1968 Starchief I/O 120HP

Huron Angler

Admiral
Joined
Apr 7, 2009
Messages
6,025
Re: 1968 Starchief I/O 120HP

I get ny Natulex flooring today. Is it difficult to lay without getting wrinkles in it.?

I have to give credit to the Admiral for mine...she got it to lay down nicely.:)

Cutting the piece to fit outside of the boat prior to installation made it easier.

Some folks wrap the vinyl around each board so it can be stapled as well as glued...but I didn't want to have seams so opted for one piece.
 

Kainon

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Sep 13, 2009
Messages
608
Re: 1968 Starchief I/O 120HP

I see you have a NEW Timing Gear on the Cam Shaft. You MUST Use the Matching Gear from the Set on the Crank as they DO NOT Mate UP !! I did that and after about 20hours had timing jumping around besides having a nasty whine.

Ps.. the timing gears from the inlines can also be pushed on and off easier with a Small Hydraulic Press.
 

STOVIE

Cadet
Joined
Apr 24, 2010
Messages
28
Re: 1968 Starchief I/O 120HP

Thanks for all the great tips!

Guess it is time to make my "church" shopping list (Home Depot) for the supplies for the deck. .

Again, thanks for the input!
 

STOVIE

Cadet
Joined
Apr 24, 2010
Messages
28
Re: 1968 Starchief I/O 120HP

The machine shop that did the engine work hooked me up with the gears for the cam and the crank, should be good there, but thanks for the heads up.

I see you have a NEW Timing Gear on the Cam Shaft. You MUST Use the Matching Gear from the Set on the Crank as they DO NOT Mate UP !! I did that and after about 20hours had timing jumping around besides having a nasty whine.

Ps.. the timing gears from the inlines can also be pushed on and off easier with a Small Hydraulic Press.
 

Kainon

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Sep 13, 2009
Messages
608
Re: 1968 Starchief I/O 120HP

OK.. but allz I'm sayin is, double check, and ask and make sure they did use the crank gear, I thought they would be the same, and they weren't actually the diameters are a tiny bit different, which is part of what caused the failure, along with one being original and one from aftermarket.

and do expect a little whine from the alum gear.
 

STOVIE

Cadet
Joined
Apr 24, 2010
Messages
28
Re: 1968 Starchief I/O 120HP

Yeah, I have to old one as proof. Thanks again for the heads up.

OK.. but allz I'm sayin is, double check, and ask and make sure they did use the crank gear, I thought they would be the same, and they weren't actually the diameters are a tiny bit different, which is part of what caused the failure, along with one being original and one from aftermarket.

and do expect a little whine from the alum gear.
 

STOVIE

Cadet
Joined
Apr 24, 2010
Messages
28
Re: 1968 Starchief I/O 120HP

After countless hours, the deck is installed! A lot of work, but well work the final product. Here are some pictures of the progress.
 

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barato

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Oct 27, 2008
Messages
386
Re: 1968 Starchief I/O 120HP

very nice....hard to imagine having that much room.
 

STOVIE

Cadet
Joined
Apr 24, 2010
Messages
28
Re: 1968 Starchief I/O 120HP

GREAT! I was going to install the motor today, however, I overlooked the exhaust up pipe, and when I pulled the boot off, the shutter was gone. Anyone have ideas on repairing this, or where I can get a used one with a usable shutter? The casting number on my pipe is 45530, which SS to a 53272A5, which is no longer available. Thanks in advance for the help!
 

ezmobee

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 26, 2007
Messages
23,767
Re: 1968 Starchief I/O 120HP

Matt, post all your I/O questions in a new thread in the I/O repair section. Not saying an SC guy won't know it but you'll get your answers in minutes over there.
 

elkhunter338

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jun 27, 2009
Messages
818
Re: 1968 Starchief I/O 120HP

I would poke around the tansmon to make 100% she is solid. I was at the point you are at 5 yrs ago and did not replace the transom, then a year or so later I realized the corners where rotten and pulled the motor again to replace the transmon. Mine was rotten along the edges where it bolts through the boat. Is a pik or needle and poke around if there is rot you will find it.
 

STOVIE

Cadet
Joined
Apr 24, 2010
Messages
28
Re: 1968 Starchief I/O 120HP

Well after in stalling the engine, and running it, I found a couple of oil leaks. One from the rear of the engine and one from the timing cover. While running it though, the engine seemed hot? My newly purchased used gauge was not working, so I didn't know what the temp was.

We pulled the engine, dropped the oil, pulled the oil pan and the rear cap, and found that my bone head helper didn't install the rear main seal. Also found the timing cover was not completey sealing.

I got the new timing cover on ebay with all gaskets and seal for 39.98! What a steal! New rear main will be installed today. Depending on when the timing cover arrives, I could have the boat in the water in two weeks for a test run.

I'll post some pictures once we are in business.
 

fshngho

Lieutenant
Joined
Apr 1, 2009
Messages
1,332
Re: 1968 Starchief I/O 120HP

Stovie, as a quick guess, since the main seal was not installed you didn't have good oil pressure throughout the engine. That would cause overheating. Did your "helper" install any of the cooling system?:eek:
 

STOVIE

Cadet
Joined
Apr 24, 2010
Messages
28
Re: 1968 Starchief I/O 120HP

That would make sense! Once I have the engine installed and back in the boat, we will see if there is any difference.
 

elkhunter338

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jun 27, 2009
Messages
818
Re: 1968 Starchief I/O 120HP

Missing rear main seal will not effect oil pressure, the seal just keeps the oil in the engine.
But when ever you run a engine, especially a new or rebuild one I would highly recommend a working oil pressure gauge and temp gauge.
I bought a pair of small gauges (manual water temp, manual oil pressure) that are installed on my boat, mounted them close to the engine where I can see them if I turn around.
Then in the dash I have a high temp water alarm with light and buzzer and also hooked to the buzzer and light is alow oil pressure sensor (10 or 15 psi).
I have a electric water temp gauge also in the dash, but it reads wrong, says 220 temp, when actual temp is 160, but i can still look at the gauge and tell if the temp is going up then confirm with my manual gauge.
 
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