1968 ish Johnson please help!!

[Newwwbie]

So I’ve finally saved up enough money to purchase a “new to me” boat and outboard. The seller told me that I would just need a battery which I’m learning is not the case at all. I have no problem building up this motor because from what I’m hearing it’s a reliable engine. I’ve been wall watching on here for about 1 month just learning from others and found alot of my questions answered already! I purchased a Seloc repair manual, and have started taking off the carb as of last night. Sorry for being long winded…here’s my problem tho. After buying a new solenoid, battery and ignition switch. The motor “tried” to fire up, the starter engaged with the flywheel…it was just spinning though. I ended up spraying starter fluid into the carb (which I now no is the wrong thing to do) but it actually tried to FIRE up!!! I’m just really needing some direction PLEASE!!!! I believe it to be a 1966-68 super sea horse with electric start I’ll post a few pictures I wasn’t able to find the model plate.

 

[F_R]

I figure it is a 1966

 

[OptsyEagle]

I don't know anything about your particular motor but if you spray starter fluid into the carb and you get it to fire temporarily, while it burns through the starter fluid, then you most likely have narrowed down your problem to a fuel problem as opposed to your problem being related to spark or compression, etc.

Fuel problems can be many. You will want to make sure fuel is getting to the carburetor. If you can disconnect fuel lines and squeeze the bulb (if your fuel line has a squeeze bulb) to see if fuel is flowing there you can perhaps narrow down where the obstruction is. It could also be an air leak in the fuel line. It is unlikely to be the fuel pump since its operation is more about supplying fuel for running, not starting. In the end it may be a clogged carburetor and if that is the case the carb will need to be disassembled and cleaned thoroughly.

 

[Chris1956]

Gee, isn't the first thing to check is for spark, followed by compression? If spark is weak or absent, the ign system needs some attention. I believe those motors had twin magnetos with coils, points and condensers. So inspect the coils for cracks. Replace any that are cracked. Then clean the points and see if spark gets better. If not, new tune up kits (points, condensers) are indicated.

 

[racerone]

Agreed it likely is a 66 model.-----Those were painted green starting in 1967 model year.-----Do a complete evaluation before spending any coins on it.

 

[jimmbo]

Cowl is a 1966
I learned to ski behind one, but ours was a 63 Electramatic that had a 66 Cowl on it

 

[440roadrunner]

Just about all these girls need pretty much the same things
1...New coils, unless they are in the last few years. This is because the original OEM coils epoxy deteriorates and they crack open, drawing moisture
2...Likely need new points AND CONDENSERS
3...Check and be critical and figure on new plug wires. SOLID CORE wire
Go over the mag, get yourself a service manual
4...Carb needs cleaned at very least, and maybe a float. The main jets on these is a PITA and difficult to clean "in the bottom of the bowl." I converted one of mine to an earlier 35hp lower bowl and adjustable needle There were actually conversion kits for some older motors
5....Inspect as best you can, and even consider removing the intake covers to look for rust/ water damage, and look carefully in the intake manifold with carb removed, for corrosion/ damage to the reed plates
6...Check compression
7..If you do not have a timing tool, I've had good luck by carefully scribing from the timing marks out to the starter teeth and marking them. SET THE POINTS BY TIMING MARKS
8..Take a good look at condition of the flywheel/ crank taper and key
9...Replace water pump impeller
10...Very likely the lower unit needs re-sealed. Shift shaft seal, drive shaft seal, prop shaft seal, and of course the gaskets/ rope seals. Don't forget the little cross-screw that retains the shift link at the very bottom. THAT can leak TOO
11... Replace all hose.

Just me, I don't even try to get the water heated choke to work. I just manually choke it and that is that.

 

[racerone]

The motor pictures in post #1 show the HOT AIR choking set-up.

 

[Newwwbie]

Hi guys I really appreciate all of the help! I have 2 more questions though:

What is this? Should it be a bolt or something in this hole and do these coils look good?

For some reason after I set the gap at .020 on the points the motor wouldn’t fire, so I pulled off the flywheel and the gap is huge…

 

[racerone]

I have seen that hole plugged.-----But it is the air intake for the hot air choke.-----There is a wee heat exchanger inside the exhaust covers.

 

[jimmbo]

For some reason after I set the gap at .020 on the points the motor wouldn’t fire, so I pulled off the flywheel and the gap is huge…

Perhaps you set the points at 0.020" at a spot where they were supposed to be closed

 

[Newwwbie]

Perhaps you set the points at 0.020" at a spot where they were supposed to be closed

I did smh…I got it set again tonight. She fires up and then dies after a backfire.

 

[Newwwbie]

I have seen that hole plugged.-----But it is the air intake for the hot air choke.-----There is a wee heat exchanger inside the exhaust covers.

Ok thank you! Something else for me to look up!

 

[Newwwbie]

very bottom. THAT can leak TOO
11... Replace

Thank you!!!! I tried removing the lower unit it’s almost fused shut. But I do have the parts ready.

 

[F_R]

What's fused shut? Do you mean you can't get the lower unit off? Don't have all the bolts out, do you? Including the big one at the rear that you can't see without removing the rear cover off the midsection.

 

[jimmbo]

I did smh…I got it set again tonight. She fires up and then dies after a backfire.

Out the Carb, or out the Exhaust?

 

[Newwwbie]

What's fused shut? Do you mean you can't get the lower unit off? Don't have all the bolts out, do you? Including the big one at the rear that you can't see without removing the rear cover off the midsection.

No. I did not see the bolt behind the midsection.