Hello all! Ok, I know there are a million posts, and I think I have read most of them, but think I am still needing a bit of advice! I have a 1973 Chrysler outboard, 70 HP that has been running just fine, up until a short time ago!
Purred like a kitten the entire trip, until we went to head back to the camp. Started on the hole shot, reached about half way, and the motor "stumbled" and stalled, and would not start again for love nor money! Once we made it home (thanks to the 4.5 Evinrude kicker!), checked everything over carefully, including checking timing, and it was off by a couple of degrees (retarded), so moved it back to 30 degree's BTDC (static), and the motor started and idled fine, a couple of times, that day! This equates to about 4 degrees BTDC at idle, btw. Flywheel marked at 36 degree's and 0 degrees. Verified that flywheel TDC appears to match TDC with cylinder 1 (top cylinder), with screwdriver, and slowly turning flywheel.
About a week later, attempted to start, before taking it to the lake, without having touched anything, and the motor would not start, not for love nor money!
Checked plugs-all 3 have spark, seems good-blue/white and sharp crack. Can't be gapped-they are a type with a centre "circle" and the arc goes to the outside from the circle. Seem to be ok though, as they all spark good!
Checked points and re-gapped-these were slightly wider than spec-reset to 0.014 per spec sheet from Seloc (I know, I hear it's not great, but all I have to go by!)
Coil-quite new, did test with multimeter, shows voltage across the two outside terminals, precisely the same as battery voltage, 13.64 volts (going by memory-I believe it was the two outside posts I tested across-not cranking the motor, I live by myself).
Battery-Reads 13.64 volts, not connected to anything, deep cycle marine battery. Was also recently used in my girlfriends old chevy with the 350 V8, started that motor easier than it's ever started this 70 HP Chrysler! Battery seems good!
Tried testing voltage along the battery cables, but can't hit the ignition while testing (for a voltage drop test), but cut cables back to remove some corrosion at cable ends, cable looks almost like new, shiny copper color. Voltage tested at solenoid end showed precisely the same as voltage at battery (13.64 volts). Cables very old, but seem to be good.
Problem-began with no start-fuel bowl filling with fresh gas and 2 stroke oil mixture, bulb going rock solid when pumped up, choke engaging, spark, timing on, butterfly's able to open freely, even smell fuel in cylinder, when plugs removed and motor turning over, but won't start!
Putting my thumb over the empty spark plug hole (I just purchased a compression tester today!) the motor would get very stiff when that piston would come up, but I could hear a "hiss" of air, as I just turned the flywheel by hand. Air was not leaking out past my thumb and hissing. Can't say for sure if it was heading out the exhaust port though...
All 3 cylinders do the same, motor very easy to turn over when all plugs removed, but VERY hard to turn over, if spark plug hole is covered (with thumb or plug). Looked at pistons (as much as I could see, with a flashlight, through spark plug hole, seem ok, no holes or excessive wear visible).
Add to the problem-starter seems to be intermittant/slow now-will usually spin very fast for a second or two, then goes slower, almost like battery is dead, yet battery still has a good charge to it, and attempts to boost do not make the starter spin faster. Attempts to "Jump" the starter (bypassing the battery cables/solenoid) do not make the starter go faster either! Starter teeth do engage while it spins fast, then fall out of the flywheel, as starter slows down.
Ok, seems like the starter has gone bad, after the no start problem, but what could be my no start issue? Anything I have missed, or should double check?
Am I going to be able to spin the motor over fast enough with a rope pull cord, to test compression?
Thank you in advance, for any help/suggestions!
Dave.
Purred like a kitten the entire trip, until we went to head back to the camp. Started on the hole shot, reached about half way, and the motor "stumbled" and stalled, and would not start again for love nor money! Once we made it home (thanks to the 4.5 Evinrude kicker!), checked everything over carefully, including checking timing, and it was off by a couple of degrees (retarded), so moved it back to 30 degree's BTDC (static), and the motor started and idled fine, a couple of times, that day! This equates to about 4 degrees BTDC at idle, btw. Flywheel marked at 36 degree's and 0 degrees. Verified that flywheel TDC appears to match TDC with cylinder 1 (top cylinder), with screwdriver, and slowly turning flywheel.
About a week later, attempted to start, before taking it to the lake, without having touched anything, and the motor would not start, not for love nor money!
Checked plugs-all 3 have spark, seems good-blue/white and sharp crack. Can't be gapped-they are a type with a centre "circle" and the arc goes to the outside from the circle. Seem to be ok though, as they all spark good!
Checked points and re-gapped-these were slightly wider than spec-reset to 0.014 per spec sheet from Seloc (I know, I hear it's not great, but all I have to go by!)
Coil-quite new, did test with multimeter, shows voltage across the two outside terminals, precisely the same as battery voltage, 13.64 volts (going by memory-I believe it was the two outside posts I tested across-not cranking the motor, I live by myself).
Battery-Reads 13.64 volts, not connected to anything, deep cycle marine battery. Was also recently used in my girlfriends old chevy with the 350 V8, started that motor easier than it's ever started this 70 HP Chrysler! Battery seems good!
Tried testing voltage along the battery cables, but can't hit the ignition while testing (for a voltage drop test), but cut cables back to remove some corrosion at cable ends, cable looks almost like new, shiny copper color. Voltage tested at solenoid end showed precisely the same as voltage at battery (13.64 volts). Cables very old, but seem to be good.
Problem-began with no start-fuel bowl filling with fresh gas and 2 stroke oil mixture, bulb going rock solid when pumped up, choke engaging, spark, timing on, butterfly's able to open freely, even smell fuel in cylinder, when plugs removed and motor turning over, but won't start!
Putting my thumb over the empty spark plug hole (I just purchased a compression tester today!) the motor would get very stiff when that piston would come up, but I could hear a "hiss" of air, as I just turned the flywheel by hand. Air was not leaking out past my thumb and hissing. Can't say for sure if it was heading out the exhaust port though...
All 3 cylinders do the same, motor very easy to turn over when all plugs removed, but VERY hard to turn over, if spark plug hole is covered (with thumb or plug). Looked at pistons (as much as I could see, with a flashlight, through spark plug hole, seem ok, no holes or excessive wear visible).
Add to the problem-starter seems to be intermittant/slow now-will usually spin very fast for a second or two, then goes slower, almost like battery is dead, yet battery still has a good charge to it, and attempts to boost do not make the starter spin faster. Attempts to "Jump" the starter (bypassing the battery cables/solenoid) do not make the starter go faster either! Starter teeth do engage while it spins fast, then fall out of the flywheel, as starter slows down.
Ok, seems like the starter has gone bad, after the no start problem, but what could be my no start issue? Anything I have missed, or should double check?
Am I going to be able to spin the motor over fast enough with a rope pull cord, to test compression?
Thank you in advance, for any help/suggestions!
Dave.
