1967 6 hp CD-24 lync & sync instructions

[knickels]

I've just completed a full rebuild on my dad's 6hp, and it's not starting well and when it starts the top end power is pretty poor. I adjusted the cam on the underside of the flywheel, and it starts better, but I can't find a relevant procedure for this engine - my Seloc manual doesn't say at all where to place the 'speed control lever' when adjusting the cam. I found a nice 'vintage' Johnson Service Manual on these forums but it talks about markings on a houseing that doesn't exist on my engine.

Does anyone have a pointer to a video or procedure that will help with the lync & sync?

(and it seems to me this won't fix the low power at WOT - appreciate any pointers there too)

 

[F_R]

The picture on the right is pretty clear. Adjust the "speed control" to where the cam follower aligns with the index mark. In this position, the carb throttle lever should be just barely starting to open. Move the cam in or out to make that happen.

 

[racerone]

There is a line on top of the cam.------When follower ( roller or pin ) lines up with that , then that is the point where throttle plate OPENS.-----Sounds like it is running on just 1 cylinder.---Post compression numbers.----And does spark jump a gap of 1/4" or more on a test device ?

 

[knickels]

The picture on the right is pretty clear. Adjust the "speed control" to where the cam follower aligns with the index mark. In this position, the carb throttle lever should be just barely starting to open. Move the cam in or out to make that happen.

Thanks, that helps.
So I move the cam until the butterfly valve begins to open as the center of the follower passes that mark (it's center on some procedures, right on some)
I can't see the picture you posted for some reason though...

 

[racerone]

Post #1 has the very clear instruction in the diagram to the right !

 

[F_R]

I didn't post a picture. I was referring to the one you posted. Yes the way you just wrote is correct, just another way of stating it.

 

[Crosbyman]

the diagram is for a smaller motor like the JW's

for your 6hp just put your throttle handle to the START position then line up the cam roller and cam markings has describded for the JW

 

[knickels]

There is a line on top of the cam.------When follower ( roller or pin ) lines up with that , then that is the point where throttle plate OPENS.-----Sounds like it is running on just 1 cylinder.---Post compression numbers.----And does spark jump a gap of 1/4" or more on a test device ?

Compression seems a bit low to me - 80 bottom, 70 top. My manual says normal rule-of-thumb is 100+.

All the water passages had clogged up between when my dad bought it used in 1980 or so to around 2010 when I stopped using it much. I pulled it all the way apart, had a machine shop acid bathe the block to clean it out, re-assembled. So it's got new pistons, rings, all new gaskets everywhere, haven't been broken in. (I've done fair amount of work on cars, but little on boat engines.)

Yes, good spark on both top and bottom. I pulled the plug wires one at a time when I was warming it up to do the compression check, it's definitely running on the bottom cylinder alone.

 

[knickels]

I didn't post a picture. I was referring to the one you posted. Yes the way you just wrote is correct, just another way of stating it.

Ah, F_R, I see you have an "about" link in your signature that is broken, and shows to me as a missing picture.

I was just confused since I couldn't do step 2 in the original procedure. But now I'm thinking there is something bigger going on.

 

[racerone]

What did the coils look like.--- There is a need to answer the question.----Does spark jump a gap of 1/4" or more on a test device ?

 

[knickels]

What did the coils look like.--- There is a need to answer the question.----Does spark jump a gap of 1/4" or more on a test device ?

The coils are in good shape, no cracking or breaks on visual inspection. Here are a couple of pictures. They may be OE for all I know (through they have an ebossed "M" on the side).


I laid the plugs on the block, and observed the spark as shown in the below. What kind of test device would I use for this (I'm more a car mechanic than a boat motor mechanic)?

 

[knickels]

Hm, that little spot shows up much better on the image than in real life - didn't even notice it before - it appears it might be a small spot of broken/chipped insulation on the coil to the top cylinder. Could that be causing a short to the flywheel maybe?

I also noticed that the plugs are pretty oily when I pulled them for the compression check.

 

[Crosbyman]

maybe just the view angle.. but I don't see the oiler wick on the magneto plate...

it should b attached with the oiler clip under the coil

 

[knickels]

maybe just the view angle.. but I don't see the oiler wick on the magneto plate...

it should b attached with the oiler clip under the coil

Yes, it's hidden behind the crankshaft in this image, but it's there.

 

[knickels]

@racerone are you talking about something like this? I don't have one of those (yet). EDIT: Grabbed one from the auto parts store, yes nice strong spark across a 10mm gap. Sigh, thought we were onto something for a minute there.

 

[racerone]

Actually the coils often ---" burn through "--- on the bottom and short to the magneto plate.----This why some of have tested for spark using a testing device.

 

[knickels]

Actually the coils often ---" burn through "--- on the bottom and short to the magneto plate.----This why some of have tested for spark using a testing device.

Gotcha. Well, good spark.
So it's fuel or compression I guess.

Should I start a new thread on this?