1968 Norris Craft Fiberglass Project

Paulywog0667

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Does anyone have experience with the stranded fillers? The product says waterproof. I found a couple small screw holes from who knows, but the boat motor and trailer where $500.00. I plan on sanding the entire boat and patching any small gauges or holes. Then recoating everything with a colored gelcoat. I still need to sand it better, but is a sanding, denatured alcohol scrub and work the stuff in the basic concept? Any recommendations on a product and where to get for priming and finish coat after all the sanding and patching? Or should I grind off the patch I used and use something else? Under the waterline patches, but will probably use the same product for above the water line.
 

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Woodonglass

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Bondo is NOT a good choice for submerged patches. It uses talc as a thickening agent and this allows water to penetrate the patch 3m makes marine rated fillers or you can make your own using a good quality laminating Polyester Resin. The last link in my signature line had some good info on painting your boat
 

Paulywog0667

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I appreciate the help. It claims waterproof, but working with it created a what exactly is that? Lol I was looking for a medium thickness glass reinforced basically epoxy. It is going to be sanded down and then I'll put a thin more under waterline friendly of something before what should be a waterproof gelcoat over that. There's a lot more small holes inside the boat, but where control were, etc.. I wasn't expecting it to be used for more than winch gouges, but randomly found the two holes someone must have been bringing meaning to side imaging with. Lol The stuff looked like a great bond was made and it seems solid for blending two holes, but I'll coat it with something nice. One can should be more than plenty for the entire inside and outside of the boat.
 

52FordF2

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If you are going to Gel Coat you will have to use Polyester resin. Gel coat and Epoxy does not go well together.
 

52FordF2

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Polyester resin is what used for fiberglasing. If painting the boat would need to primer before painting.

Epoxy does not bond well to Gel Coat.

If painting does not matter if using polyester or epoxy.
 

Paulywog0667

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Seems to be a polyester base. I haven't taken out the floor yet, but the label and pamphlet say waterproof. It should work for any issues my boat has. Excluding the debate of the floor. Might have to use a finish material for a couple patches, but that'll depend on sanding and the finish process. The finish coat would need to expose the patch to get wet, plus it's waterproof. It's a polyester resin with strands and a hardener. Green material and red hardner. Gelcoat is sprayable and could be the clear for paint and is tintable.
 

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Paulywog0667

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My deposit goes in the bank tomorrow. The 50hp. motor is not a concern unless I decide to weld a crack and a couple salvage holes in the lower housing. Only to restart at a lower seal kit. Allowing attention to go towards the slop sound under the boat floor after hosing it. Not sure if there wasn't bilge pumps in 1968, but screen between the sections slower than a good bilge seems the right fix. It looks like they where going for the, if water gets in one section it stays. The thin layer of fiberglass fabric and what seems a gel coat don't seem like they were actually going to stop water anytime soon.

Tomorrow will involve,
? cleaning under
? a type of screen system to funnel water rear
? fiberglass strips to reinforce under the plywood
? new plywood most likely on strips

Opinions I'm looking for include,
? floor options that are reasonable priced for on the plywood?
? if a screen system and bilge is a bad idea compared to, it shouldn't get water under the floor? ****Just put the bilge rear and seal the new floor better?****
? besides tractor supply and wal-mart paints. Products desiged for good finishes on boats?

I'll probably 80, 150, 220 sand the boat for paint before ripping out the rest of the floor. The top of the boat might end up with automotive paint and a clear depending... I was debating a black under, red upper and white trim for a nock off of my wife's uncle's Mastercraft, but dolling up the orange to a newer gold flake base and tangerine to a, read the paper clear coat seems nice too.
 

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Paulywog0667

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Also, does anyone think spray foam would be better to fill the hull voids instead of channeling or resealing empty air?
 

kcassells

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Spray foam soaks up water. IDK... is it sealed with glass? Glass isn't 100% waterproof either. Hmmm No.
I just had a whole conversation with myself. lol.
 

Paulywog0667

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Spray foam soaks up water. IDK... is it sealed with glass? Glass isn't 100% waterproof either. Hmmm No.
I just had a whole conversation with myself. lol.

Lol, idk either. I was debating some type of foam like what Tracker boats sprays into their hulls. The thing is it has gotten water there before. Went right through the holes from the seats and the rest of the plywood. Which makes the debate of maybe reinforcing it with some firing strips, but a 1/2" hole through each section to channel water back to a bilge. I'm actually heading to grab sandpaper and sawzall blades in a little bit.

Foam does seem like it would hold some water. I don't know if they have any that wouldn't suck up water either. I was contemplating because foam floats if it gets water.
 
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Paulywog0667

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I tossed on a dust mask and gave a quick cut through of the previous gel-coat plywood. It's either spray foam the sections or a fast patch and see if marine grade plywood will let me glass to the edges. Then I plan on rolled rubber mat material on the plywood to help seal and cushion. Then the finish floor, some textured rubber gym tiles.

I believe a couple small holes between the sections would allow water to get to the rear and a good 1,000gph.ish bilge would keep up and what was there would have transfered anyways. I do have some patch, fabric and resin. I could patch the three sections too.

Will fiberglass bond to marine grade ply though?
I'm debating minimal edge seal to hold the ply, but wouldn't that basically be resealing it? Then the rubber would stop seat lag bolts from filling up the sections again. I probably should have sanded the paint before taking out the floor, but figured I have until spring to finish the project and getting water out seemed important.
 

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Paulywog0667

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A little fabric on there makes the photo seem more presentable.
 

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