1970 4 hp evinrude update

[joejoe]

sorry for the long post of copy and paste i just cant figure this out and wanted all to know what i'm going thru. Help <br />Topic: 1970 4 hp floods out. update on carb rebuilt <br />joejoe <br />Captain <br />Member # 3811 <br />Rate Member <br /> posted August 22, 2001 03:40 PM <br />--------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br />Hi, we rebuilt the carb and this thing takes like 30 pulls to get it started, once running we adjusted the slow and fast speed to the engine seemed to be running good. After the engine is ran it does not wont to restart unless you are willing to pull another 30 times. To begin with we had the low speed turned out 1 1/4 turns and the high speed turned out 1 turn then adjusted accordinly. we have tryed 2 different float settings one of them being dead leval when the carb is turned upside down and the other slightly over dead level. We had noted that while the engine is running and we shut it off are it dies fuel is flowing out the font of the carb by the choke. any ideals would be greatly appreciated. Thank-You <br />--------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br />Posts: 17 | From: | Registered: Aug 2001 | IP: Logged <br /> <br />byordy <br />Captain <br />Member # 3761 <br />Member Rated:<br /> <br /> posted August 22, 2001 04:35 PM <br />--------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br />Hi joejoe,<br />It's hard to say with so little detail, but the first thing I would check is the needle and seat. If the float is fully closing then the needle may not be seating properly in the seat. Possibly a worn needle or seat or both. It could also be the gasket between the seat and the carb body.<br />The float may also be sticking or hanging up if the pivot shaft is not properly centered in the carb bowl, or the small spring between the needle and the float is misaligned or missing (not all carbs have this spring).<br />I'm not sure about the float level, but make sure that it will fully close the needle valve when it's in the full "up" position. While holding the float in the full "up" or "full bowl" position you can blow through the fuel inlet to the carb to verify this; no air should pass through. Conversly with the float in the down or "empty bowl" position air should pass through. The float level is not as critical on carbs with adjustable jets as it is on fixed jet carbs.<br />Good Luck,<br />Bill........ <br />--------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br />Posts: 18 | From: Gulfport MS. | Registered: Aug 2001 | IP: Logged <br /> <br />joejoe <br />Captain <br />Member # 3811 <br />Rate Member <br /> posted August 22, 2001 05:27 PM <br />--------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br />Thx much that solved the problem of the fuel running out the front of the carb. Now it will start and run fine for a few seconds and then dies. do i have a lemom here or what? really confused here in Iowa

 

[corm]

Re: 1970 4 hp evinrude update

Have you checked the head gasket, had one like that a few yrs ago.<br />corm

 

[joejoe]

Re: 1970 4 hp evinrude update

No Corm, I have not checked the head gasket yet, still waiting on my darn book from kencook. man there slow. to check the head gasket do i just remove the head a see what it looks like and replace with a new one or is there a way to test it to see if it is bad? thx Sorry for pesterin ya all.

 

[byordy]

Re: 1970 4 hp evinrude update

Mornin'<br />Once again it's hard to say but if it only runs for a few seconds it sounds like the misture is not adjusted correctly. If it runs longer, say 10 seconds or so, then it could be a fuel delivery problem. <br />Start with the low and high speed jets set at the factory recomended setting (this is important). Some body on the board is bound to have that information. Then with the throttle set at the start position or slightly faster slowly adjust the high speed jet for the smoothest operation. Then slow the motor down until it wants to stall or is running at a slow trolling speed and adjust the low speed jet slowly for best idle. Go back and forth several times for the best overall operation.<br />If the motor won't run slowly then try this procedure. If it seems to die lean, (spits, misses, etc.) richen the low speed jet a small amount (1/16th of a turn or so) and try again. If it seems to die rich, (loads up, lopes, etc.) lean the misture a small amount and try again. Sooner or later, if the carb is operating correctly, you'll hit the combination that will allow the motor to continue to run, and then you can make the final adjustments.<br />If that doesn't cure the problem, and fuel delivery is ok then you probably still have a problem with the carb, probably a clogged passage or less likely an intenal leak. It's also possible that the float is now sticking closed and not allowing the bowl to refill as the fuel is burned. Less likely but remotely possible is that the crankcase compression is low, possibly due to fualty crankcase seals. Let's leave that possibility for last. <br />To determine if there is a fuel delivery problem and the motor has an external tank, pump the bulb while trying to keep the motor running. The bulb should be hard and fuel should not be spurting from anywhere. If the bulb does not remain hard and pumping it seems to make the motor run better then you may have a fuel pump problem, or an obstruction in the gas line, clogged filter, etc.<br />If you don't have an external tank on that motor then the fuel system is gravity feed and there are fewer possible problem areas. Make sure that the filter, if present, is clear and fuel actually flows to the inlet on the carb. Also insure that you have fresh fuel and the proper oil mix.<br />If none of this cures the problem and you determine that the fuel delivery system is ok, then it's time to check the other areas, (headgasket as corm suggests, etc.)<br />Good Luck,<br />Bill.........

 

[corm]

Re: 1970 4 hp evinrude update

The factory head gaskets in the older small motors did not have metal sealing rings and would leak causing hard to trace problems.<br />The new gaskets have a metal sealing ring and work better. You could try a compression test to see if one cyl is low. Or just get a new one and then take the head off and replace it, you'll need one sooner or later anyway. Bill's info is good to.<br />...have fun...corm<br />BTW, is the gasket sealing around the center pickup tube inside the carb? The little round one