1969 Evinrude 40hp Compression and Water Pump.

[Chrisravosa36]

As some might know, I got another motor... a 69' evinrude 40hp. Im happy with it. I started it up in the barrel today, ran great, look about 5 - 15 second trys to get it started. It ran good after that. It was queit like you all said! I only ran it for about 6 mins before it was pumping very little water. the block was hot, but not to hot. I dont think it caused any damage. I got 75lb each cylinder, il check again in a little bit but is this acceptable?

 

[Chrisravosa36]

I just let it cool for a half hour, and got 90lbs on each cylinder, is this acceptable? im wondering if it would be the head gasket. Im going to remove the L.U now to check the water pump

 

[hardwater fisherman]

If you ask me if it starts, idles and runs well dont read into how high the compression is. You say they are equal so that is a good sign. Maybe try a different gauge and see what you get. Not all will read the same. After you figure out the water pump issue than you could do a decarb and then check it again. Also I think you have a thermostat, so maybe check to see if it is functioning as it should.

 

[Chrisravosa36]

Also I think you have a thermostat, so maybe check to see if it is functioning as it should.

ONCE AGAIN, IBOATS SAVES THE DAY I just pulled the thermostat to find a good amount of sand and a TERRIBLE thermostat! I luckly have an new one hanging around, and just for the hell of it Il put a new water pump in it. I bough one for my 50hp and never put it in. Il assemble the lowerunit tomm and check again for water.

 

[jimmbo]

The old stat was stuck open, If it were mine I would obtain a new Head Gasket, and pull the head to see how much sand is in the water jackets. If you still have the gearcase off I would take the stat out and flush both of the water pipes from below
I didn't think the 40 and fifty used the same impeller

 

[Chrisravosa36]

The old stat was stuck open, If it were mine I would obtain a new Head Gasket, and pull the head to see how much sand is in the water jackets. If you still have the gearcase off I would take the stat out and flush both of the water pipes from below
I didn't think the 40 and fifty used the same impeller

I got good water flow when I pumped water from the thermostat housing. I will flush i from below today, thank you! Il keep you all posted!

Also when i check both of the numbers on the parts diagram, you can use a siera aftermarket pump

 

[Chrisravosa36]

UPDATE: Im going to use the old water pump for this season, il probally change it next. When putting the lowerunit back together, the copper tubes are a PITA. I cant figure out how the shift works? does the L.U have to be in forward and so does the powerhead? does the L.U have to be and forward and the powerhead be a neutral? HELP.! :facepalm:

 

[hardwater fisherman]

The way I do it is if the lower shift rod is up then push the upper shift rod up. And if the lower shift rod is down then pull the upper one down. Also you can pry the connector apart a little bit so the shift rods will enter better. Make sure you get the screws in the slots on the shift rods.Have you removed one screw completely from the connector?

 

[Chrisravosa36]

The way I do it is if the lower shift rod is up then push the upper shift rod up. And if the lower shift rod is down then pull the upper one down. Also you can pry the connector apart a little bit so the shift rods will enter better. Make sure you get the screws in the slots on the shift rods.Have you removed one screw completely from the connector?

Yes, the top screw

 

[hardwater fisherman]

I believe if when put in reverse the shift rods move down. So push the bottom one down while spinning the prop and use the shift lever to push the upper rod into place. If the other way around you can figure it out.

 

[F_R]

Always use a flashlight to peer in there to make sure the notch in the shift rod is exactly aligned with the screw hole. If not aligned, the screw will drag on the edge of the notch, which will wipe the threads off the screw. Result: The screw will fall out. But it always happens five miles out from dockside.

 

[Chrisravosa36]

Always use a flashlight to peer in there to make sure the notch in the shift rod is exactly aligned with the screw hole. If not aligned, the screw will drag on the edge of the notch, which will wipe the threads off the screw. Result: The screw will fall out. But it always happens five miles out from dockside.

Yeah, that would suck...im having some new problems here....The water pump isnt working, I used the old one. I have to order a new one now, but is there anyway I can check and flush the WHOLE system? Im going to get a new head gasket, thermostat gasket and head water gasket. Also in the coiwling I am getting a good amount of smoke, I know nothing is burning, it is just exsaust gas, is this normal??!?! Or is this because im getting no water? a bad gsaket? help>!

Thank you all!!

 

[Chrisravosa36]

Anything? Im going to order stuff tonight so let me know if I have a bad exhaust seal?

 

[jimmbo]

Smoke in the cowl is not normal, neither is exhaust gas. There are several spots where you could have an exhaust leak. Block to midsection, exhaust cover on starboard side of engine, auto choke heat exchanger has two passages in the exhaust cover too. The exhaust idle relief has a rubber hose from the midsection to lower cowl, perhaps it is leaking. You removed the lower unit, there were two covers, one on the cowl, the other behind, on the exhaust housing to get to the shift linkage.

 

[Chrisravosa36]

Smoke in the cowl is not normal, neither is exhaust gas. There are several spots where you could have an exhaust leak. Block to midsection, exhaust cover on starboard side of engine, auto choke heat exchanger has two passages in the exhaust cover too. The exhaust idle relief has a rubber hose from the midsection to lower cowl, perhaps it is leaking. You removed the lower unit, there were two covers, one on the cowl, the other behind, on the exhaust housing to get to the shift linkage.

I think I found the problem......and its in peices. I looked for a new one, and there was only 1 result, 100$ for a piece of rubber!~! I dont really have that money right now... I just ordered a bunch of new groments and the new pump... Is there anyway I can make one myself?

 

[jimmbo]

Rollafoam from a hardware store perhaps? A piece of Heater Hose. Getting the real McCoy will make you hate us even more, as it is one piece and to install it...

 

[Chrisravosa36]

Just called the place selling the seal, and they dont have it anymore forgot to take down the add. Im going to have to make my own.....I am thinking of getting a rubber hose (THICK), placing it in place them filling it with something to hold its shape? or would a solid peace of rubber be better? Id sow the hose up and seal it.

 

[Chrisravosa36]

Rollafoam from a hardware store perhaps? A piece of Heater Hose. Getting the real McCoy will make you hate us even more, as it is one piece and to install it...

I think heater hose should work. SO I couldnt rap it around and then sew it back together? il probally filly it with something, maybe expanding foam to hold its place?

 

[jimmbo]

If the inner access hole to the shift linkage couple isn't sealed properly that would make for a major exhaust leak. I myself would try the Rollofoam, as it can be cut and the ends glued together. It might be a pain to fish it around the front. Dish soap is a good lube for that.

 

[Chrisravosa36]

If the inner access hole to the shift linkage couple isn't sealed properly that would make for a major exhaust leak. I myself would try the Rollofoam, as it can be cut and the ends glued together. It might be a pain to fish it around the front. Dish soap is a good lube for that.

Could you send me a picture or link to rollofoam, I cant find anything but sheets of foam?