1966 Merc 95hp Backfiring Help

merc1

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I posted here while back that it was not firing well i got that fix. It now has good fire but it backfire's like its out of time. I did not move the timing at all. This motor has sat for some time so i put carb kits in it because i thought maybe that was what it was. The motor was backfiring befor i put the kits in. If anyone can help let me know. Thanks Ernie.
 

Laddies

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Re: 1966 Merc 95hp Backfiring Help

Make sure the timing marks are alined, ck the cap and rotor, you can wash them with hot water and dish soap, making sure they are well rinsed with water and the dried well, ck the carbon and replace if nessecary
 

emckelvy

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Re: 1966 Merc 95hp Backfiring Help

Make sure the spark plug wires are correct in the distributor cap.

Depending on the cap, there can be as many as three different patterns covering 93.5CI, 90CI, 76CI, 66CI, or 60CI Sixes.

If you happen to have a 950SS, you'd use the pattern in the middle, with each number in a 'square'.

If your motor is not an "SS" model, you'd use the outer-most pattern. Even one pair of plug wires swapped could cause problems and there's no telling what's been done in the past, so it's at least worth checking.

HTH.........ed
 

merc1

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Re: 1966 Merc 95hp Backfiring Help

Hi i am going to take the dist cap off and wash it today. But when i look at the manual it looks to me like the timing mark is close'est to the flywheel when lined up . Is this right? Mine is lined up but it is not next ti the flywheel but out in plain site. Should it be slightly under the flywheel or should the mark be out front in plain site ? The book look's like it is under the under edge of the flywheel. I would like to thank you for your help God Bless. Ernie.
 

merc1

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Re: 1966 Merc 95hp Backfiring Help

Well i found what it was the timming belt is lose and jumping the teeth on the gear. I new it was a timing i have been around enough to know when a motor sounds like it has jumped time. I took a marker and marked the belt and pully. I then cranked it over and sure enough the belt had moved about an inch. Now i need to remove the flywheel to put on a new belt. Can this be done without a puller and what is the best way to hold the flywheel while you break the nut lose on the fly wheel. Thanks Laddies and Emckelvy. Its folks like you that make this a great forurm.
 

emckelvy

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Re: 1966 Merc 95hp Backfiring Help

About the only correct way to pull the entire flywheel without a puller is to remove (2) opposite bolts on the center hub (they should be 5/16-NF, if they're 1/4" you may have trouble getting them out without breakage), then use Grade 8 bolts with an automotive harmonic balancer puller. I did it this way for many years before I got a >proper< puller !

If you have access to a big strap wrench you can use that to hold the flywheel. Or wrap a length of rope around the O.D. of the flywheel, using a breaker bar or other suitable instrument wrapped up in the rope, such that you have a Pore Man's strap wrench. This'll do in a pinch. Another (last resort) method is to clamp a stout pair of Vice Grips to the rim of the starter teeth, such that the pliers angle downwards so you can spin the flywheel around and use the upper rear cowling mount as a backstop for the pliers. This works better if you clamp 2 sets of pliers on the rim. Take care not to gouge the rim if you do this.

If you have an air impact wrench, likely you won't even have to use anything but a gloved hand to hold onto the flywheel. Typically if you use the air tool, you put upwards tension on the puller with one hand, air tool in the other, and she pops right off.

Of course, nothing substitutes for having the correct tool ! And the one from the Merc dlr isn't that expensive. There are also "lesser quality" pullers on eBay for considerably less, that'll still do the job. Just don't plan on pulling flywheels every day with one of them 'cause they won't last!

There's one last method, remove all the bolts holding the flywheel "flex plate" to the center hub. If you do this, be Very Very sure to make obvious match marks so you can get the flywheel back in the same exact position. Best to line up the motor so #1 cyl is at TDC with the belt timing marks on dist and flywheel lined up, then make sure not to turn anything as you're working on it. Even with the center hub in place, you can remove the stator and replace the belt.

Something to watch for when you tear into it: check the belt drive sprocket on the flywheel for cracks. I had an older motor with a cracked sprocket and the darn thing would rotate, changing the timing constantly. Drove me crazy until I figured it out! In that case, you'd have no choice but to remove the center hub but if you had the flywheel off, you could even use a jaws-type puller on it.

BTW if you pull the flywheel hub center bolts, put a drop of Red Loctite on each bolt and torque to approx 25 ft-lb upon reassembly. Torque spec for 1/4-20 Grade 8 bolts would be a bit less, Google on "SAE Torque Specs" to find that out.

HTH...........ed
 

merc1

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Re: 1966 Merc 95hp Backfiring Help

Thanks for all your help. I got the new timeing belt on i then marked the pully on the dist as well as the belt the belt it is still moving. What did i miss ? And dose the flywheel have a shear key on it . I was not able to get the flywheel off so i marked it so i would know where to put it back on. It look's like it has a shear key in it but i am not sure that the 66 had one or the W cut in them. Anymore help on this would be helpfull. Thanks Ernie.
 

emckelvy

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Re: 1966 Merc 95hp Backfiring Help

Good point, all the 90 C.I. and lower Sixes have a keyed crankshaft/flywheel interface and if the key were sheared for some reason, you'd certainly have issues!

I can't recall ever seeing one sheared but have seen plenty of Johnrude Big Twin flywheels shear keys!

So, might not be a bad idea to pull that flywheel center and check it out. If you can't find any problems with the dist drive gear or flywheel drive gear I don't know what else it could possibly be.

BTW is the belt fairly snug or is it flopping around a lot when running? You should have a bit of deflection to the belt if you were to push in on it with your finger, but not so much that the belt is "flapping in the breeze". It should have been a snug fit when installing on the crank pulleys and not just have "fallen" on.

HTH & let us know if you find something...........ed
 

merc1

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Re: 1966 Merc 95hp Backfiring Help

Hi Ed and thanks i have worked 4 days strate on this and cant get it done. I have looked everthing over real good . The pullys both look real good and the belt seems to fit nice and snug. I have tryed to take the center hub off but that thing is froze on there. As i said before i dont have the right puller but i have a good harmonic balancer and put a lot of you no what on it and wont come off. I ever tryed a small amount of heat and a peck with a hammer and it did not move.I know the last two we not the best thing to do but that bad boy is on there. Any more help Ed Thanks Ernie.
 

emckelvy

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Re: 1966 Merc 95hp Backfiring Help

Apply as much tension as you can with the puller; heat up the hub then apply a liberal application of PB Blaster and let it soak. You may have to let it soak for a day then repeat.

I had an OMC 120 Looper that was so bad that I had to let it sit for about a week then heat, Blast, and slap the air wrench to it, until it finally gave up the Ghost! Bugger had a 1-5/16" flywheel nut, what a killer. Makes that Wussy 15/16" on the Merc seem wimpy!!!

Note, try not to get too crazy with the hammer, a couple of solid raps with a large mallet are more effective (and probably less damaging) than wailing on it with a smaller hammer. Pull up quite stoutly on the puller as you're rapping it, and it'll lessen the strain on the crankshaft bearings.

G'luck.........ed
 

merc1

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Re: 1966 Merc 95hp Backfiring Help

Well after getting it in time and new it was right we were left with the same thing still backfiring. So we were checking the wireing and the coils were very warm i new this was not right. I went and got the manual and was looking at the coil wire's someone at sometime had crossed the coil wire's. we switch the coil wire's put the gas to it and after a few turns she fired up. After all that work we will need to go over it with a fine tooth comb. The motor ran well but need fine tuneing any help on this i would be nice. I do not have a timming dial. I do have a timeing light. I may need some help with some of this so dont be shy i am all ears. Thanks Ernie.
 
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