1966 40hp evinrude generator group question

[Eska3.0]

Hey everyone. Im hoping I can get a question answered about removing some wiring from this engine. A little info is its a evinrude lark viii model 40672B with electric shift. I had picked this unit up 2 years ago and have done some minor rewiring and maintenance (new ignition, carb amd fuel pump rebuild etc. ) I have has it out and the engine is decent. However theres one thing I cannot stand. The junction box. So basically this model has a belt driven generator with voltage regulator in the juction box that's supposed to maintain a charge on the battery. The engine never had the belt or the system running when I had it and I'm wanting to run a solar charger anyways for my battery and so I'm not worried about buying a new generator or trying to get this system working but I'm more wondering if I can safely remove all wiring related to the generator group from the j-box and ignition. I would leave the actual unit mounted in the motor to maintain a good balance in it but all wiring would be removed and isolated for non-use. Is it really this simple or does the wiring have an effect on completing other circuits that relate to the starting/operation of the outboard? Thanks in advance for your time and answers and forgive my ignorance in this matter as this is a fun but challenging learning curve for me. Also I apologize for grammar,punctuation and spelling this post was all from my phone and it's hard posting properly lol Thanks again!

 

[racerone]

When in forward gear there is a constant draw of near 2 amps by the forward magnet.

 

[Eska3.0]

Okay thanks for that info. All I know is I've had it out a few times and used it for my needs and it worked fine never has it once genrated any power so obviously it's just drawing straight from battery with no put back to keep it charged. Which as I said I'm aware of and am working on a way to combat that but my question relates to removal of wiring and if it'll have an effect toward the starting and operation of my outboard.

 

[racerone]

Battery is used to crank it over.------Magneto for ignition spark does not need 12 volts from the battery.

 

[Eska3.0]

Okay so whats the relation of 2 amp constant draw in forward to draining of battery? Ie: how long will a healthy battery last with no power being regenerated back to maintain charge? And won't a good solar charger suffice to maintain charge? It's primarily used to fish so alot of moving and then throwing anchor so there's a lot of potential charge time vs run time if you know what I mean.

 

[oldboat1]

If not using the generator, think it would be best to just run without the belt, as you are doing -- leave the wire harness in place. Given the 2 amp draw while operating, might consider a 2-bank battery system with an isolated auxiliary battery. Maybe already have that. Hooking a solar charger directly to the starting battery should be fine with the existing harness in place -- pretty tough to make up for a 2amp draw, I think, but can't hurt.

 

[racerone]

Depends on the SIZE / CAPACITY of your battery.

 

[lindy46]

If all the components are there except the belt, why not add a belt and not have to worry about it?

 

[Eska3.0]

Okay sounds good that is how I was thinking of setting it up using one dedicated battery for accessories and this or primarily for starting snd operating the electric shift. My battery for starting and operating shift is a 845 MCA with 120 amp hours . Not sure how that translates into my situation though. The reason I don't just buy a belt is because a)it's 100 bucks or more to Canada. AND b) I'm not sure my voltage regulator is working either as the j box is brutally corroded hence my wanting to rewire and or remove wiring thats no longer needed. It won't let me upload a pic of the j box due to file being too large it makes me cringe just looking at it

 

[oldboat1]

Some interesting source information here (see F_R's posts): http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...boards/10144128-1968-evinrude-33hp-electrical . Sounds like you are up against some issues in getting your system to work, but with some less expensive parts it might be worth a try. (If you go for it, hope you post results.)

Battery size sounds good. If using an auxiliary as well, think I would size it about the same.

 

[F_R]

You can remove whatever parts of the charging system you want to remove. As long as you have enough battery capacity to hold it in gear you should have no problem. But do be aware that if the battery gets too low, the clutches can slip and wear. If it gets lower yet, you will have no drive. As with any battery, what you get out of it is directly related to what you put in it. Like you can get more water out of a washtub than you can a pail, but it takes more to fill it back up again.

BTW, you can get that belt for a LOT less $. And you can get a Harley Davidson solid state regulator for around $50 US. Fits GENERATOR equipped 1965-69 Harley Big Twins and Sportsters 1965-1977.

 

[lindy46]

Here's the belt:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Johnson-Evi...ash=item236237f001:g:WoUAAOSwGYVXDHqZ&vxp=mtr

 

[Eska3.0]

Ok wow I appreciate all the info and knowledge on thus matter. It's nice to know this awesome site has such great members that care to help the other members of this community. Keep it up iboats members!!! F_R your reply Is basically what I was wondering. I just was not sure if the generator grouping was directly related to the starting or operating of the outboard given its tied into the ignition. Also good to know about the harley part working for my outboard might be something I'll have to dig into a bit more before completely disregarding this system. Ideally I'd love for it to work it's just the j box I'm dealing with is horrendous and the voltage regulator that the wiring ties into looks like it was found at the bottom of an ocean. So I guess I'd need to source one of those too. Lindy I appreciate the link that is not to bad at 30 a belt it'd work out to 50-60 bucks shipped to my door in canada which is more then fair to me . Thanks again!