1973 Evinrude Mate 2 Repair

[PwhyTwhy]

Hello everyone! I have frequently been searching for information regarding this motor since I bought it approximately 1 month ago. I picked it up at a garage sale after it was sitting for 9 years. I dropped some gas in it and away it fired. It ran very well on a side mount for my canoe. I was planning on rebuilding the carb but wanted to play with it first. Unfortunately the motor mount I was using broke when the prop was cavitating in some waves and the motor fell into the water after 3 days of fishing with it. Luckily I tied it off.

Since then I have not been able to get it running again. I cleaned and rebuilt the carb as i was going to anyways. Replaced what appeared to be the original M44 plug with a J6C. And while I was puling it over after i thought I flooded the cylinder I noticed a large amount of water shooting out of the spark plug hole with each pull.

So I need to know where to go next with this. There is great spark with the new plug. The carb is freshly rebuilt. The prop is turn freely and nicely when Im pulling the flywheel. I know the impeller is clearly working because its pulling water up the leg to the cylinder. Clearly something is broken which separates the cylinder exhaust system from the cooling water. I know this has a unique water cooling system from typical outboards I am familiar with. Are there any particular parts or areas of the exhaust manifold I should be focusing on?

Thank you very much for any input you may have. This is the perfect little outboard for my canoe and I am going to miss it dearly if I cant get it going again.

Mike

 

[Joe Reeves]

The rusting process starts as soon as the engine is removed from the water... Get it running ASAP or tear it down to clean and oil everything.

Remove the flywheel... clean the points with lacquer thinner or acetone, then set the points so that a .020 gauge will go through but a .022 will not. Blow the magneto area out with pressurized air. Check that the spark will jump a 1/4" gap with a strong blue spark.

Adjust the carburetor as follows:
(Carburetor Adjustments - Two Adjustable N/Vs)
(J. Reeves)

Initial settings are: Bottom high speed = seat gently, then open 1 turn out. Top slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Setting the high and low needle valves properly:

NOTE: For engines that DO NOT have a shift selection, obviously there is no NEUTRAL position. Simply lower the rpms to the lowest setting to obtain the low speed needle valve adjustment.

(High Speed) Start engine (it will run pretty rough), shift into forward gear, take up to full throttle. In segments of 1/8 turn, waiting for the engine to respond between turns, start turning in the bottom high speed needle valve. You'll reach a point whereas the engine will either start to die out or spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the needle valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest setting.

(Low Speed) Slow the engine down to where it just stays running. Shift into neutral. Again in segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the top needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running. Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back. Again, at that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

When you have finished the above adjustments, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.

 

[Chinewalker]

If it went under running, I'd bet you blew the head gasket. Pull the head and see.

 

[PwhyTwhy]

Hey fellas, thanks for the quick replies. I got a bit excited last night and ripped most of it apart other then then the flywheel and those components. I pulled off the exhaust cover and did not see anything obvious. I then pulled the motor head off the exhaust manifold and everything looked intact. I of course did not really know what i was looking at. I then put the piston at top dead center and blew some air into the spark plug hole and felt air blowing out the water jacket passages. So a last ditch effort I pulled the head gasket and it appears to have been blown out. And in hind site it all makes sense as you cant compress water very well. Wish i had started with the head gasket as suggested because it is the cheapest gasket i just ordered, but I learned a ton about this little motor. And i can now apply this to my 1995 4hp merc if ever need. I can almost guarantee my outboards will only get newer and nicer from here.

I will clean everything up and let everyone know how the rebuild goes once the parts come in. Nothing appears to have started to rust thanks to our dry Alberta climate and lake water plus all the fuel and WD 40 i have pumped through it trying to start it since the incident. Thanks again!
I do want to take apart the flywheel and those components but I am more hesitant because the last time I took a nut of something like that I regretted everything. Although this seems like a great little motor to learn some valuable lessons on.

Mike