1971 Chrysler Conqueror Model 260 Shallow Vee Project

[jonesg]

Re: 1971 Chrysler Conqueror Model 260 Shallow Vee Project

I use a mechanics overall. Other times just an old vinyl rain jacket to keep the glass off my arms. Sometimes I don't use anything but jump in the shower asap.
The important thing is the mask.

Where you see that mat laying over the top of the stringers, they do that a lot. Its just to provide a definate contact area between the stringer and deck.

Looking at my chrysler it was apparent they laid the mat on all the contact points then poured raw resin on the mat and dropped the deck into position.
Then they injected the foam.
When I put the deck back on mine ( its a molded glass deck) I put a bead of PL construction glue on all the contact areas, it takes up the minor gaps between stringer top and deck very well and holds it good.

These boats were supposed to be in the dump a couple of decades ago.

Its the same reason cars aren't made of alum or stainless steel, they aren't supposed to last this long.

 

[XateEsix]

Re: 1971 Chrysler Conqueror Model 260 Shallow Vee Project

Jonesg, Your right the respirator is the most important by far but I hate the itch so much so I like my tyvek and nitrile gloves a lot.

I found a place to get 2xl polyethylene over polypropylene full suite with hood and boots for $26 for a case of 25 which is cheap enough I don't mind tossing them after 1 or 2 uses.

For nitrile goves I am using a police issue long cuff 6 mil black gove that has holds up to punctures and cuts from the fiberglass.

What I am unhappy with is my goggles, I have good safety googles but the fog up or fill up with sweat so bad that I tend to take them off after a while and I an undecided about what might be better, safety glasses don't cut it for flying debris and dust so I may have to try a full face shield and see how it does.

I know the worse is yet to come with the grinding and sanding to prep the surfaces for resin so I would like to be prepared.

I am getting ready to move to a new house with a pretty good garage and shop setup and I am thinking about setting up the garage as a paint and dust control room by wrapping it in plastic and using a couple of fans at the floor to pull down the dust while I sand and grind.

I doubt it would pull all of it down but I think it would reduce it alot.

anyways those are my thoughts right now.

lates

 

[XateEsix]

Re: 1971 Chrysler Conqueror Model 260 Shallow Vee Project

Hey everyone,

I got back to the boat again last night and made some progress.

I managed to get all of the foam out, a portion of the transom (the thick part), and the stringers.

Here is a list of things I noticed:

The foam was in pretty good shape and mostly dry but the last couple of feet near the transom were completely water logged.

The stringers were in one piece and still had structural strength but were also quite water logged and begining to show signs of rot.

Everything around the bilge area was not far from turning to mush.

The outer stringers were bedded straight on to the boat bottom and appear to have been set into resin but the center stringer was only touching the bottom of the boat in the bow and stern areas with a gap of almost 2 inches in the center. Considering the keel is supported by 3 rollers over about 8 feet on the bottom I believe it was built that way.

There was no system of drainage at all.


More to come in the next post...

 

[XateEsix]

Re: 1971 Chrysler Conqueror Model 260 Shallow Vee Project

Ok so while I was cleaning up the mess I made last night I had an idea. Inside the keel area of the hull there is a groove the runs from a few feet behind the bow to within less than 2 feet of the bilge area. Since I noticed the original stringer didn't even touch this area I was wondering how to fill or strengthen this area. At first I considered filling the entire area with peanut butter but then I thought that might add a bit of weight and be wastefull of valuable supplies. I was also pondering the issue of drainage when the idea of embedding a piece of pvc pipe into the area with peanut butter seemed like a good way to include drainage and fill the void at the same time. By drilling out holes and inserting short tubes to allow water to drain into the embedded tube all along both sides of the center stringer this would make for a clear drainage path for any water that entered the area. This would also provide a flattened surface to apply the stringer too.

I also managed to get a trailer jack mounted on the trailer so I won't have to muscle trailer around as much anymore. It used to be pretty easy when the outboard was on the boat to counter balance the tongue but once I stripped it down it became quite a bit more tongue heavy.

I don't know if you can tell from the pictures but the haevy portion of the transom was mounted in a interesting manner. The top 6 inches or so was heavily stapled to the full width thin portion and the bottom had 1 6 inch by about 18 inch piece of fiberglass and resin sandwiched in there.

Sometimes I wonder how the whole thing ever held together.

The nice things I must say is that it all came apart relatively easily and due to the condition of all of the parts I have some nice templates to build from.

I hope to get busy grinding out the edges and removing the rest of the transom tonight so I look forward to posting more pics soon.

John

 

[XateEsix]

Re: 1971 Chrysler Conqueror Model 260 Shallow Vee Project

Does anyone know if the heat generated by epoxy setting up will melt PVC pipe?

That would be my only concern over doing the drain like discribed earlier.

Thanks

 

[XateEsix]

Re: 1971 Chrysler Conqueror Model 260 Shallow Vee Project

Well guys,

I didn't get anything done last weekend. I got a bit distracted by the boat races (I like hydroplanes) and after 2 long days of races, sun, drink, food, and swimming I have been busy working and recovering.

I have decided I need to build a support structure for the bottom half of the boat while I am working on it. Since I took the top off the bottom has spread open more then 6 inches and I am pretty sure if I don't keep it pretty close to the orginal shape while I work on it getting the top on may be extremely difficult if not impossible.

Anyways when I have more photos or info I will get it posted up.

Thanks

 

[sankanother1]

Re: 1971 Chrysler Conqueror Model 260 Shallow Vee Project

I know this is an old post and I hope your project did not go down the tubes..But after researching about every stringer retore post on the web and seeing this pic of your stringer just tabbed to the hull like that I have come to the conclusion that as I suspected the stringers are the stregth noth the encapsulating fiberglass as I have read time and time again...On that note..What the heck are is a person supposed to do with a 23 plus foot boat..Piece the stringers togeather?Sounds weak to me.So I am summing it all up to the fiberglass hull itself makes the intgrity of the boat..Scary.

 

[cash68]

Re: 1971 Chrysler Conqueror Model 260 Shallow Vee Project

Any updates? Cool boat!

 

[XateEsix]

Re: 1971 Chrysler Conqueror Model 260 Shallow Vee Project

Any updates? Cool boat!

No the project is not dead but it has been on hold for a while. We have been dealing with moves, deaths in the family and all kinds of life type things that have held off progress for a while now. Hopefully some time this year I can get back to work on it.

 

[XateEsix]

Re: 1971 Chrysler Conqueror Model 260 Shallow Vee Project

I know this is an old post and I hope your project did not go down the tubes..But after researching about every stringer retore post on the web and seeing this pic of your stringer just tabbed to the hull like that I have come to the conclusion that as I suspected the stringers are the stregth noth the encapsulating fiberglass as I have read time and time again...On that note..What the heck are is a person supposed to do with a 23 plus foot boat..Piece the stringers togeather?Sounds weak to me.So I am summing it all up to the fiberglass hull itself makes the intgrity of the boat..Scary.

No actually I believe you are wrong. Those tabs are the real strength. The stringers were just laying in the pockets without offering much in the form of support to anything but the floor. I plan on using foam board as stringers when I finally get back to work on this project.... Anyone in WA have a garage or shop I can borrow?? heh. I took a fiberglass boat building class a year ago or so and they made it pretty clear that the wood in their boats was more a mold and substrate for applying the fiberglass to than a structural component.