1973 MC-1 Outdrive

[JimEd B]

Well, evening fellers.

I got a wild hare and bought a 1973 glasply with a 1973 MC-1 hung on the back. Power is an inline 4 banger. Has an Alpha 1 3.0 LX spark arrestor on it and a rusty data plate so its true identity is currently between it and the lord. Runs good though.

Got drive off. Resealed it, replaced water pump, and dug 40 years of sand out of all the cavities. After that tidy up, she's ready to roll.

Been having a real go with the drive housing though. Someone used the wrong gasket on the drive, took it on saltwater once or twice, which trapped saltwater in the U joined bellows and around the shift lever/cable.

Shift cable nut spun despite a lot of heat cycling, lube and a few prayers prior. Somebody already tapped this bell housing for new style cable, but they didn't give the threads any love... so we're right back where they started plus a hunk of brass in the way. Will drill and tap, but wanted to get it off so I can do that with a press instead of a hand drill.

Hinge pins have the dang nails, which have corroded themselves in place. I've tried getting them out with every tool in my kit, and got nothing. Resorted to trying to drill out the heads and punch them though from the aft side, but still no dice.

Figured I'd try force, and broke a 1/4 28 grade 5 off in the hinge pin threads. I'd already cleaned and lubed those threads, so can probably get that back out easily.

Slide hammer useless on the gimbal bearing itself.

So at this point, I'm already $400 in parts and tools on a drive housing assembly I can't get apart.

I think I can probably figure out how to replace that gimbal bearing and bellows without getting the bell housing off.

But then I'm left with a hinge pin with half a retention nail and a gimbal ring with and over-bored retention nail hole for the first quarter inch from the aft side.

Everything else is corroded together as well.

Considering using the angle grinder to get this off, and replacing the gimbal ring and bell housing entirely.

But I'm not sure which gimbal rings will fit my MC-1. Turns out most parts are NLA for a 50 year old drive, and most MC-1 wisdom seems to be with the latest units.

Mine has no trim sender that I can see. Shift cables are parallel to the transom, and there is a random hydraulic actuator on the inside of the transom that I believe went to the old style trim sender somehow.

I'm getting a bit discouraged here.

Any sage advice?

 

[Bondo]

Slide hammer useless on the gimbal bearing itself.

Ayuh,.... Welcome Aboard,...... Clean the crud outa there, it might still have the snap-ring holdin' it,.....
If so, pull the snap-ring out, then try it,.....
The snap-ring can be tossed, it don't need it,....

 

[kenny nunez]

At this point you will be better off locating a later used gimbal housing from 76-90. There are some marine salvage yards around the country that will have what you need.
In Marrero just next to New Orleans there is a place called The Boat Yard.
They have plenty used parts. Just google them.

 

[JimEd B]

Ayuh,.... Welcome Aboard,...... Clean the crud outa there, it might still have the snap-ring holdin' it,.....
If so, pull the snap-ring out, then try it,.....
The snap-ring can be tossed, it don't need it,....

At this point you will be better off locating a later used gimbal housing from 76-90. There are some marine salvage yards around the country that will have what you need.
In Marrero just next to New Orleans there is a place called The Boat Yard.
They have plenty used parts. Just google them.

Will that later housing bolt up to the same spot?

 

[JimEd B]

Ayuh,.... Welcome Aboard,...... Clean the crud outa there, it might still have the snap-ring holdin' it,.....
If so, pull the snap-ring out, then try it,.....
The snap-ring can be tossed, it don't need it,....

Roger that, thanks for the tip. I dont recall seeing a snap ring last night, but I walked away when I stopped laughing.

Here are some more photos.

Really think I need to replace the whole housing? I think I probably clobbered the gimbal ring trying to drill out the nail, but was hoping not to pull the engine and go through all that.

 

[JimEd B]

Roger that, thanks for the tip. I dont recall seeing a snap ring last night, but I walked away when I stopped laughing.

Here are some more photos.

Really think I need to replace the whole housing? I think I probably clobbered the gimbal ring trying to drill out the nail, but was hoping not to pull the engine and go through all that.

ALSO, my apologies.

Thanks for the warm welcome here folks. I sure appreciate it.

 

[Bt Doctur]

If the nails were corroded so are the pins and there not coming out, you can try forcing them inward to shear the nails ,but...........................................
A replacement housing is highly recommended

 

[JimEd B]

Aye,

I dont really want to take a lot of chances. This boat is destined for Sekiu Salmon and Halibut fishing, with kids and an 80 year old dad.

I suppose the next question is compatibility. Will an Alpha One housing fit in the same spot and use my same drive?

Has anyone ever pulled off getting a housing swapped without pulling the engine?

 

[kenny nunez]

All you will have to do is cut out some material on both sides of the transom cut out and drill 2 new holes.
The outer plate cannot be replaced with the engine in place.
Do not be surprised if the wood in the transom is rotted.
Keep us posted.

 

[Bt Doctur]

remove the engine, remove the inner plate, remove the outer housing

 

[achris]

Has Hasone ever pulled off getting a housing swapped without pulling the engine?

No. Can't be done. Pull the engine, it's not a difficult job.

Give the age, just short of 50 years, well passed the 'use by date' of the engine, and condition of that drive and transom assembly it sounds very much like it will be cheaper and far more reliable to find a good, late model, 3L package. Plenty of rotten hulled Bayliners out there with good engines (take the lot; engine, transom assembly, drive. And don't forget the instrument cluster!).

 

[JimEd B]

No. Can't be done. Pull the engine, it's not a difficult job.

Give the age, just short of 50 years, well passed the 'use by date' of the engine, and condition of that drive and transom assembly it sounds very much like it will be cheaper and far more reliable to find a good, late model, 3L package. Plenty of rotten hulled Bayliners out there with good engines (take the lot; engine, transom assembly, drive. And don't forget the instrument cluster!).

This has gone from a bellows job to a full engine swap. Engine seems good to me, and I believe it's a 90's 3.0 just not positive. I need to get the oil sender off so I can tidy up the data plate.

Good compression, fires up, idles, sounds smooth. Has some surface corrosion, but I think I can knock that down with a brush on the angle grinder.

Gimbal housing also seems to function, it just doesn't want to come apart.

I'm debating just replacing the bearing / shift cable / bellows and running it as is. I have a yamaha kicker, so long as the drive doesn't fall off and leave a hole should be able to get home.

If I have to sink another 5 grand into repowering this boat with a used engine, I'd rather hang an offshore bracket and a used outboard.

But ultimately, I want the thing functioning as soon as possible. A swap might not be too time intensive.

 

[JimEd B]

Ayuh,.... Welcome Aboard,...... Clean the crud outa there, it might still have the snap-ring holdin' it,.....
If so, pull the snap-ring out, then try it,.....
The snap-ring can be tossed, it don't need it,....

Good eye! Thanks!

 

[BigWeakSauce]

Hey Jim I just went through a very similar situation, some of these fine gentleman here helping me thru of course. If you havent yet purchased new transom assembly components you dont need to. Being that your nails were so corroded to the ring I'd probably recommend a ring replacement but you can remove/replace the ring and bell housing without removing the engine. Willing to bet like mine your trim sender, which is located in the top of the gimbal ring behind the swivel steering pin, is toast. The gimbal ring replacement is actually pretty simple, the lower swivel pin will need a few good whacks with a hammer/chisel to break free after removing the cotter pin but I was able to find a replacement gimbal ring for my boat at a shop near me with scrap boats.
I have faith you can bring the current assembly back to life assuming the gimbal housing is still OK, and definitely worth a try because as the others mentioned, one new component back there means an entire transom assembly replacement if you cant find the exact replacement.

 

[JimEd B]

Hey Jim I just went through a very similar situation, some of these fine gentleman here helping me thru of course. If you havent yet purchased new transom assembly components you dont need to. Being that your nails were so corroded to the ring I'd probably recommend a ring replacement but you can remove/replace the ring and bell housing without removing the engine. Willing to bet like mine your trim sender, which is located in the top of the gimbal ring behind the swivel steering pin, is toast. The gimbal ring replacement is actually pretty simple, the lower swivel pin will need a few good whacks with a hammer/chisel to break free after removing the cotter pin but I was able to find a replacement gimbal ring for my boat at a shop near me with scrap boats.
I have faith you can bring the current assembly back to life assuming the gimbal housing is still OK, and definitely worth a try because as the others mentioned, one new component back there means an entire transom assembly replacement if you cant find the exact replacement.

Hey Bud!

Thanks for the encouragement. I've got my eyes peeled. I think this ring itself might still be useable. I've bored out the old pins. Also bored and re-tapped the shift cable hole.

That said I've got my eyes peeled for a replacement. Bellhousing exhaust port has some holes, and could just generally use a new ring.

Neighbor has a cherry picker if it comes down to it. I've got a bunch of new bolt on motor parts in the mail (oil sender, alternator, fuel pump, coil), but was hoping to install without ganking out the whole mess.

I'm used to working on commercial diesel trucks... that's how I earn my boat fixin'/mortgage money. After looking a bit harder, my hesitation to pull this motor is mostly cowardice. Compared to my fleet's Hino 268 rats nest, pulling this motor will be like taking candy from a baby.

All of that said, April 22 is coming up fast... and after the last year, I need to spend some time smoking cigars and staring at a fishing rod waiting for it to move. Less work between me and that moment the better.

Hope y'all are having a great weekend.

-Jed

 

[JimEd B]

Evening Fellers,

Days off disappeared there for a while. Halibut opener on the glasply looking a bit less than likely, bummer.

Good news, I got the shift cable bored and tapped, new gimbal bearing in, the water line on and drive shaft bellows all glued up and clamped on this evening. Hoping to get the new shift cable pulled through, shift / exhaust bellows and the drive bolted back on tomorrow.

Then on to the upper shift cable, and finally to the engine where a guy like me has a clue what the heck he is looking at.

I've taught the neighbors how to properly cuss a boat into compliance, and had a decent time myself.

Hope all is well with you folks,

-Jed