1973 40hp evinrude driveshaft help

[1506cmo18]

I've been trying for a couple of days to get the driveshaft out of the top end. What connects the driveshaft to the crankshaft? There must be something holding it in there because I cant get it out. Any help would be greatlyy appreciated

 

[Daviet]

Re: 1973 40hp evinrude driveshaft help

The drive shaft just slips into the splines on the crankshaft, no type of retainer. It is possiable that the shaft is rusted into the crank.

 

[tx1961whaler]

Re: 1973 40hp evinrude driveshaft help

Just checking, but is the shift linkage disconnected?

 

[1506cmo18]

Re: 1973 40hp evinrude driveshaft help

The shift linkage is disconnected in the lower end but not in the top end. I have the lower end completely apart and the only thing left that's exposed is the top shaft of the shift linkage and the driveshaft.


Is there a special puller or can i torch the driveshaft without damaging the crank?

 

[tx1961whaler]

Re: 1973 40hp evinrude driveshaft help

Well, there is a couple of things to try before breaking out the sawzall.
This is what I do for smaller motors; it would be a pain to do with a 40:
Securely prop the motor up upside down on the flywheel. Using a wooden wedge, open up the split between the lower/mid as far as it will go. Spray as much penetrant (Kroil, PB Blaster, 50/50 mix of ATF/acetone, etc) down toward the powerhead as you can. Let it sit 24 hours, then try to wedge it apart with a couple of other wooden wedges. Repeat as necessary.

Other way: beat the crap out of the lower end using a 2x4 and 3 lb sledge downward on the cav plate. This may break the water pump housing.

Another way: big pry bar

Yet another way: Put the comfy pillow under the flywheel. Hang the motor upside down about 1 inch off the floor and let gravity and solvent do the trick.

 

[1506cmo18]

Re: 1973 40hp evinrude driveshaft help

It had no problem coming out of the lower end its stuck in the top end...I'm just wondering if there anything holding it in the motor


When you say split apart, do you mean the power head from the exhaust housing and go at it from the top of the motor going down?

 

[tx1961whaler]

Re: 1973 40hp evinrude driveshaft help

OK. I'm obviously confused. How did the driveshaft come out of the lower end (gearcase) without taking out the water pump?

 

[1506cmo18]

Re: 1973 40hp evinrude driveshaft help

the driveshaft broke right below the water pump, just before the splines. I took the lower end all off and now theres just the power head and exhaust casing. The drive shaft is stuck at the very end by the splines.

I just want to make sure there's nothing else beyond that.

Is there a some sort of puller I can get?

 

[Cofe]

Re: 1973 40hp evinrude driveshaft help

Since the drive shaft is broke, you can hang the whole thing upside down using a sling or chain wrapped around the broke drive shaft. Use PB blaster or above mentioned penetrants on the splines on the crank shaft. This may take time to work, but be patient.

 

[1506cmo18]

Re: 1973 40hp evinrude driveshaft help

Alright guys, I guess I'm going to hang my motor

 

[supagidget]

Re: 1973 40hp evinrude driveshaft help

Any luck with your motor? I had a very similar problem. The problem with the old evinrude 40's is that the ds is made of stainless steel but the cs is made of steel. The connection is not protected from water intrusion and can rust/corrode if not properly serviced. The splines are seized together. It took over a month to get my shaft out. Here are the links to my posts:

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=497171

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=502602 (Getting Desperate)

As you can see in the main thread I built a pulling device. Here is how you do it:

Get a piece of metal approximately 1 cm thick, 8 inches long and 3 inches wide. It needs to be real sturdy.
Drill a 3/4 inch hole in the very center for the drive shaft to go through and two one half inch holes about 1.5 inches (just make sure the bolt head can rest on the flaring tool and that you can get a wrench on both the nut and the bolt) from the center hole. Then you need two flaring tools (plumbing tool) two 1/2 inch by 2.5/3 inch bolts with nuts. Slide the metal plate up the shaft to the exhaust housing, then put the nuts on the bolts, insert the bolt up through the outside holes on the metal plate, then attach the two flaring tools to the shaft with a head of each bolt resting on the flaring tool, as you unscrew the nuts, the nuts exert force against the metal plate pushing down on the flaring tools which creates the pulling action. Works like a spark plug puller (look up videos for homemade spark plug puller on you tube).

Mine was so stuck that I ended up removing the entire power head and applying heat. The small torch did not work so I had to use a professional automotive torch, but it came undone!!! Keep the faith if it's still stuck!!!

What I have learned:

Be patient!
Hanging is the best option (I never tried it but that's what people say)
It's hard to defeat gravity
Apply heat only as a last resort (It may harm the crank if used improperly)
50/50 atf and acetone is supposedly the best penetrate you can use
Second only to PB Blaster (I used all of them on the market)
Do not use a slide hammer
A car jack does not make a good driveshaft puller (bends the driveshaft)
Penetrate makes nice flames
The plumping department of home depot has a lot of useful tools
A fitting brush (in the plumbing department is perfect for cleaning your splines once you get it apart)
WestMarine is too expensive (in my opinion)
All the information you need is on this site
Once you get the ds/cs apart clean thoroughly
Grease only the splines and not the top of the ds when you put it back together (prevents hydrolock)
Don't give up!


Good Luck!





.....and all this started because my motor was overheating. hopefully this overhaul will make her purr for another 43 years!