1968 electromatic

[qxlooper]

I have a 1968 40 hp elctromatic motor, runs great! Three questions:

1. When shifting into reverse the motors just quits. It quits like it grounded the mags. How do I fix this?

2. I got a car voltage regulator and am trying to wire it in so that it will charge my battery. I have the manual and am at a lost as to how not to have an ammeter. any ideas? The volatge regualtor gets warm even with the motor off. I do understand generators and need to figure out why it is getting warm without the motor on. Can I install a switch somewhere and control the generator when the motor is on?

3. What is the best mixture to use for the fuel?

I appreciate everyone time that answers these questions!

Keith

 

[F_R]

Re: 1968 electromatic

You better check out the shift circuits on that motor before you twist off a drive shaft or break a clutch spring.. It could be trying to go in both gears at once.

Have no idea what you are trying to put in there for a regulator. Is it for a DC generator? The correct type of regulator has a cut-out relay to disconnect the generator when it isn't running, or running to slow to charge.

Fuel mix is supposed to be 24:1. Some people cheat. Do so at your own risk.

 

[qxlooper]

Re: 1968 electromatic

It shifts fine into forward and neutral just fine, just kills the engine when it is put into reverse.


I got a voltage regulator for a 1969 truck. I have a dc generator on the motor. The only thing I see lacking is the power take off. I remember seeing a post about someone using a car regulator for the engine, but can't find the post anymore. ???????????????????

Thanks. 24:1 will be it then!

K

 

[qxlooper]

Re: 1968 electromatic

ANYONE ELSE? Someone has to have some good insight to this....... With all these motors running around, what is one to do? Help please!

 

[samo_ott]

Re: 1968 electromatic

Actually I believe a 1968 is 50:1, they don't need as much oil in the later years.

 

[F_R]

Re: 1968 electromatic

A 1969 truck should have an alternator. Your Johnson has a DC generator. I don't see any way they could be compatable. You need a 10 amp, 3 unit regulator for DC generators. The 3 units are voltage regulation, current regulation, and cut-out relay.

If you are balking at the hundred bucks or so for a new OEM regulator, I have heard that NAPA Auto Parts has a VR306 for a Harley Davidson that is a close match. Dunno what that one costs, and have never tried it. Just what I've been told.

As I said, get a multimeter and a manual and check out the shift circuitry. Dinking around with other methods when you don't know what you are doing can get expensive.

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: 1968 electromatic

The design of that powerhead (all bearings) allows the 50/1 fuel/oil mixture to be used.

As mentioned above in various replies...... check the voltage to the shift wires that lead to the lower unit at the powerhead. In reverse, there should be voltage ONLY to the BLUE wire. It sounds like you have the wrong shift switch installed and are applying voltage to BOTH the GREEN and BLUE wire at the same time when shifting into reverse.

 

[qxlooper]

Re: 1968 electromatic

In reverse, there should be voltage ONLY to the BLUE wire. It sounds like you have the wrong shift switch installed and are applying voltage to BOTH the GREEN and BLUE wire at the same time when shifting into reverse.

So am I checking this coming from the throttle control or from the engine? I am thinking that somewhere along the lines during rewiring, the reverse wire did not get back to the wire on the engine. would this cause it to stop if the wire is not connected?

Also, I have the Seloc manual and wiring diagram, but the only diagram that is faded and does not include what color the wires are is the one I need. 40 hp 1968 with electric shift. Any ideas? all that is listed is the gauge of the wires. Makes it hard to know what does what. If I can get some help on to what color of wire is going where, I could be done!(possibly)


Please help!

 

[F_R]

Re: 1968 electromatic

12V on Green wire is forward
12V on Blue wire is reverse
No voltage on either wire is neutral.
Voltage of both green and blue wires at the same time equals broken parts from going into both gears at once.

You check the voltages at the shift wires where they come up from the lower unit, toward the rear of the powerhead.

Also check the resistance of the coils and wires going down to the lower unit. Sometimes the cable burns in two and shorts the wires together.

 

[biggizmo]

Re: 1968 electromatic

I found I was having the same problem . . . when I first took my lower unit apart to check the water pump for damage, the blue wire was bare. Therefore, when water got into the lower unit; it would ground out the shifting wire. You can repair the wire if it's exposed by using RTV Blue and some good electrical wire. This may only be a temporary fix, but it's easier than trying to take the entire lower unit apart to replace the cables. Remember, whenever you take the lower unit apart - do not pinch shifting wires when you reassemble.

It is 50-1 older engines for fuel mixture.

 

[tx1961whaler]

Re: 1968 electromatic

I'm sure he got it figured out over the past 2 years....