1969 johnson 115hp hydro-electric neutral/reverse

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May 13, 2009
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Has anybody heard if this motor needs 2 battery. One for starting and one for neutral and reverse. Thanks
 

tashasdaddy

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Re: 1969 johnson 115hp hydro-electric neutral/reverse

NO!! but motor must be running to shift.

Hydro Electric Shift)
(J. Reeves)

The shifting setup of the lower unit is what's called a "Hydro Electric Shift", which is quite complex consisting of voltage being applied to solenoids in the lower unit which in turn change oil passages via a oil pump that supplies various pressure on a spring loaded shifter dog. The wires leading to the lower unit (at the powerhead) are "Green" and "Blue". The engine must be running or cranking over in order to shift out of forward gear.

You CAN NOT use HI VIS lube in that lower unit. You MUST USE what OMC calls "Premium Blend" lube, commonly called "Type C". (A thinner lube)

In neutral, you need 12v to the "Green" wire.
In reverse, you need 12v to both wires, the "Green" one and the "Blue" one.
In forward, there should be no voltage to either wire. (The spring loaded shifter dog forces the unit into forward gear)

To check the lower unit for proper shifting to make sure you have no trouble there, remove the spark plugs to avoid problems and to allow a higher cranking speed.

This next step eliminates the actual shift switch in case problems may exist there.... Disconnect the blue & green wires at the knife connectors (the rubber insulated boots) leading to the lower unit at the powerhead, then using jumpers, take voltage direct from the starter solenoid to apply voltage to the "Green" wire for neutral, then both wires 'Green" & "Blue" for reverse (Remember the engine must be cranking over in order to shift).
With no voltage applied, the unit should be in forward. No need for a ground jumper... the lower unit's already grounded. You may crank the engine with the key switch or by energizing the starter solenoid with a jumper wire.
 

R.Johnson

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Re: 1969 johnson 115hp hydro-electric neutral/reverse

What would happen if you used Hi-Vis lube in this gearcase. Do you have any exsperience with this. It's constantly stressed that the higher grade lube's cant be used in this gearcase. Why not? What would the result be? I ran a 1972, 125 on a 15.5 ft. Checkmate for years on Hi-Vis, and later the new synthetic's with no problems what so ever. That engine was reworked, and jacked as high as it would go with a 24 in" Raker prop. You certainly want the best lube possible for that. Somebody is going to come back with, " Those engineer's know better"',and they most certainly do, but those better lube's were not around when that gearcase was made.
 

rockyrude

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Re: 1969 johnson 115hp hydro-electric neutral/reverse

You CANNOT use hi-vis in that unit, it is too thick for the pump. That is hydro-electric meaning oil is pumped around to accomplish shifting. If it doesn't toast the pump, you'll definitely have shifting troubles.
 
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Re: 1969 johnson 115hp hydro-electric neutral/reverse

Ive done all the voltage tests Thats good. Tested the lower unit and getting between 4.8 to 8.0 ohms. I do have the manual and it says it should be 5 to 7 ohms Could my lower solenoids be shot or a short somewhere and I do have type C gear oil in the lower unit THANKS
 

R.Johnson

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Re: 1969 johnson 115hp hydro-electric neutral/reverse

Rockrude: That pump is submerged in oil, and the gearcase is submerged in water. I run that engine for years with no I'll affect. As I said, you can hook that gearcase to a battery, and shift it to neutral, or reverse with a speed wrench. I know I can't twist a speed wrench any where near the speed of an electric starter. Before you tell me something won't work, what is your exsperience with this gearcase using the later lube's. If you were talking from exsperience, you would know that this gearcase will shift very easily at very low RPM with the later lubes, but then I'm guessing you are repeating what you were told. In mechanic's, there is a lot of pressure involved when a drive shaft make's a right angle, As in prop shaft horse power, versus crankshaft horse power. tell me why you would use a poorer lube if you don't have to. What happened when you tried what I'm talking about. I'm not talking about something I tried, I'm talking about something I did for several year's
 

tx1961whaler

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May 31, 2008
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Re: 1969 johnson 115hp hydro-electric neutral/reverse

Rockrude: That pump is submerged in oil, and the gearcase is submerged in water. I run that engine for years with no I'll affect. As I said, you can hook that gearcase to a battery, and shift it to neutral, or reverse with a speed wrench. I know I can't twist a speed wrench any where near the speed of an electric starter. Before you tell me something won't work, what is your exsperience with this gearcase using the later lube's. If you were talking from exsperience, you would know that this gearcase will shift very easily at very low RPM with the later lubes, but then I'm guessing you are repeating what you were told. In mechanic's, there is a lot of pressure involved when a drive shaft make's a right angle, As in prop shaft horse power, versus crankshaft horse power. tell me why you would use a poorer lube if you don't have to. What happened when you tried what I'm talking about. I'm not talking about something I tried, I'm talking about something I did for several year's

Not disagreeing with you, but I've never personally seen a lower end bearing failure that was due to the type of lubricant used; it was always due to neglected water intrusion.
 

R.Johnson

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Re: 1969 johnson 115hp hydro-electric neutral/reverse

What I liked about the hydro- electric drive with the Johnson single lever control, it made docking , or putting a boat on a trailer a snap. It you kept watch that it had no water leak's, it really gave very little mechanical problem's. I doubt if that gearcase was discontinued because of it's design. It could not have been cheap to manufacture. This post was not made for the sake of argument, but when someone make's a flat statement, " that won't work" where are you coming from? In my shop, I have three metal lathe's, a verticaL mill, with many attachment's, small engine boring machine, grinder''s, and just about any measuring instrument you could want. I have a fair idea of how thing's work.
 

tx1961whaler

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Re: 1969 johnson 115hp hydro-electric neutral/reverse

I never had a hydro-electric; only electramatic. Totally different beasts. I ran 80-90W for years, because I didn't know Type C even existed. Didn't seem to hurt anything, but an electramatic is just a couple of big electromagnets slopping things around. The thinner Type C oil might have made a difference in very cold waters, but I was in Fla at the time.
 
Joined
May 13, 2009
Messages
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Re: 1969 johnson 115hp hydro-electric neutral/reverse

Thanks for the help guys. Its the neutral soleniod thats shot. Thanks again
:)Jay:)
 
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