1973 55hp engine temp alarm

[kjburr]

Hi. I just have a quick question. I tried to wire up so that the temp alarm will work on my ignition, but when I hook the two wires coming from the alarm, one goes to orange, and I thought the other went to blue, but when I do that it stays on whenever the key is on. Should I hook it to the red wire which is the battery? Then wouldn't it run my battery dead, or not neccessarily because the alarm hasn't kicked on yet? Thanks!

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: 1973 55hp engine temp alarm

You have it wired correctly. --MAYBE! One wire attaches to orange and the other attaches to the "I" terminal which may or may not have a blue wire depending upon ignition type. with this arrangement, IF the overheat indicator alarms, when you stop the engine, it goes off so as to not continually annoy you and drain the battery. Red is a constant always on power source and you don't want to use that.

If the alarm is constantly sounding with the ignition on, then you need to look for a short to ground in the orange wiring. Power is always going to the buzzer with the key in run position. When the overheat switch on the engine gets hot, it goes to ground, allowing current to flow and the buzzer to sound or light to glow.

 

[kjburr]

Re: 1973 55hp engine temp alarm

The "I" terminal seems to be completely grounded. I do have magneto ignition if this makes a difference. Any other suggestions? I think the coils are grounding the blue wire, grounding the alarm if this makes any sense.

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: 1973 55hp engine temp alarm

If you have magneto ignition, the blue wire and the white wire are the stop circuit. They should be connected 1 each to the "M" terminals. They ground the points to stop the engine so yes, this is not the correct wire to attache one side of the buzzer to.

Red comes from the battery and supplies power to the switch for the "C", "I", and "S" terminals. So again, the power TO the buzzer needs to be from "I" and the other wire connects to orange. ORANGE DOES NOT connect to the switch

 

[wickware]

Re: 1973 55hp engine temp alarm

Hello Kjburr,

If you could post some good sharp Pic of your ignition switch where the colors of wires and markings on the switch are showing (as best as possible) this will help to diagnose your problem. This could be a Challenge if your dash is tight as mine. I usually shoot a Pics in the blind (after looking with a mirror first) and can usually learn where to place the camera to get the best Pics. I?ll plan to try some Pics of my 1970, 35 HP Chrysler that I feel is similar when the weather allows. I need to crawl under to safely mount a new 12v horn that is my overheating warning device. Plus I want my Pics for my records.

JOW

 

[wickware]

Re: 1973 55hp engine temp alarm

Taking Pics under the dash was too much of a challenge today but I did mount my horn. It probably would be better to drop the switch to get good Pics with switch?s markings showing (in less time if the wires will let you quickly drop low enough). Attached are the ?Best Of Worst actually taken under the dash, ?Pointing & Shooting?. Not Good! Except, I feel you can see the orange wire (from the thermostat is attached to the horn/alarm vs switch. There is also a horn button in this nest, since the horn works as a regular horn also.

JOW

 

[kjburr08]

Re: 1973 55hp engine temp alarm

it seems to me that my problem was I was trying to attatch both the buzzer and orange to the ignition switch. once i remove them from the switch and just connected them together, it seems to be working properly. i tested for positive juice with a test light and it showed juice with the key on. now all i can do is hope that if my engine ever does overheat that I will know it. it should work! thanks

 

[wickware]

Re: 1973 55hp engine temp alarm

Please send Pics anyway. I would like to compare our efforts. The quality of Pics enhances concerns and communications. Plus, Pics will help all of us on future projects, needs.

JOW