1970 gulfstream makeover... Somewhat

[Rickmerrill]

Hum, I didn't have that problem with dust but I did manage to get resin right where i didn't need it so that's when you really need em. I think I got like 15 for less than $20 on Amazon or ebay but shipping might be a killer to HI. Don't know. May not be cost effective for you but you're already way better off with the full face which I'm sure you know by now!

 

[kcassells]

So solid stock is better for the stringers or just the keel? I thought that ply has more sheer strength when stood on end due to all the opposing grains. Sort of like a scaled down glue lam beam. Could you explain further please?

Solid stock for the keel only. Ply for the rest. I'll pm you, can't seem to copy and past. If yours was ply then I would go back with that.

 

[kcassells]

As Wood described to me earlier; "If you'll notice the hull structure on fiberglass boats, the "Keel" is hollowed out and normally the thickest laminations in the boat. many times if the hull has extends below like this one but is not a stringer that extends up to the deck.That cavity is filled with PB and a wooden insert and that's all and it's not considered structural. If however there is a center "stringer" that does go up to the underside of the deck it would be considered structural. However the shape of the fiberglass would still support most of the boatloads under 25'" A little choppy but I hope you get it.

 

[Woodonglass]

Did I say that!!! Hmm...I must have been on Drugs!!! You should be Vewy vewy careful when taking adwice fwum an Old Dumb Okie!!!!

Hey, kinaiahi61, I'd like to invite you to "PIN" youself on our Members Map in the Sticky Section of the Restoration Forum. That way the rest of us would know where you are and if we're ever in your area we could drop by a mooch some coffee off'n ya!!!!
Click Here To Enter Your Location on the iBoats Member Map

 

[kinaiahi61]

Did I say that!!! Hmm...I must have been on Drugs!!! You should be Vewy vewy careful when taking adwice fwum an Old Dumb Okie!!!!

Hey, kinaiahi61, I'd like to invite you to "PIN" youself on our Members Map in the Sticky Section of the Restoration Forum. That way the rest of us would know where you are and if we're ever in your area we could drop by a mooch some coffee off'n ya!!!!
Click Here To Enter Your Location on the iBoats Member Map

I added my location but don't think anyone will be by to drink coffee anytime soon unless you come to Kauai, Hawaii. There's no other pins around me. Gonna try and go to Walmart today and set the fan up like you suggested, to pull the dust away. I know when I worked on the Livingston, I had the large shopvac going while I was grinding. But that was no where near the area compared to this. Gotta figure something better though. I would hate to upset the neighbor behind me with dust flying into their house. On the last boat I was able to grind it at my parents house on acreage. They have since sold and moved to Texas, so I'm stuck grinding in my back yard. It is what it is. I tarped it best I can and will try the tips. Again, thanks for all the input. Aloha and have a great day!!!

 

[kinaiahi61]

Any ideas on how to keep drains open (drain the boat hull from bow to stern along stringers), yet use pourable foam? I was thinking of a pvc against the stringer with holes drilled in it. The holes would face the area where the stringer meets the hull (the angle) so it wouldn't fill with foam. Then if water, or more like when water gets in it could still drain through the limber holes in the rear, right into the live bait well or ikima (what its called in Hawaii). I would close the holes off with garboard drains or brass tubes with drain plugs. I tried looking for a solution but really haven't found one. I guess if I just foamed it too and made sure that the limber holes were open, the water would flow to the back also when the hull is raised.

 

[Woodonglass]

Uhmmm, this has been discussed Ad Infinitum here on the forum. LOTS of different methods have been devised but none to my knowledge have been done with a great deal of success. I've never posted this but here's what I've been thinking of so take it for what its worth. If you used a piece of 1/2" slap foam and cut 1" strips and laid them down on the hull and then laid a sheet of the slab foam on top of them they would form channels under the sheet. You could then pour your foam on top of the slab foam. The pressure exerted during the expansion of the foam might be enuf to push the slab foam down into the channels but I don't think it would push it down all the way and there would be enuf space left that if water did get into the hull it could drain back to the transom/bilge and be removed. Anywho that's my "BrainStorm" on the issue. If you do a search, you'll prolly find a plethera of others. But I'm a firm believer that with good care and maintenance a properly installed and sealed deck should not allow water to penetrate below the deck and only a catastrophic event should be or worry and you will have other issues to deal with in that event so drainage should not be a worry.

This "Bad" drawing might illustrate what I'm trying to say. This shows the deck, two stringers the yellow pour in foam, pink slab foam and the cut strips making the channels with the blue hull below. Hopefully you get the idea.

 

[Woodonglass]

I added my location but don't think anyone will be by to drink coffee anytime soon unless you come to Kauai, Hawaii. There's no other pins around me. Gonna try and go to Walmart today and set the fan up like you suggested, to pull the dust away. I know when I worked on the Livingston, I had the large shopvac going while I was grinding. But that was no where near the area compared to this. Gotta figure something better though. I would hate to upset the neighbor behind me with dust flying into their house. On the last boat I was able to grind it at my parents house on acreage. They have since sold and moved to Texas, so I'm stuck grinding in my back yard. It is what it is. I tarped it best I can and will try the tips. Again, thanks for all the input. Aloha and have a great day!!!

Hey ya never know. A LOT of people vacation in Hawaii and they just might wanna come by and say Aloha!!! If I ever do, I WILL!!!!!

 

[kinaiahi61]

Hey ya never know. A LOT of people vacation in Hawaii and they just might wanna come by and say Aloha!!! If I ever do, I WILL!!!!!

Come on by and we can have some coffee and some great food. I quit drinking alcohol 4 years ago, but coffee is definitely still a go. Hopefully the boat will be done and the tuna running. Could try and put you on a big tuna.

 

[kcassells]

Did I say that!!! Hmm...I must have been on Drugs!!! You should be Vewy vewy careful when taking adwice fwum an Old Dumb Okie!!!!
Hey, kinaiahi61, I'd like to invite you to "PIN" youself on our Members Map in the Sticky Section of the Restoration Forum. That way the rest of us would know where you are and if we're ever in your area we could drop by a mooch some coffee off'n ya!!!!
Click Here To Enter Your Location on the iBoats Member Map

No your weren't on drugs I was on my first coffee. Post shows shows 7:20 but that is really 6:20 am with me running late to get out to work. I wasn't able to copy/post or pm him the info so I was like,..yea yea a stenographer.

 

[kcassells]

Uhmmm, this has been discussed Ad Infinitum here on the forum. LOTS of different methods have been devised but none to my knowledge have been done with a great deal of success. I've never posted this but here's what I've been thinking of so take it for what its worth. If you used a piece of 1/2" slap foam and cut 1" strips and laid them down on the hull and then laid a sheet of the slab foam on top of them they would form channels under the sheet. You could then pour your foam on top of the slab foam. The pressure exerted during the expansion of the foam might be enuf to push the slab foam down into the channels but I don't think it would push it down all the way and there would be enuf space left that if water did get into the hull it could drain back to the transom/bilge and be removed. Anywho that's my "BrainStorm" on the issue. If you do a search, you'll prolly find a plethera of others. But I'm a firm believer that with good care and maintenance a properly installed and sealed deck should not allow water to penetrate below the deck and only a catastrophic event should be or worry and you will have other issues to deal with in that event so drainage should not be a worry. This "Bad" drawing might illustrate what I'm trying to say. This shows the deck, two stringers the yellow pour in foam, pink slab foam and the cut strips making the channels with the blue hull below. Hopefully you get the idea.

Wog...Hmm once again you have as usual "IMPRESSED ME" I have been didiling along that concept forawhile. I was gonna put the pink foam on an angle against the stringer making a channel and some around the limber holes. Then use the pour in foam. In Spainish your title phonetically would be pronounced "Henio" spelled wrong. {means genious}.
Kripes being a plumber sometimes we plug pipes that weren't stopping water so we couldn't solder to repair {in the old days} with bread or jelly beans. Then when the water came back on they dissolved. I was thinking of laying some loaves of bread or pcs. in the channel then por the foam and wet it out gradually.
I like your idea.

Kin there is another practice of "bagging the pour" . So what you do is por the foam into a good trash bag laid in the are you want, partially fill it then when dry you can lift it out hence it does not actually obstruct the channel, then you can make another pour over that thru the deck. Like the man said there are alot of discussions and positions related to the foam topic.

 

[kinaiahi61]

Wog...Hmm once again you have as usual "IMPRESSED ME" I have been didiling along that concept forawhile. I was gonna put the pink foam on an angle against the stringer making a channel and some around the limber holes. Then use the pour in foam. In Spainish your title phonetically would be pronounced "Henio" spelled wrong. {means genious**.
Kripes being a plumber sometimes we plug pipes that weren't stopping water so we couldn't solder to repair {in the old days** with bread or jelly beans. Then when the water came back on they dissolved. I was thinking of laying some loaves of bread or pcs. in the channel then por the foam and wet it out gradually.
I like your idea.

Kin there is another practice of "bagging the pour" . So what you do is por the foam into a good trash bag laid in the are you want, partially fill it then when dry you can lift it out hence it does not actually obstruct the channel, then you can make another pour over that thru the deck. Like the man said there are alot of discussions and positions related to the foam topic.

Thanks guys. Ive read a lot of the foam topics, but none seemed like the right solution. Both of you have put good examples, I guess I'll cross that bridge when I get there. Went to Walmart, got the box fan, went back to HD to get the AC filter since Walmart didn't have any. Also picked up some 1/2"x7" bolts, nuts, washers for the transom clamp. Also got the deck screws, went with 1 5/8", figured I could use those to tie the deck in also and then PB the holes like the transom. They'll probably stick through a little on the transom glue. Is it better to go with the 1 1/4", figured the 1 5/8" would grab more?

 

[kcassells]

Well me being me mechanically speaking I would not want the holes to pentrate thru the transom completely. Too many fills. Then again if you are going to usr the screws to bind the transom together, remove fill holes with pb then pb the entire back of the transom prior to install that should also be ok. i may have missed something in the thread but you could also put some glass on the transom prior to attaching it to the transom skin.

 

[saginawbayboater]

Any ideas on how to keep drains open (drain the boat hull from bow to stern along stringers), yet use pourable foam? I was thinking of a pvc against the stringer with holes drilled in it. The holes would face the area where the stringer meets the hull (the angle) so it wouldn't fill with foam. Then if water, or more like when water gets in it could still drain through the limber holes in the rear, right into the live bait well or ikima (what its called in Hawaii). I would close the holes off with garboard drains or brass tubes with drain plugs. I tried looking for a solution but really haven't found one. I guess if I just foamed it too and made sure that the limber holes were open, the water would flow to the back also when the hull is raised.

kinaiahi61 It is my opinion that every compartment, below the water line, containing poured in foam should be sealed. I wrestled with the same issue, and at the end of the day if there are drains under the foam those drains are also direct entry points for water. Just a Thought!!! Nice Boat!!! :thumb:


Also if you have a hull penetration and you have provided drians back to the bilge and the bilge pump can't keep up you may sink. if you have foamed and sealed compartments and have a hull penetration you shouldn't sink.

 

[Rickmerrill]

Same here. Decided to put my efforts towards waterproofing everything down below and keeping water out. Hopefully I did a better job than the mfg and their's lasted 20 years.

 

[kinaiahi61]

Well me being me mechanically speaking I would not want the holes to pentrate thru the transom completely. Too many fills. Then again if you are going to usr the screws to bind the transom together, remove fill holes with pb then pb the entire back of the transom prior to install that should also be ok. i may have missed something in the thread but you could also put some glass on the transom prior to attaching it to the transom skin.

I was going to do this prior to installation just to glue the two pieces of 3/4" ply together. Remove screws, fill with PB, seal in mat, then install into the boat using 1/2" bolts and 2x4s. The screws might poke through during the glue process, that's it.

 

[kinaiahi61]

I see the point of sealing up the cavities. However it seems like water gets into everything. What about condensation? Just seems like moisture is going to get in no matter what and it would be nice to be able to drain it out. Aaaggghhhhh. Decisions, decisions. Keeps me up at night

 

[kinaiahi61]

I am probably just wayyyyy overthinking this. I should just seal it all up, makes sense!!!

 

[kcassells]

I was going to do this prior to installation just to glue the two pieces of 3/4" ply together. Remove screws, fill with PB, seal in mat, then install into the boat using 1/2" bolts and 2x4s. The screws might poke through during the glue process, that's it.

Thas perfectly fine with that approach.

 

[kcassells]

I see the point of sealing up the cavities. However it seems like water gets into everything. What about condensation? Just seems like moisture is going to get in no matter what and it would be nice to be able to drain it out. Aaaggghhhhh. Decisions, decisions. Keeps me up at night😫

Yup... thats cause your moving nice and quick on your project and HAVE to make a decision. On the other hand alot of guys like me, well there projects end up taking longer mostly due to time and weather changes. I have to start wrapping my boat up till next spring and that sucks.
BUT like you I'm still on the fence about the foam and drains. Hmmm...boat...ocean...rain...drain lol? Other days I almost feel like I have to give in and just foam the cavities. But I have to make that decision next summer!