1969 Johnson 40 horse ignition problem

[skunkydan]

Re: 1969 Johnson 40 horse ignition problem

Well, now I have another question. Inside my remote control, there is the end of the cable connected to the red lever for, I believe, the neutral switch. Is the end of this, the bow facing end, supposed to be conected to something? Im wondering if something has broken off that is supposed to connect to the switch that the blue and green wires are attached to.

 

[kevin88]

Re: 1969 Johnson 40 horse ignition problem

I think outside of the 3 wires I described on your switch there is only 2 more circuits to deal with in the entire control set. One would be the neutral switch and the other the kill switch. The kill switch would be a switch that doesn't click. It has to be held in place usually by a plastic clip from the outside. And one wire from this switch would go directly to the ground. That same ground connection should also have a connection made to it from the ignition switch to also kill the motor when the ignition key is turned off.<br />I hope this helps...

 

[skunkydan]

Re: 1969 Johnson 40 horse ignition problem

Ok now im not sure which wire would go to the B terminal. I have a white wire left, which I think goes to start and found a grey wire cut/broke of back down in the harness. In not sure about the grey, cannot find where it goes at the motor. I did find a 6 inch piece of yellow jumper wire,on the floor of the boat, that I think I remember seeing attached to the battery side of the ammeter/volt meter. Whould this have been used to jump over to the B terminal on the ignition?

 

[kevin88]

Re: 1969 Johnson 40 horse ignition problem

Using your multimeter check all the wires for voltage when the battery is hooked up. The wire you need to hook to the B terminal on the keyswitch will have a constant 12 Volts to it. (a wire coming directly from the ammeter should have a constant 12 volts) <br /><br />The wire that goes to the S terminal will connect to the starter solenoid at the other end.<br /><br />The grey wire that was cut may have been for the safety kill switch. If so then leaving it disconnected won't hurt.

 

[skunkydan]

Re: 1969 Johnson 40 horse ignition problem

^

 

[skunkydan]

Re: 1969 Johnson 40 horse ignition problem

BUMP

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: 1969 Johnson 40 horse ignition problem

Ok, I might be totally confused but I'll give it a shot.<br />The Volt/Ammeter ought to have three connections on it. <br />One goes (ultimately) to ground (battery -/neg/black) <br />Another wire ought to go to +12v (battery positive/+/red), perhaps via a fuse. If you have an unmolested OMC wiring harness (ha!) it'll be kind of heavy and red, and come back from the engine.<br />A third wire ought to go from the volt/ammeter to 'Batt' on your ignition switch. There also ought to be a heavy orange wire coming from the engine that attaches to either the terminal on the volt/ammeter or the 'Batt' terminal on the ignition switch.<br /><br />You ought to have two thin black wires. One may have a tracer. Each should connect to one 'M' Terminal.<br />The grey wire is a ground for the tachometer. If you don't have one, just leave it unattached. <br />The wite wire ought to go back to one of the small terminals on the starter solenoid under the motor cover. Connect this to the 'S' terminal on your keyswitch.<br />Any purple wires can connect to the 'A' terminal, except for the purple with white stripe coming from the engine. Tell me where all the purple wires go.<br />If you bought a keyswitch with an intergral choke, the purple-with-white stripe wire from the engine should connect to the 'C' terminal on the keyswitch.<br /><br />I hope this helps get you going!

 

[tawan/jack]

Re: 1969 Johnson 40 horse ignition problem

Hello iboat members<br /> I'm in search of key ignition system schematics for a 1971 Johnson 115. My husband thinks he's "THE ELECTRICIAN"! Someone please help us.<br /> <br /> T . I . A<br /><br />e-mail address<tawan@bellsouth.net

 

[skunkydan]

Re: 1969 Johnson 40 horse ignition problem

Thanks Paul, that helped. I finally got a good manual also and did all the test they suggested. I got a new ignition and then wired it correctly, the same as you suggested. I had to rewire the motor, as most of the wiring was very old and brittle, many of them broken. That done I did more meter tests until I was satisfied that my readings were as they should be. With plug wires of, I turned the key and prayed. She turned over. YES!!. Then I tipped the motor into a big rubber barrel and filled it with water and then turned the key. It sputered and popped for a second and then started, idles fine, although it kinda shakes a bit. Throttled up and away it went, forward and reverse. Seems to be working well. Water is shooting out the pee hole, but I am going to replace the impeller anyway. So after some time and a lot of frustration and head scratching, the end result is satisfactory so far. Just want to say thanks again for everyones help and suggestions and will let you know how it works on the water this weekend, if I can get my next problem solved, makeshift some steering for this ship, I dont want to use the existing cable and pully steering. Thanks again.

 

[CATransplant]

Re: 1969 Johnson 40 horse ignition problem

Good job, skunkydan! Keep us all up to date!

 

[skunkydan]

Re: 1969 Johnson 40 horse ignition problem

>

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: 1969 Johnson 40 horse ignition problem

Good news there skunkydan!<br /><br />But is there something you need help with? The steering?

 

[skunkydan]

Re: 1969 Johnson 40 horse ignition problem

OK well I got the steering figured out, works like a charm. So out to the lake we go for a test drive and it started well. We idled out of the no wake zone and I hit the gas slowly, it throttled up but at W.O.T it was only running at 1/4 speed. I went along like that, throttling up and down for a while but nothing changed. My friend reached back and turned the slow speed screw (im really not sure what he did exactly or how far he went) but from then on things got bad. Then I couldnt even get it to start. When I pulled the plugs the top one looked good, the lower one had some oil deposits but not wet. As I used the electric motor to get us in,( thank God I hooked it up)he started messing with the throttle screws and the adjusting rod. I didnt notice what he was doing till he said he needed a hand to hold the rod while he set the screw in place. So instead of getting mad at him, which just wastes time and energy, I just want to get it fixed. Im trying to figure out this link and synch you keep talking about as this could be a problem, timing out between fuel and spark. He was also turning the spark advance screw on top of the motor and dont know what that did.. So now I just need to get it back to running so I can make some correct adjustments. He just wanted to help but it has caused some problems. Also the plugs called for in the manual are J4J but I cannot find that number, was wondering about crossref numbers for champion or NCK.<br />Dan

 

[skunkydan]

Re: 1969 Johnson 40 horse ignition problem

Also as my son was getting out of the boat he hit the red warmup lever and broke the handle off, can this part still be found?

 

[lark2004]

Re: 1969 Johnson 40 horse ignition problem

I don't know about your lever, but the plugs for that motor are now J6C, gapped at .030".<br /><br />It might be a good idea to get manual for the engine now, if you need to do a lynk and sync.

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: 1969 Johnson 40 horse ignition problem

I like the J4C for that engine, but the J6C will be better for low speed running. Both are available from Canadian Tire. <br />Here's a description on how you sync that engine:<br /> http://www.iboats.com/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=28;t=033290#000006 <br />And another one on basically the same thing, but there's the throttle advance link that may have been played with:<br /> http://www.iboats.com/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=28;t=033798 <br />And Joe Reeves' instructions for setting the carb:<br /> http://www.iboats.com/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=28;t=030558#000001 <br /><br />Check your spark and see if you can jump a good 1/4" or so with it, on both cylinders. Could be a cracked ignition coil. If you get it started, try pumping the primer bulb while it's running and note the results.

 

[skunkydan]

Re: 1969 Johnson 40 horse ignition problem

Thanks Lark and Paul. I decided to replace the points, because the motor had sat for a while and hope it will assure good spark. Also I needed to remove the flywheel to access the carb and manifold and other parts that I cannot see. I am also working around the generator and may remove it also. When using the puller, one bolt snapped off in the flywheel, so now I need to chase it out and find a good bolt, something harder. I found a warmup lever, 22 bucks, so that is solved. I am looking forward to getting this thing set back up the correct way and have faith that your advice will pay off. Paul the pictures in the link help and shows me exactly what to look for, although the screw in the carb shaft is different than mine but I should figure it out. It also explained alot about how my throttle is supposed to work and gave me a much better understanding of my motor. Thanks again guys. I will let you know tomoorow how I am making out. I HAVE to have this motor done and working well before sept 12. Wish me luck.

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: 1969 Johnson 40 horse ignition problem

Good luck! <br /><br />Often, when a puller bolt breaks in the flywheel, it's relatively easy to remove it. If you've got a dremel, you can carve a little slot into it and wind it out with a screwdriver. Or left-hand drill bits and ez-outs work here (don't use ez-outs on any other sheared bolts thought!).<br />Get grade 8 bolts, tighten up the puller (about 40-50 foot/lbs), lift up on the puller/flywheel and give the puller bolt a whack with a hammer. Tighten and repeat.<br />If that doesn't work, try penetrating oil, heat, and time (when using time leave the nut threaded on a bit, as sometimes it leaps right off the crankshaft!).<br />That pic is actually from a (junk) '63 28hp. So it's not suprising your 69 40hp is a little different. If you look closely, you'll see there's no reed plate behind the manifold.

 

[skunkydan]

Re: 1969 Johnson 40 horse ignition problem

Ok wellI messed up, broke the end off 2 easy outs so I drilled the hole and retapped for a bigger bolt, did all three holes and the threads pulled out each timeand also broke a chip out the top around one hole. I dont know what to do now. I should have tried the time thing but didnt. I have another flywheel off of another 40 horse that I found but need to get the old one off first. I wonder if the key in the keyway got twisted and is making it stick. I would send a picture of the damage if I could figure out how, not that it would matter much as Im sure you have seen an "OOPS" before.

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: 1969 Johnson 40 horse ignition problem

Well, I suppose I deserve my fingers broken for suggesting an EZout. So you've gone to 5/16" and you've still stripped out? If so, I think you are looking at using that spare flywheel for sure. Cut the old flywheel off and cut along the hub to relieve it from the crank taper. Once you've got whats left of the old flywheel off, post back (telling us what you've found by way of the key) and we'll instruct you on lapping the replacement flywheel so it doesn't shear the key again.<br /><br />If you want, email me the pics at paul.moir@ns.sympatico.ca and I'll post them for you.