1967 40hp Questions

[Birdup]

I am looking at purchasing another motor. A 1967 Evinrude Model #40752E. The guy selling it says it has 95lbs of commpression. <br />Is that low?<br />It is in ok condition and he said it hasn't been on a boat in a few years. He ran it in a barrel. Do you think it's worth $300?

 

[dafox99]

Re: 1967 40hp Questions

Well, if he can show 95 on both cylinders dry, I'd buy it. Great motor. I think the adage is 100+ psi on all cylinders, but 95 is damn close. Hopefully, Paul, or one of the other smart guys will reply. My '65 is similar on compression (a tad higher), and pushes my 14' runabout 32 mph all day. I think the key is that you don't have much disparity between cylinders.

 

[dafox99]

Re: 1967 40hp Questions

Hey bird .. uh, sorry for the "dry" insertion. I'm not certain "wet" and "dry" apply to 2-strokers. either way, while it seems it bit on the lower end, if both cylinders register about the same (+/- 10%), I think it's a good deal. Maybe check ebay for similar deals?

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: 1967 40hp Questions

Dry: Sure does; if there's fogging oil in there when the compression test is taken, you'll get an artifically high reading. If it's been recently run it'll read a little higher sometimes. Especially if run on a heavy oil mix.<br /><br />There's no real spec since that depends on temperature, altitude, cranking RPM, etc. Decarbing may pick it up a few psi if there's a stuck ring or two (which is very common with these engines, especially if extra oil or the wrong oil is used).<br /><br />Check the lower unit lube for signs of metal or water (looks milky, like coffee with cream) before closing the deal. Intelligent questions to ask is if the ignition coils have been replaced (common problem), and when the impeller was last replaced. The impeller needs to be switched out every few years, so that will give you an idea if it's been neglected.<br /><br />I don't know your outboard market, but I would think $300 is a fair price.

 

[Birdup]

Re: 1967 40hp Questions

thanks for the info everyone. I have a 68 20hp and have gone through a lower unit rebuild. If there is milky oil or metal shaving in the lower end what how much would that bring the price down? I would also be worried about the clutch dog if there is water in the lower unit. Should that be a concern?

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: 1967 40hp Questions

The clutch dogs on the 40hp are not as bad as on your 20hp. <br />As for how much metal shavings or milk bring down the price, that really depends on if it's electric shift or manual. The manual shift is more desirable because it's simpler and cheaper to fix. The electric shift can get expensive in a hurry with water in it. It does have a much better hydrodynamic shape though.