1972 Evinrude 115 Electric Shift Problems

[dhughes214]

So I guess I am one of many to have problems with my evinrude electric shift. The motor is stuck in forward, not responding to me pushing neutral and reverse buttons on control box. I am suspecting low (or no) oil. Can anyone tell me how to change it and with what???

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: 1972 Evinrude 115 Electric Shift Problems

(Hydro Electric Shift System Explained)
(J. Reeves)

The shifting setup of the lower unit is what's called a "Hydro Electric Shift", which is quite complex consisting of voltage being applied to solenoids in the lower unit which in turn change oil passages via a oil pump that supplies various pressure on a spring loaded shifter dog. The wires leading to the lower unit (at the powerhead) are "Green" and "Blue". The engine must be running or cranking over in order to shift out of forward gear.

You CAN NOT use HI VIS lube in that lower unit. You MUST USE what OMC calls "Premium Blend" lube, commonly called "Type C". (A thinner lube)

Note: The engine must be running OR have the driveshaft turning by some other means in order for the engine to shift.

In neutral, you need 12v to the "Green" wire.
In reverse, you need 12v to both wires, the "Green" one and the "Blue" one.
In forward, there should be no voltage to either wire. (The spring loaded shifter dog forces the unit into forward gear)

To check the lower unit for proper shifting to make sure you have no trouble there, remove the spark plugs to avoid problems and to allow a higher cranking speed.

This next step eliminates the actual shift switch in case problems may exist there.... Disconnect the blue & green wires at the knife connectors (the rubber insulated boots) leading to the lower unit at the powerhead, then using jumpers, take voltage direct from the starter solenoid to apply voltage to the "Green" wire for neutral, then both wires 'Green" & "Blue" for reverse (Remember the engine must be cranking over in order to shift).
With no voltage applied, the unit should be in forward. No need for a ground jumper... the lower unit's already grounded. You may crank the engine with the key switch or by energizing the starter solenoid with a jumper wire.


Large slotted screw at lower portion of lower unit is the gearcase drain screw. A identical screw further up the gearcase is the oil level screw. Fill from the bottom drain hole until the lube flows out the top oil level hole.

 

[dhughes214]

Re: 1972 Evinrude 115 Electric Shift Problems

thank you so much for all the info. How do I fill from bottom to top though?? do I have to take the engine off?? Also, if the solenoids are set to forward by default how does the motor start???

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: 1972 Evinrude 115 Electric Shift Problems

Changing lower unit oil

There are 2 straight slot screw on the starboard side of the lower unit. Top is vent plug, bottom, drain and fill plug. ( do not touch Phillips head screw).

Remove the bottom plug, put container under lower unit, now remove the vent plug, while the oil is draining, replace the seals on the plugs part # 311598, buy several of these, ( they are a one time use item)

Walmart and many places sell a little hand pump. To use to fill the unit, you insert the tube into the bottom hole, and pump till oil reaches the vent hole. Install the vent screw, then remove hose, install the drain-fill screw, clean up mess.

The screws can be hard to get out, do not mess up the head. You may need to employ an impact screw driver to break them loose.

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: 1972 Evinrude 115 Electric Shift Problems

As soon as ther key is turned on, 12 volts is applied to the neutral solenoid. Turning the key further to the START position engages the oil pump in the lower unit, that solenoid places the oil pump in the neutral position effectively placing the shifter dog in the neutral position.

This all takes place is a fraction of a second so that the boat doesn't jump forward.

 

[dhughes214]

Re: 1972 Evinrude 115 Electric Shift Problems

so then that's why the boat won't turn over by key, because it's not shifting into neutral, do you think I'm starting in the right place by changing (or adding) crank case oil?? Should I be starting somewhere else??

 

[dhughes214]

Re: 1972 Evinrude 115 Electric Shift Problems

So can I run a wire from the solenoid to the blue wire (or is it the green one?) to see if shifts into neutral and will start that way, atleast that will let me know if it is the switch.

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: 1972 Evinrude 115 Electric Shift Problems

Go back to my post (Hydro Electric Shift System Explained) and re-read it. Be a good idea to print it out.

 

[dhughes214]

Re: 1972 Evinrude 115 Electric Shift Problems

ok, printed it out, did the test, got forward and reverse but no neutral, but I also just realized I didn't unhook the knife connectors, just added the jumper. Not sure if that makes a difference but I'm going to try it again anyway.

 

[dhughes214]

Re: 1972 Evinrude 115 Electric Shift Problems

ok, turns out this motor is a 69 not a 72. Does that make a difference?? I tried to change the gear oil today, but I can only see one slotted screw??? Is that the drain or the vent? Thanks again for all the help and patience with my ignorance!!!

 

[dhughes214]

Re: 1972 Evinrude 115 Electric Shift Problems

ok, just did the test again and i could get forward, neutral, and reverse. Motor turns over but won't fire when jumping power to solenoid. Still get nothing with key. I'm going to change the gear oil anyway because it probably needs it. What do you think my problem is?? I'm checking for spark today.

 

[dhughes214]

Re: 1972 Evinrude 115 Electric Shift Problems

ok, I'm not getting any spark, my mechanic buddy says it has great compression across all four cylinders, he says it could be a problem with the wiring at the key switch. Supposedly theres supposed to be a yellow and black wire which serves as the kill switch, but I'm not seeing any such wire. On the back of the key switch there are three prongs, one says "BAT" one says "IGN" and one says "ST". Does anybody know which color wires should be hooked up to which prong?

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: 1972 Evinrude 115 Electric Shift Problems

Th ignition circuit is by far a different one than the later model engines that incorporate that black/yellow kill circuit. Your engine doesn't have that setup.

You have 12 volts to the "B" terminal of the switch.

The "IGN" terminal should have a wire that leads back to the engine to provide 12 volts to the pulsepack BUT ONLY when the key is in the ON and START position.

The "ST" terminal would have a wire that leads back to one of the 3/8" nuts of the starter solenoid to energize it. This wire should have 12 volts applied to it ONLY when the key is in the START position.

Find the wire leading to the pulsepack at the engine wiring terminal strip that is PURPLE in color. When the key is in the ON position, you should have 12 volts at that terminal. Do you?

 

[dhughes214]

Re: 1972 Evinrude 115 Electric Shift Problems

ok, what a mess that ignition switch was. Wrong wires everywhere. Also, the batt wire is messed up somewhere inbetween the motor and the switch, cause it tested 12v at the motor and nothing at the switch, so I just ran a new wire and taped it along all the other wires. Also, the solenoid wire was wrong as well, wasn't hooked up at all. My battery was dead so I couldn't do anymore today, but the starter was turning from the key switch now (yeah!), and yes I do have 12v at the purple wire with the key on. I will test for spark tomorrow with my freshly charged battery. Thanks for everything so far!!!!

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: 1972 Evinrude 115 Electric Shift Problems

NOTE: That ignition system demands a top notch fully charged battery with at least a 70 amp hour rating. Anything less will result in damge to the pulsepack.

 

[dhughes214]

Re: 1972 Evinrude 115 Electric Shift Problems

yes I was told that as well. The battery got low enough that I could hear a difference when the starter was turning over the motor so I immediately put the battery on the charger. I'm excited to finally be making a little progress, but I will have to wait till tomorrow to start tinkering again. Thanks again joe for all the help, I hear you are the man, and it seems with the title of this thread being "Electric shift problems" and now my problem not being related to electric shift at all you may be my only hope!!!

 

[dhughes214]

Re: 1972 Evinrude 115 Electric Shift Problems

just got back in town for a softball tournament, working on my boat today. Just out of curiosity what is the green wire coming out of the pulse pack for?? when I got the motor it was cut and taped up. By the way my pulse pack is the bombardier, don't know if that makes a difference. Also, I know this is off subject but does my motor (1969 Evinrude 115) have a generator/alternator?

 

[dhughes214]

Re: 1972 Evinrude 115 Electric Shift Problems

Joe Reeves is the man!!! Just charged the battery, cleaned all connections, double checked my new connections at the key switch, and it FIRED RIGHT UP!!! Runs smooth, idles and shifts great. But doesn't seem to be sucking up water. Does anybody know the part number for the impeller for this motor, and if it is difficult to install?? I've worked on cars and dirtbikes but this is my first outboard motor.

 

[rockyrude]

Re: 1972 Evinrude 115 Electric Shift Problems

Not sure of the part number, got it here on iboats. The trick of doing an impeller on that motor ( almost learned the hard way on my '69 115) is to unhook the knife connectors on the wires going to the lower unit and tying a string or something onto the wires that go down. You will use it to thread the wires back up when you put it all back together. Also get the genuine service manual, it'll be your best friend.

 

[dhughes214]

Re: 1972 Evinrude 115 Electric Shift Problems

thanks rocky, aside from those two knife connectors how difficult is the process??