Re: 1967 Johnson 33 hp
HI daddypldeo. Nothing keeps the magneto from going to the "kill" position. The magneto is advanced when you twist the throttle. You should be able to twist the throttle all the way down and have the motor just barely stay running. Lync-n-sync just coordinates the timing and fuel delivery. Ideally you want the carb's butterfly vale all the way open ( i.e. carb throat is "wide open") when the throttle is twisted to the max, and the butterfly valve should be nearly closed (i.e. carb throat is "choked") when the throttle is turnned down all the way. Here's a vid of a guy doing a lync-n-sync on his little '65 5hp. It's not the exact same as yours, but it will give you the right idea. His uses a plastic roller cam, whereas yours will be brass colored, but the principle is the same. The only tricky part may be loosening the fasteners that hold the roller cam in place. You may need a small 90 degree screwdriver to get to them. Hope that helps.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ssi_Mypklwc
However, if your motor isn't starting after several min of WOT, I think it may be more of an electrical/ignition problem. If/when ignition components like coils get too hot, they can konk out, which will prevent you from starting the motor until it cools back down again. Will it start up again after it sits for a while and can cool off? If so, then that's classic sign of ignition trouble. If the coils have never been replace, that's probably your culprit. They were about the only weak link on these old motors and they failed pretty often, but the new replacement ones are WAY better and will last forever. When was the last time the ignition was serviced (reset/clean points, condensers, coils, s'plug wires, etc....)? If it is the ignition, no worries, you can fix/replace all of it yourself for less than $50, and you get all the parts right here at ibaots. Keep us posted.
