up nice and sell it... then use that money toward a boat that more suits your needs and desires.

Altering the structure on your boat isn't a good idea if you're planning to sell it soon anyway, that just means some poor schlob is going to have to deal with the problems it causes somewhere down the road. Problems like loosened rivets and seams and hull cracks. This stuff doesn't happen right away, it takes 3-5 years for the stresses to wear on the boat... that's why a lot of people think they can get away with doing stuff like this. They buy a small boat and take a bench out and they're happy with it for a little while until they realize "Hey! It's still a small boat", then they sell it before stuff starts going wrong with it and someone down the line ends up trying to fix it.

Here's a tip for you, let the next boat you buy be a wide boat. The wider the better, wide boats are more stable and have more room = comfort!

 

[Davem3]

Re: 1965 WARDS 14ft Aluminum V-Hull boat and adding a floor, could this method work?

I agree with JBCurt.

Instead of trying to make something out of your boat it isn't intended for, fix it up nice and sell it... then use that money toward a boat that more suits your needs and desires.

Altering the structure on your boat isn't a good idea if you're planning to sell it soon anyway, that just means some poor schlob is going to have to deal with the problems it causes somewhere down the road. Problems like loosened rivets and seams and hull cracks. This stuff doesn't happen right away, it takes 3-5 years for the stresses to wear on the boat... that's why a lot of people think they can get away with doing stuff like this. They buy a small boat and take a bench out and they're happy with it for a little while until they realize "Hey! It's still a small boat", then they sell it before stuff starts going wrong with it and someone down the line ends up trying to fix it.

Here's a tip for you, let the next boat you buy be a wide boat. The wider the better, wide boats are more stable and have more room = comfort!

agree X2.........

wider is much better, both in stability and weight capacity...........

plus, think of this for a sec, okay you do a awesome project, it comes out looking Killer, and in say a year or so, go to sell it and go bigger................

Sad to say, all the work we do on our boats here ( and Jasoutside can testify to this along with others) , you will have a hard to impossible time to really sell it for what you paid for it, plus all the time and money you put in to make it look this way................

On the other hand, if you plan to keep it forever, or until the boat starts to give you carp, for the structural changes..........

well then go for it.

My only suggestion is to have a friend, who is a engineer or such ( real one, not a backyard wannabe) give you some ideas on how to accomplish it and yet keep the integrity and stability of the boat intact????

If it is a Starcraft made by Montgomery Ward boat, damn that is a serious PLUS!!!!!!!

SC's are awesome boats, and you and Jason should chat, he does KILLER restorations on SC boats.............

 

[radgumbo]

Re: 1965 WARDS 14ft Aluminum V-Hull boat and adding a floor, could this method work?

Thanks everyone,

That's why I'm asking you guys and listening. You're absolutely right! My plans have been to restore the boat to excellent condition and sell it and get a Boston Whaler. I'd hate to do something that someone else will have to deal with if it goes wrong. I can do a few mods like floor sections and maybe a storage platform up at the bow and do no structural changes to the boat. I have already decided that any floor system will be removable. I certainly don't want to pimp-out this boat. If this was a '64 Mustang we'd only be talking "all original" and no mods... but, still...I hate jumping all those benches.

Ok, now that's settled I'm still trying to design a light weight floor system that will be low profile, removable and light weight. I'd like it carpeted but, might go with something wooden similar to the one I posted earlier. I could build it cheaply and spend a little extra time & money on epoxy resin to seal it up pretty good. If it only lasts a few years...well, the guy I sell the boat to can decide what to do next.

BTW, I befriended a 15 year old kid from Maryland's eastern shore through one of these boating sites. He's a Boston Whaler restorer. Showroom quality restorations. His family owned one of the largest east coast Marinas and his Grandfather came up with a way to dry out the water logged foam in old Boston Whalers. As a matter of fact, his Grandfather invented the chemicals in which to do the foam drying process. That's a pretty poor explanation of what the actual process is but, I do know that the foam can be compromised if water gets thru the glass on BW's. The point is, I have a go to guy when I get to go looking for my BW.

I'm going to order the Gluvit & Steelflex...so, where should I get it? I've found Gluvit on eBay and Steelflex at MarineTek. Does anyone sell it cheaper? Let me know & thanks again...everyone!'

Davem3...I'm positive mine is made by StarCraft. I'm not 100% positive what year but, from what I've learned by comparison it's probably 1965 or earlier...I'm thinking '60-64. Of course, they were produced for MW under the Sea King brand name but, photo comparison's to StarCraft leave little doubt it's a Sea Scamp repackaged. Maybe the fourth seat was a modification they offered MW because I have not found a 4 seat Sea Scamp yet, they all seem to be 3 seats...even the 12' version.

Info is limited but, I know a lot more than I did 3 days ago!

 

[Davem3]

Re: 1965 WARDS 14ft Aluminum V-Hull boat and adding a floor, could this method work?

Radgumbo, the pic in post #41 is perfect!!!!
now what you do is cut it in 3 sections kinda like this

port side of boat
------------------
------------------ port section
------------------
section
------------------
------------------
------------------ center section
------------------
------------------
section
-----------------
----------------- starboard section
-----------------
starboard of boat

then it will follow the contours of the boat, NOT raising the level of the floor and keeping the boat stable.

i used 3/4' X 4" pine wood for the runners and 3/4" X 2" for the cross sections underneath to lock it all together ...........

trying to get a picture up ............

dave

 

[Davem3]

Re: 1965 WARDS 14ft Aluminum V-Hull boat and adding a floor, could this method work?

okay here we go .....................
you will see the different section, for fore, midship and aft.

the 2 smaller boards are at the transom, one for the battery, one for the gas.........the other six go midship and forward............ extreme bow of the boat, i did not bother, the angle was too steep and i will never ever stand up there.

i only have 3 seats in mine, therefore only 3 sections..............


I LOVE the new oak transom, i finally got the 5th coat on today, i am going to mount a brass plate dead center, so when i attach the motor, it will never be on the wood itself........... more pics tomorrow

 

[Davem3]

Re: 1965 WARDS 14ft Aluminum V-Hull boat and adding a floor, could this method work?

god i wish i lived closer to you, would be there in .002 seconds to help out

 

[Bob_VT]

Re: 1965 WARDS 14ft Aluminum V-Hull boat and adding a floor, could this method work?

is that red oak??? or white oak???

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: 1965 WARDS 14ft Aluminum V-Hull boat and adding a floor, could this method work?

It seems to be red, hope its white.... And there's a few coats on the back, not just the front.. Interesting...

 

[Davem3]

Re: 1965 WARDS 14ft Aluminum V-Hull boat and adding a floor, could this method work?

the transom is White Oak, you do not even want to know what i paid for 2 sheets of that :facepalm:

after all is said and done, i will etch the back and bring her back to Battleship grey

 

[Davem3]

Re: 1965 WARDS 14ft Aluminum V-Hull boat and adding a floor, could this method work?



here is how i did it finished, and my most sincere apologies for the accidental hijack............

you can now see what goes where in the boat

2 mistakes i made was not enough coats of the right varnish before installing the transom, :facepalm will be corrected by sanding, priming and repainting afterwards), so i had to add coats while on the boat and using Mahogany to mount the fish finder ( also to be corrected at a later date)..............

i used a brass plate on the inside of the transom so i do not chew up the wood.........