1967 6hp Johnson rebuilt - running on one cylinder

knickels

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My dad bought this nice little 1967 Johnson in 1980 or so for our 18' aluminum sport canoe.

All the water passages had clogged up sometime between when my dad bought it used in 1980 or so to around 2010 when I stopped using it much. My son overheated it a couple times before we figured out what was going on. The pistons were pretty scored up. I pulled it all the way apart, had a machine shop acid bathe the block to clean it out, re-assembled. So it's got new pistons, rings, all new gaskets everywhere, haven't been broken in. (I've done fair amount of work on cars, but little on boat engines.). I've rebuilt the carb, including soaking overnight in carb cleaner and a new float. I've checked that the spark jumps a 10mm (>1/4") gap on both cylinders. New plugs when I rebuilt it. New fuel pump.

Since the rebuild, it starts very hard and has low power at WOT. In another thread (asking for help with the link & sync procedure), it was suggested that it might be running on one cylinder. Indeed, by starting and pulling one plug wire then the other, I've verified that it appears to be running on the bottom cylinder only.

Compression seems a bit low to me - 80 bottom, 70 top. My manual says normal rule-of-thumb is 100+. Does that mean that the old pistons ground out the cylinder walls too much and I need to re-bore and get oversize cylinders/rings? Or something else? It's within the 80% spec given in the manual (80*0.80=64).

Any ideas how to narrow it down further?
 

racerone

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Might not be easy to find O/S pistons and rings.-----Your location ?
 

knickels

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Might not be easy to find O/S pistons and rings.-----Your location ?
San Antonio - I've been getting all my parts for this from https://www.marineengine.com/. That's part of my frustration - every time I need a part it's another $10 and 2 weeks in shipping :). Finding a machine shop to bore out the head would be actually harder - there are fewer and fewer of those around.

Do you think those compression #s are a non-starter?
 

racerone

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It should run with those numbers.----In my opinion it will not be hard to find good used parts ( block ) for this engine.----They were the same for many years.----But do some trouble shooting and find out the reason for running on one cylinder.----If you could walk over it would be easy to sort this thing out.----Have 6 or more of these engines.
 

knickels

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It should run with those numbers.----In my opinion it will not be hard to find good used parts ( block ) for this engine.----They were the same for many years.----But do some trouble shooting and find out the reason for running on one cylinder.----If you could walk over it would be easy to sort this thing out.----Have 6 or more of these engines.
That's good news on the compression numbers.
Yes, it would be great if I could walk over and show you, but alas we're likely not in the same place. So I was looking for trouble shooting help, not sure what to look at next - that's why I came to the forum :)
 

racerone

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You need 4 things for that motor to run.----Spark jumping a 1/4" gap at the right time.------Compression in cylinder.-----Fuel ( only 1 carburetor )----Crankcase compression ( there are 2 separate crankcases ) each with its own reed valves.------Inspect , test ., trouble shoot to see what is missing on yours.
 
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knickels

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You need 4 things for that motor to run.----Spark jumping a 1/4" gap at the right time.------Compression in cylinder.-----Fuel ( only 1 carburetor )----Crankcase compression ( there are 2 separate crankcases ) each with its own reed valves.------Inspect , test ., trouble shoot to see what is missing on yours.
There are two separate crankcases? Do you mean above and below the cylinders?
Given that I've checked the spark and as you say fuel is combined, I guess I need to take a close(r) look at the reed valves, maybe one got bent or put back incorrectly.
 

racerone

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Each piston has it's own crankcase( crankcase compression ) below the piston.----Each piston operates with it's own cylinder above the piston.( cylinder compression )
 

knickels

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Each piston has it's own crankcase( crankcase compression ) below the piston.----Each piston operates with it's own cylinder above the piston.( cylinder compression )
Ok, so the compression checks lead us to believe this part is ok, correct?
 

racerone

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Compression in the cylinder is OK.-----But that has ABSOLUTELY nothing to do with compression in the crankcase.----You can have a hole in the crankcase and ZERO compression in there.----Compression in the cylinder will still be fine
 

oldboat1

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Has the head been resurfaced somewhere along the line, and the gasket replaced?
 

knickels

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Compression in the cylinder is OK.-----But that has ABSOLUTELY nothing to do with compression in the crankcase.----You can have a hole in the crankcase and ZERO compression in there.----Compression in the cylinder will still be fine
Hmm, is there a way to check/measure this?
 

oldboat1

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After two overheats, best to do that -- wet/dry sandpaper and a piece of glass or similar.
 

knickels

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After two overheats, best to do that -- wet/dry sandpaper and a piece of glass or similar.
A warped/gouged head would show up in the compression numbers (i.e. above the pistons) correct? Not that it wouldn't have been a good thing to do, but doesn't seem to fit the symptoms I'm chasing...
 

oldboat1

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"Compression seems a bit low to me - 80 bottom, 70 top. My manual says normal rule-of-thumb is 100+"
 

racerone

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It will run just fine with those compression numbers.-----It is a fishing motor and not a Formula 1 motor.
 
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