1972 Evinrude 115 Electric Shift Problems

rockyrude

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Re: 1972 Evinrude 115 Electric Shift Problems

In some respects it easier than a manual shift ( no shift rod to fight) the down side is it has two water tubes to the pump to line up when you put it back together.
 

bigpoppakdog

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Re: 1972 Evinrude 115 Electric Shift Problems

changing the impeller is to me, a 2 on a scale of 1 to 10. Make sure you get all the bolts off your lower unit. There is one that is a bit hard to find by the trim tab. Be sure you connect something to the wire's in order to pull them up through. I used electrical tape and started as far down as I could and when I got to the end I did a sprial wrap(hockey stick style) with about 3 feet extra. When I dropped the lower unit I could pull it out far enough to unhook everything. When done, I lubed up the wire, including the electrical tape and then pulled it up through the hole. Then unwrapped the electrical tape and hooked up the knife connectors. Just basically remember to attach something to the wire so you can pull it back up when done.
 

dhughes214

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Re: 1972 Evinrude 115 Electric Shift Problems

thanks for the input guys, I think I'm going to try it myself. Looks like iboats store has the impeller for the 69 115, but not the "impeller replacement kit", will just the impeller be sufficient. Also i never did find out what the green wire coming out of the pulse pack is, I'm guessing Neutral Safety Switch?? My green wire was disconnected when I got the motor, and when my motor starts up it is in forward, and that shouldn't happen if the neutral safety switch is hooked up. Also, does anybody know which color wires hook up to which prongs inside the control box?? Thanks so much for the help everyone.
 

rockyrude

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Re: 1972 Evinrude 115 Electric Shift Problems

The default mode on those is to be in forward (no power) until it first starts which is a matter of less than a second so it doesn't actually drive forward. The green wire goes to the number 1 terminal, the blue to the number 2 and purple to number 3/4. I can't stress the oem manual will be your best friend. Also, if it hasn't been done, these things had an excuse for an automatic choke override between the choke solenoid and a temp sensor on the head, search here on how to disable it your gph will appreciate it.
 

dhughes214

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Re: 1972 Evinrude 115 Electric Shift Problems

do you know where I can get a manual for my motor?
 

dhughes214

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Re: 1972 Evinrude 115 Electric Shift Problems

Ok, I'm going to attempt to replace the impeller, do I need to get the "impeller repair kit" or just the impeller?
 

Inchhigh

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Re: 1972 Evinrude 115 Electric Shift Problems

The default mode on those is to be in forward (no power) until it first starts which is a matter of less than a second so it doesn't actually drive forward. The green wire goes to the number 1 terminal, the blue to the number 2 and purple to number 3/4. I can't stress the oem manual will be your best friend. Also, if it hasn't been done, these things had an excuse for an automatic choke override between the choke solenoid and a temp sensor on the head, search here on how to disable it your gph will appreciate it.

I apologize for bastardizing this thread but I have a similar problem. I have a 100293 which I assume has the same shift system. I have no Forward gear. I can start it and shift into reverse, and then back into Neutral but not into Forward. I disconnected both the Green and the Blue wires but still no Forward. Any idea what that means?

Thanks.
 

rockyrude

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Re: 1972 Evinrude 115 Electric Shift Problems

You should start your own thread to get as much help as possible, for starts do you have the correct lube in the lower unit(type c)? Take an ohmmeter to each of the two wires to the lower unit, you should have 5-7 ohms if the solenoids are good. Also, check the voltage from the switch to the lower unit, with the forward button pushed , there should be no volts on either wire.
 

Inchhigh

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Re: 1972 Evinrude 115 Electric Shift Problems

You should start your own thread to get as much help as possible, for starts do you have the correct lube in the lower unit(type c)? Take an ohmmeter to each of the two wires to the lower unit, you should have 5-7 ohms if the solenoids are good. Also, check the voltage from the switch to the lower unit, with the forward button pushed , there should be no volts on either wire.

Thanks. I'll check for current. I can't be certain what is in it for lube but I did run in several hours last year with the same lube that is in there now. It was in heated storage over the winter so I didn't change it this spring. It seems like most of the problems I've read about here are engines that won't come out of forward or go into reverse. I thought the fact that my situation was the opposite (good R and N, no F) might indicate a specific problem on its own.
 

dhughes214

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Re: 1972 Evinrude 115 Electric Shift Problems

Rockyrude, you know more about these motors than me, could his problem be that his shift setup is NOT the same as mine?? Isn't there a similar evinrude electric shift system that doesn't default to forward, it defaults to neutral, and when one wire is hot it's reverse and when the other is hot it's forward. If that's not the case then my semi-educated guess would be a faulty solenoid.
 

Inchhigh

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Re: 1972 Evinrude 115 Electric Shift Problems

I did get mine shifting again temporarily and buzzed around the lake a few times, shifiting into neutral and forward several times but only into reverse once as I was backing off the trailer. Everything seemed fine and then........When I shut it off at the dock to get the trailer and load it back up it jumped into forward just after I shut off the key and now won't come back out of forward again. It was in neutral when I shut it off.

Now it will not do anything when I turn the key, I assume because it is stuck in gear and has to be in neutral to start.

Am I back to square one?

I really though I had it whipped.
 
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rockyrude

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Re: 1972 Evinrude 115 Electric Shift Problems

I almost forgot, inside the control box , in between the plastic push buttons and the switch is an interlock plate that is supposed to insure that it can only be shifted at idle. It is moved by the throttle control. Sometimes the little plastic follower breaks and that plate jams not allowing any of the buttons to be pushed. I haven't found a replacement for mine, just got to remember to idle down to shift ( which you want to do anyway)
 
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