Just started work on an old Hydro Electric shift Evinrude...
The lower unit seems to be stuck in forward at the moment. But the shift button is giving good voltage to the shifter leads, and I hear the very faintest click when I apply voltage to the leads with a hand switch. (ear pressed up against the lower unit)
I took out the old gear lube and it ran down the case a lot like hot honey.. It made me think I had the wrong kind of lube in the case for a while.. There was also a funny two tone character to the oil that was coming out of the case. It's like the oil in the front part of the bullet case had turned dark and the oil in the back of the case was still light colored. And much more like the stuff I used to refill the gear case.
The engine was stored sitting on it's face on the ground with the propeller pointed up. so the light stuff was probably floating on top of the dark stuff.
It takes three tubes of type C gear case oil to fill this puppy up.
I was very surprised that the motor started right up and ran for me. And I was hoping that a few more revs might persuade the pump and the shifting plunger to operate normally. But that hasn't happened yet. So I think I'm looking at a lower unit tear down perhaps.
If anyone's got any ideas about what to try first, or things not to try, let me know. I was thinking of launching the boat and running the whole system under load for a short while to see if more reves might help free things up. I didn't see any signs of metal in the oil pan. It might be ordinary gunk corrosion doing this..
Oh, and the motor does not shut down with the key. I've got some kind of short in the wire harness to track down. With the key on, I get power to four of the screws on the junction bar. And with the key off, I get power to one of the screws on the junction bar.. So what wire in what system could short to keep the motor going when you turn the key off?? (When the key itself and the wiring up to the power head is acting normally?)
The lower unit seems to be stuck in forward at the moment. But the shift button is giving good voltage to the shifter leads, and I hear the very faintest click when I apply voltage to the leads with a hand switch. (ear pressed up against the lower unit)
I took out the old gear lube and it ran down the case a lot like hot honey.. It made me think I had the wrong kind of lube in the case for a while.. There was also a funny two tone character to the oil that was coming out of the case. It's like the oil in the front part of the bullet case had turned dark and the oil in the back of the case was still light colored. And much more like the stuff I used to refill the gear case.
The engine was stored sitting on it's face on the ground with the propeller pointed up. so the light stuff was probably floating on top of the dark stuff.
It takes three tubes of type C gear case oil to fill this puppy up.
I was very surprised that the motor started right up and ran for me. And I was hoping that a few more revs might persuade the pump and the shifting plunger to operate normally. But that hasn't happened yet. So I think I'm looking at a lower unit tear down perhaps.
If anyone's got any ideas about what to try first, or things not to try, let me know. I was thinking of launching the boat and running the whole system under load for a short while to see if more reves might help free things up. I didn't see any signs of metal in the oil pan. It might be ordinary gunk corrosion doing this..
Oh, and the motor does not shut down with the key. I've got some kind of short in the wire harness to track down. With the key on, I get power to four of the screws on the junction bar. And with the key off, I get power to one of the screws on the junction bar.. So what wire in what system could short to keep the motor going when you turn the key off?? (When the key itself and the wiring up to the power head is acting normally?)
