1971 100 hp complete tuning sequence (can't find detailed instructions)

[thelegion]

So after a few posts and some GREAT advice on a few fixes, I am still having a "HELL" of a time with tuning. I have a shop manual but honestly it stinks, there seems to be way to much missing for tuning. I have followed the detailed instructions posted here on dialling in the slow speed needles but my shop manual seems to be the opposite in directions, at least in part. I can get the motor to run and idol, starts great only when warm, bogs at low speed, when I get that sorta tuned it won't rev out at WOT; so round and round I go.

Does any one know where I can find a step by guide dummies guide for tuning, Ive searched the whole johnson forum and it doesn't seem to exist.

:frusty:

 

[F_R]

The slow speed needles have nothing to do with high speed operation. I don't know of any printed material such as you speak of.

 

[thelegion]

No I understand that about the SS needles, even my shop manual doesn't have any base points for linkage start points or even the idol. The manual shows the idol screw but offers no advice on first settings, there are a lot of things I can do to get the motor to idol nice without using the idol screw but it wouldn't tune right in the end.

Some advice like "start by disconnecting the throttle cable" set the gizmo "A" to just touch the flicker flacker, make sure the flicker flacker has screw "B" extended, now you can tune the whatcha macallit till you get a nice idol.

But NOOOOOO :facepalm:

 

[F_R]

What shop manual do you have?? My 1972 100hp Factory Service Manual tells all about the flickers and flackers and how they relate to the whatcha. But I can't guarantee it is the same for 1971.

 

[thelegion]

My manual is pdf file I bought a few years ago, only says "eblue-dist 2007" at the top of each page and has no formal cover; it's covers 68-72 years or there abouts.

 

[F_R]

Here ya go---
http://www.iboats.com/1971-Evinrude...2361361--session_id.728372680--view_id.439170

 

[thelegion]

from F_R another post

Very common problem.

Disconnect the throttle cable at the motor end. Now grab the lever with your fingers (where the cable was attached), and observe the timer base advance as you move the bottom end of the lever (not running). It should go to full advance with very little movement of the carburetors. It is only when it reaches full advance that the carbs make significant opening.

However, if the timer base is sticky, it will lag while the carbs open too soon. If it does that while running, it will fall on it's face, maybe even stall. Cure is get rid of the stickiness by cleaning and relubing the timer base mounting.


So I re-built mine the other day, fresh lube (white grease) and although works much better but there still seems to be some lag and I feel it's due to the coil spring between the throttle lever and the timer base arm, it may be installed wrong or weak. I installed it the way I took it off but if that was wrong to begin with this may be another problem or it's just weak. Should putting the spring back on be like wrestling a python to get the correct tension? and what is the best lubricant for this?

thanks...

 

[F_R]

Might be the grease. I don't know what the '71 book says, but '72 says use oil. Could also be drag caused by tight or hardened/stiff wires. On a good day, that spring is just strong enough to do it's job---just. I don't think that is your problem. Darned if I remember if it might be the pivot on the vertical levers, or exactly how they fit together.

 

[jbuote]

Might be the grease. I don't know what the '71 book says, but '72 says use oil.

I think I can cite another source as well...

I know mine is a 50hp, but in my 71' Factory Service manual, it tells me that the timer base has a cast -in brass bushing which rotates on the upper bearing and seal assembly
You should check for dirt, chips or damage could interfere with the rotating of the base.
​Then it says to use oil on the nylon retainer that goes on with 4 clips and screws.

​Based on the description in my manual, this is all under my stator...

​I know yours is a different ignition than mine, but maybe the same mechanism for timer base? I can't say for sure, but in any event,

Just like F_R, ​Mine also says Oil...

​For whatever that might be worth..

 

[thelegion]

Yah the timer base is still definitely lagging behind the throttle and yes the timer base wire was binding on the metal wire guide that holds it down from the flywheel but I fixed that. I completely took them all apart and cleaned them, but that darn spring keeps me thinking its that. It's all so close to being right but I guess that's all part n parcel for a 46 yr old motor, when I get it and remember how to repeat it I'm getting a nice bottle of scotch.

I may be over thinking it as well, but cleanliness is definitely the key to these motors and the linkages. The motor I saw on u tube running had the timer base move perfectly with the throttle; I'll explore it more in the morning.

As far as the low speed needles go, my book says to start 1.5 turns out from closed and continue out till it sounds like it's missing and then start your way back in. It makes a point of saying that it's better to run rich than lean. This might also explain why it's hard to start cold as I've been tuning the ss method as posted on the forums. When tuning the forum posted way it's starts like a charm when warm, probably because the gas is heated by the engine and the gas vapours are active. On a cold engine you need that rich environment I would imagine, and why it would start cold on 1.5 turns out from closed but not any closer to closed. I'll tune it my book method an see what happens and post the results.

 

[jbuote]

Well again, mine is a 50, so it's a bit different, but the manual I have says to adjust SS needles out 5/8 turn from lightly seated as a starting point.
​Honestly, I did 1.5 turns as the forums said before I had the manual.. This last time out adjusting mine, I had the Factory manual but still did the 1.5 since I knew it would run with that, but otherwise followed my manual as follows...

I started the engine, and warmed it up to operating temperature.. Did that, by puttering around at about 1/3 throttle or a touch more for a bit..

​Then at Fast Idle, 750-800 rpm for mine (not lowest idle), IN GEAR, (so I did mine on the lake), Adjust each needle (one at a time, allowing time for engine to adjust to new setting) until highest RPM, and smoothest operation is achieved.

​Then I adjusted my idle adjustment screw so the engine ran at ~700 RPM max in REVERSE gear..

​She's running great for me, but again, not quite the same engine..

​I honestly have no idea if that is close to what you need to do, but thought maybe it would be close?
We both have 71's... LOL

​For whatever that might be worth..

 

[jbuote]

This might also explain why it's hard to start cold as I've been tuning the ss method as posted on the forums. When tuning the forum posted way it's starts like a charm when warm, probably because the gas is heated by the engine and the gas vapours are active. On a cold engine you need that rich environment I would imagine, and why it would start cold on 1.5 turns out from closed but not any closer to closed.

And the more I think about it, Maybe you already had it set up right, and it's your cold start procedure that isn't quite right?
Each engine has it's wants when starting cold..

​Just another thought..

 

[thelegion]

So true jbuote, each engine has its wants. I am open to any thoughts and I appreciate all the input, there is a great deal of satisfaction fixing and enjoying these older motors. When you roll into a marina and the jaws drop when they see your machine runing and purring like a kitten is priceless; It all brings me back to a better time.

Cheers

 

[jbuote]

Cold start for mine is:

1. ​Squeeze primer bulb in fuel line till firm. Engine side of fuel line up..
2. Throttle start lever to "Start" (Not sure what you have on your remote)
3. Turn key to "ON"..
4. Activate choke and hold it.
5. Turn key to "Start" while holding choke.
6. Release choke once it kicks and tries to run..
7. Bump choke as needed to keep from stalling till warmed up a bit..
8. Reduce throttle start lever as it warms up to obtain normal idle..

​That's about it for mine anyway.. lol

 

[thelegion]

Very similar to what I do, I have a automatic 1/2 choke with a toggle to full choke on the Control box. I'm in a colder wet climate on Vancouver island and it might take a richer fuel environment to kick the fires off. When it's hot the motor kicks of like a flash, I'll try some reverse psychology on it tomorrow

 

[jbuote]

Yeah.. I had the toggle too for the choke. My shifter switch was cracked and broken, and wasn't going to pay 300+ for the switch...
​I put in a rotary switch for shifting which took the place of the choke toggle, so then I replaced my ignition with a push to choke.. So that's on the key now..
​Also, I have the sensor for auto choke, but P.O (or someone) had cut the wires, so effectively I do not have auto choke at all on this 50 of mine.

​I get what you're saying about the colder climate.. Denser air, so more fuel needed for proper fuel/air ratio.. lol

​Still sounds like you may be having trouble starting when chokes are automatically closed..
​When it's warmed up, those chokes are open (unless you use the choke toggle)..

​I'm still pretty new, so maybe the following isn't a good idea, but I had a thought..
​Maybe one test would be to disconnect the auto-choke sensor wires from the choke solenoid so it only operates on the toggle.
​Then will it start better when cold? If there's no difference in starting, then it eliminates the Auto-Choke as something giving you fits wouldn't it? lol

​Anyway..
​For what it's worth...

 

[thelegion]

I'll give it a try when I go over the timer base/throttle and SS needles, it has to be something minor I'm overlooking.

ps. did u use a better rotary switch in place of your shift switch like the Aussie in the video?

 

[jbuote]

Not sure what video you're referring to... LOL

 

[thelegion]

Check this out, toggle workaround



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IR7or8FEUE4

 

[jbuote]

:facepalm:

​Wow!!! I guess the best I can say to that, is hey! It works right? LOL

​Yeah, I like the way I did mine better than that.. It's still a workaround, but I think it's a little better than that.. In my own opinion anyway...

​Here's a link to my thread I made about my shift switch replacement:

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...c-shift-switch-solution-hope-it-helps-someone

​Technically still a hack, but.....
LOL