1971 Starcraft Super Sport Floor Replacement and Such

turtle1173

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Hey great thread TN! I've got a harbor freight up the road 30 minutes. I'll have to pick up one of those drill guides. Also, I'm thinking (after looking at your post) maybe removing the splashwell might be a good idea. That would give me much easier assess to the transom and might make it a little easier to get the new transom in. Thoughts?
 

Tnstratofam

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Definitely remove the splash well. You will quickly learn that replacing rivets is easy, and removing the splash well will make installing your new transom so much easier. I didn't think it would make a difference, and I wasn't replacing my deck but it would have been much easier.
 

turtle1173

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I think I'm going to have to try it without removing the splash well. It looks like I'll have to take the sides of the boat off to get out the splash well. That's going to be a much larger task than just taking out a few rivets. Unless I'm missing something. You all have any simpler method of removing this?
 

Tnstratofam

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I tried looking back through your thread, and I can't get a good idea how your splash well is fastened. As you can see in my thread it is certainly doable to replace the transom with the splash well still in place.
 

turtle1173

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I took out three rivets on each side that I thought was part of the splash well. It seemed to me that there's a lip on the top of the splash well that goes under the top side. However, I saw a pic here on iboats that leads me to think that maybe that isn't true. So I'm not entirely sure now.

 

Tnstratofam

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I can't remember how they are attached. Mine is wrapped up tight due to the cold weather. Or I'd go out and check it out. I'll try and do some research to figure it out. If I find anything out I'll post it. Hopefully someone else will come along and know the answer.

Maybe the inner rail needs to come off or loose to get to the rivets holding it in.
 

turtle1173

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I appreciate the help. The picture I saw looked like the horizontal piece (where my hammer is laying in the above pic) goes under the vertical piece next to it and rivets together from underneath. That would make the vertical piece separate from the splashwell and much easier to remove. I need to do some more searching or have someone verify that before I start taking it apart.
 

turtle1173

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No Title

Here's the pic. It was posted by "Starcraft 180" from an 18' SS. It definitely makes it look separate from the side piece.
 

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Tnstratofam

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It's separated because on that boat the splashwell is cracked or ripped from the side. Those two parts are actually one piece. That tear or rip is usually caused by a rotten transom. The weak or damaged transom allows for to much flex in the hull which causes the splashwell to crack/split at that seem. The sides and the pan are one piece.
 

Tnstratofam

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I looked through my photos on photobucket, and I just don't have a good shot of how the splashwell is attached. I'll keep looking. Sorry.
 

dozerII

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The splash well should be riveted to the under side of the vertical gunwale sides with five solid rivets from below, at least that is how the 16SS were I worked on. Plus there should be two 90 degree aluminum angle brackets on each side of the top front bow piece with two rivets each. I can't find a picture right now either.
 

turtle1173

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Great! So I shouldn't have to pull the gunwale, right? That's the part that has me worried. I've dismantled most of the boat but I really didn't want to have to remove the gunwale.
 

turtle1173

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Success! Splashwell is out! I was surprised how tight and difficult it was lodged in there even after all the rivets were out. Thanks for the help! Wish there was an easy way to better utilize some of that space!

Ok, I really think that someone has used gluvit or something like it before in this boat. I can't get this stuff off!



Wire wheel just barely has made any difference. Question: if I get any dirt and moisture out fully, can I JB weld the pits over top of that? Or do you have any suggestions for getting it out?

Thanks! Oh, got the transom halves curing as we speak!
 

Tnstratofam

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You could try some MEK. I have used it to clean up 5200 before. I'm not sure how it will work on gluvit. If that's even what that is. I would not try to apply the jb weld over that stuff. It could be something a po tried to seal up the pitting with.
 

jigngrub

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That stuff looks like coat-it which is an epoxy like gluvit. Try some CitrusStrip paint and epoxy remover, brush it on in the evening and let it set overnight and check it the next morning. CitrusStrip is available in the paint depts. of walmart and home depot.
 

GA_Boater

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That black stuff could also be spray undercoating or Flexseal/equivalent. If POs try to fix leaks using a "quick and dirty" method, those things usually seem to be the choice. :facepalm: Either one is a pain to remove so you can do a proper repair.
 

Tnstratofam

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I really hope for turtle it's not undercoating/flex seal. That stuff is a nightmare to remove.:facepalm: At least it has been for me in the past.
 

turtle1173

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Well, after 24 hours of citrusStrip and much brushing and scrapping, it looks a little better. I'm getting a pressure washer tomorrow, so I should be able to get some of this a little more clean.
 

bonz_d

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Wow! Sure wish you could find out what it was as this would be a great example of what not to do. I'll be watchin to see what that power washer does. Best-o-luck.
 
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