1972 Glastron Boat Project

MarioTwins

Seaman
Joined
Oct 2, 2016
Messages
65
That definitely will help a lot with the wiring

But doesn't cover an external regulator.
Or where what wire goes in each piece lol

Will do more research

Also still wondering about other questions. Oil cooler ect ?


As for transom and stringer inspections. Should I just cut a square out of the floor and just get into it lol

Thanks

Dave
 

MarioTwins

Seaman
Joined
Oct 2, 2016
Messages
65
I wired back in the alternator and regulator I'm pretty sure it's correct. I started the boat and get 14volts slightly above idle

I'm pretty sure the faulty wiring is all in the dash now as it still all lights up as soon as power is applied and nothing works correctly
Motor to raise and lower leg does work though

I poked my head under the dash a few weeks ago. And what a mess. I'm going to start tracing wires and eliminate the garbage and hopefully it'll solve some of the problems in doing so

Thank
Dave
 

MarioTwins

Seaman
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Oct 2, 2016
Messages
65
So it was dark when i brought the boat home . I strapped the eye to the winch with a ratchet strap for the trip and its been on there ever since
I never looked at the safety chain just that it was hooked up. I took it off today to see this



That should hold ? LOL At least it looked legit i guess

Heres the winched I picked up had the strap already on it :)



Old winch



And new winch installed



I drilled 2 extra holes and it is mounted with 4 bolts instead of 2 now.



Still looking for opinions on my oil cooler set up ?

Thanks

Dave
 

Pusher

Lieutenant
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Sep 2, 2014
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1,273
Oye, that aluminum carribeaner looks scary! :)

Sorry, I don't know about the motor questions you have but that winch is looking clean.

For the dash wiring I nailed some clear vinyl to the back of the dash and ran the wires through it cross wise. If you drill through the walls and then slit one side with a razor blade your wires will slip into the slots and be evenly spread out and easy to trace. I ran three vinyl strips like spokes from the buss bar, around the steering wheel hub and down to the switches.
 

MarioTwins

Seaman
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Oct 2, 2016
Messages
65
So, Im not sure if im happy or sad today. But here goes todays update anyways..

I started into the wiring a bit, got all the old stereo and radio stuff out transponder wire out was getting cleaner

Backside of the dash



I took the seat out for easier access



And the floor was incredibly soft under it :(

I was able to ram a screwdriver through it





So i got the skilsaw out and cut a hole in the floor





The stringer is basically gone and crumbles like many storys/build threads I have read, I can reach the center stringer through the hole and its wet but solid.



The stringer is not encapsulated in fiberglass at all anymore ? odd ?





I did drill into the transom some today too and it was damp but still wood color. but that is irrelevant now, and if goes this far will be replaced


Now is my next question

Is it worth fixing ?

Im not afraid to take on the project, but is this boat worth a total overhall or just flog it ?

What is an estamate cost on redoing transom stringers and floor. Hull would be painted too. With pour in foam under floor

Look foward to hearing some feedback

Thanks

Dave
 

Pusher

Lieutenant
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Sep 2, 2014
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As far as costs go, what are you planning or willing to put into it?

The costs will swing pretty quickly depending on what your intention is;
marine grade plywood vs construction grade
poly or epoxy resins
heavy fiberglass or light
New, rebuilt, or current motor

I believe my floor alone took 5 gallons of polyester resin ($30ish/gal). Two cheap plywood sheets were $30ish each. Fiberglass can be kind of expensive. Stainless decking screws $10-20. You'll have to decide what kind of topcoat will go on... Paint and armour coating are both fairly cheap but a lot of the name brand stuff is $100+ per gallon. And it will take at least 1 gallon depending on the product.

That's all after the stringers and transom.

Your trailer will need self etching primer with paint over, and probably a new wiring job ($60 with good wire and connections but cheap lights).

I'm not sure on the tractor paint costs for the hull, or the pour-in foam cost.

Titling costs money in the states. I don't remember if you got that done yet.

The motor will be some more.

You'll miss out on at least one boating season, two or more if you're like most of us.

You'll likely only be able to sell it for $5,000 top-end with a really nice rebuild. I'd guess it's more like 3,500 or less but it all depends on the buyer.


All that to say, if it's the ideal boat and the money's doable, go for it! You can save as you go which is nice.

I could have started a weekend gardening business and bought a new boat by now 😂

Some others might have a better idea on all this.
 

ezmobee

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 26, 2007
Messages
23,767
To be completely honest......in my opinion this boat is not a good candidate for restoration due to being a small closed but with an ancient stern drive. No one wants closed bows and you're likely to have more issues arising from the old motor and drive once you get it on the water. If it was an open bow or had a newer chevy based I/O my thoughts would likely be different.
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
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Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,929
I agree, unless you hace some sort of emotional attachment to it, I'd find a better candidate. They ARE plentiful.
 

Tnstratofam

Commander
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Aug 18, 2013
Messages
2,679
Unfortunately this is what many of us have discovered when there are soft spots in the deck. If this is the exact boat you've always wanted, and it will fit your current needs and future needs then a rebuild might be okay.

A rebuild will likely cost you $2000- $3000 in materials and probably 100 man hours. I would plan on a new engine and outdrive combo too if you're rebuilding as it would be the best time for it seeing as how you would be replacing the transom and motor mounts anyway. That could be bought through the purchase of another rotted boat with a good engine and outdrive. More money towards the rebuild. Painting may be the cheapest thing to do out of the rebuild as woodonglass has a good thread on painting your boat with tractor paint.

All said you're likely to end up with around $5000- $6000 in the total build however a brand new boat is $20,000 plus depending on what you get, and any used boat you purchase under $10,000 could have the same damage your current boat has. For that matter any used boat has the potential for major issues, and they can be hidden and hard to spot as many threads here show. A propper rebuild will yeild a safe and strong craft that if maintained could last 40 + years.

It's a tough call. Lots of boat projects don't get past the teardown stage, and end up back on cl or evil bay.

Is it the boat of your dreams? If yes go for it.
Do you have the patience for a long hard job? If yes go for it.
Do you want to be on the water quickly and cheaply? ( Cheap is hard to do with boats Safely! ) If yes dump this boat and buy a new one.

My .02 cents.

On a side note we have a 20 ft Stratos that's been in our garage in different states of teardown since Oct 2013. I haven't even really started on it as life has gotten in the way, and I bought an aluminum Starcraft bowrider and got it water ready in the meantime to keep us on the water.
 

Pusher

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Sep 2, 2014
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If Mario is around the straight of George or the salt water for that matter, the shipping tankers coming through the straights create "rollers" that make open bows less desireable. It's also usually too cold, wet, windy and cloudy to enjoy an open bow much. My body didn't recognize a sun tan until I moved to the east side of Washington.
 

MarioTwins

Seaman
Joined
Oct 2, 2016
Messages
65
I want it as a fishing boat, salt water. That's why it would get a kicker ect. But in the same breath it's raw water for cooling :s
I could always put a chev in later on as they used Volvo drive too ? 4.3 or something or go all out and out a 350 in er. Jk lol

I'm torn I don't know what to do lol. I was prepared for it to be all rotted out. But now I don't know

Got something thinking to do
The wife says sell it lol
 

Baylinerchuck

Commander
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Jul 29, 2016
Messages
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Good luck on your decision, only you can make it. Closed bow would probably mean a decapping, as far as I know.
 

MarioTwins

Seaman
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Oct 2, 2016
Messages
65
Good luck on your decision, only you can make it. Closed bow would probably mean a decapping, as far as I know.

Gas tank is in the bow. Caps gotta come off to get it out. It needs a cleaning I'm sure

Was thinking of attempting it without decapping. But seems tougher lol

Thanks for all the input so far guys. Keep it coming

Still thinking hard on the subject lol

I've always wanted a boat. So it's making it tough too

And I don't want to buy another one just to uncover the same issues

Dave
 

ezmobee

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 26, 2007
Messages
23,767
I want it as a fishing boat, salt water.

This boat isn't really what I'd think of when I think saltwater fishing boat. I'd want something with a self-bailing deck (minimum) and would prefer an outboard. A 20'+ center console would be better.
 

Baylinerchuck

Commander
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Jul 29, 2016
Messages
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Hey look on the bright side.....either way you go you're getting rid of that carpet......:puke:Not what you want to hear, but sometimes a little humor can brighten up the day?? :fear:
 

Pusher

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This boat isn't really what I'd think of when I think saltwater fishing boat. I'd want something with a self-bailing deck (minimum) and would prefer an outboard. A 20'+ center console would be better.

Do they make closed-bow center consoles?
 

MILKWEED

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Oct 7, 2016
Messages
80
Your Glastron is the same year as mine (72 V153), in about the same condition as mine when I bought it (floor, stringer, transom rot) and you are asking yourself the same questions I was. Yours being an I/O makes things a little tougher to do when replacing the stringers because of the engine mounts etc. I know you have a lot to think about already but have you considered converting it to an OB, since the transom and stringers are rotten you could rebuild with an OB plan and free up some room on the deck and still use your kicker motor. The fuel tank in the bow could still be used to offset the weight.....just something to think about.
 
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