no need to split the two lower parts just thread the brass insert pull it out and replace the seal … see video on utube not very difficult… I did it myself https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pX1u6rtUE1M&t=171s
Well you need to take the bottom cap off in order to remove the shift rod.-------Elegantly easy to do.----No magic to it.----Crosby,----How would you run a tap in there with the shift rod in there ????
"Torpedo lower part?" Sounds like a V4. Yes, you do have to separate the lower and upper sections to get the shift rod out. Then it is an easy job to pick the o-ring out and put a new one in without removing the bushing.
Well you need to take the bottom cap off in order to remove the shift rod.-------Elegantly easy to do.----No magic to it.----Crosby,----How would you run a tap in there with the shift rod in there ????
I doubt I have a model number on hand, it is a v4.
it's a type II? The lower torpedo part, before the prop doesnt seperate in half, it has 2 nuts on the top where the water pump is. Do I just pull those? And then pull it apart, and then that gain access to the o-ring below?
So pulled the pump, the plate, and ended up getting them separated, all the steel rollers fell from that bearing on the lowest side, the second higher up one stayed all together(thank god) going to order my gaskets and seals.
any tricks to putting that bearing back together for reassembly? It's the Pinion Bearing.
Got it, ordering new parts right now, I'll throw in 2 new lock nuts. Grease the race insert then insert the rollers then hope you don't bump them during reassembly?
Also for the shift bushing, seal and gasket. I have found 2 different ways its assembled, what is the proper way? There was no seal Ontop of the brass bushing during disassembly. So is the diagram wrong?
I hope the website being in it doesnt cause problems for rules and things.
F_R so with what you say I can just pick the o ring out and push the new one back into the slot without removal of the brass bushing and stuff? Should I worry about the gasket under the brass mating to the aluminum housing?
Prior to RE-Reading everything. I attempted with a ratchet extension to push the brass out, the brass did not move, I'm worried I might have wrecked the paper style gasket below the bushing in that aluminum housing.
I'm going to attempt the o-Ring swap without removal of the brass, then pressure test with soap.
but if I have ruined that paper gasket at all what is the way to remove that brass bushing? It's more cone shaped then what I find everywhere else and I doubt I can thread it.
Best lower unit gear oil? I have to do my vehicles PTU so I was gonna grab some Royal purple 75-140 gear max, would that be good or should i get something lighter?
The owners manual said to use OMC Type C oil, but that was because Type C was the only Oil OMC had at the time. OMC/BRP Type C Oil is now labeled Precision Blend. Any of the BRP or Mercury Gear Oils would be fine.
