Its a b**ch to work with ill tell you that much. Kinda wish I had went with all cloth. I mean I know that 1708 is supposed to be stronger and I totally see that from what I have done, but man, the crap CHUGS resin AND is hard to work with. Not the greatest two qualities to have. See, its the way that you have to work with its grain charicteristics that is the toughest part. It is so expensive I dont want to waste it so I cant convince myself to, for example, cut it diagonally so the piece I am working with has the grain going parallel to it. THat is just too much waste for me. Not to mention, just wait till you start to wet it out. It like pouring water from a dixie cup onto a bonfire! If you dont get that, you will! Good luck and I am continuing to watch your thread as well.
) Nothing real spacial. I'm getting rid of the ski locker, so i was going to use treated ply wood for the deck over the stringers.
The project has begun, i need to know can i use treated for my transom,stringer and deck. Of course i will be glassing all of it.I have woven roven 24 oz, this stuff is thick and heavy. I was going to run it down and over transom and over the stringer and along the sides if the walls. I'm going with a below deck tank 18 gallons (thanks Chris
Somebody Plz correct me if my plans is off the mark before i mess something up
OK question time,I'm going with The West System 105 Epoxy Resin and 206 Hardener. I know its a little pricey but why not buy the best.
1.Do I need to add one of there fillers for strength
2. I dont know if I asked this before, but after I got my glass all laid out how i want it, do i apply resin to wet it out then add hardener or do i mix them first
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Jonezin- I would advise you to look on West System's website and check out "How to use" and read the epoxy handbook on Merton's website: DO YOURSELF A FAVOR AND READ THE STICKEY AT THE TOP OF THE FORUM!
http://www.mertons.com/Epoxy/epoxy_resins/system_three.html
Everyone can correct me if I'm wrong but...
- treated doesn't equal better...it has to be totally dried which takes months, heavier and more expensive (but less then marine grade)THIS IS ABSOLUTELY CORRECT. UNLESS YOU HAVE LOTS TO DO WHILE THE TREATED IN DRYING OR IF YOU DONT HAVE ACCESS TO A KILN, I WOULD SKIP TREATED AND GO WITH EXTERIOR GRADE AB PLY OR IF YOU CAN FIND THE ARRUCCO PLY THAT I AM USING IT IS TOP NOTCH!
- System Three and US Composites epoxies are just as good from what I hear and cheaper so why not save a few $$$?ABSOLUTELY, i WOULD RECCOMEND GOING TO WWW.USCOMPOSITES.COM TO ORDER SUPPLIES. THEY HAVE THE BEST PRICES NOT TO MENTION EXCELLENT CUSTOMER SERVICE AND THEIR TURN AROUND TIME IS CRAZY. I HAVE ORDERED 3 SEPERATE TIMES FROM THEM AND EACH TIME I GET A TRACKING NUMBER WITHIN A DAY OF MY ORDER AND THEN IT HAS BEEN 5 DAYS TOTAL TURN AROUND FROM ORDER TO MY DOOR. THAT IS JUST KILLER! CHECK OUT MY LIST ON PAGE ONE. I WILL POST IT WITH AN EDIT TODAY UPDATING IT SO IT IS CURRENT AND THEN I WILL ALSO ADD DESCRIPTIONS WITH MY OPINION OF EACH PRODUCT AND WHETHER IT IS USEFUL OR NOT. I MAY EVEN TAKE PICTURES OF IT ALL.
- Filler depends on what you're filling? Generally speaking though, I'm going to using Thixotrophic Powder to mix with my epoxy to make glue and fillets. I TELL YA WHAT, I HAVE USED CABOSIL EXCLUSIVELY AND I HAVE NO NEED FOR ANYTHING ELSE. THE EPOXY I AM USING IS WAY STRONG ENOUGH TO NO NEED ANY ADDITIONAL FIBERS ADDED TO IT. IT JUST NEEDS SOMETHING TO THICKEN IT. I GOT A GIANT BUCKET FROM USCOMP FOR LIKE 40 BUCKS. THERE IS NO WAY I WILL USE IT ALL. I MAY PUT IT UP FOR SALE AT SOME TIME AFTER MY BUILD.
- Resin and hardner both need to be mixed before wood and/or glass applications. STEP BY STEP HERE FOR YOU. THIS IS HOW I DO IT. WORKS WELL I THINK.
1) (THIS IS UP TO YOU) ONCE YOU GET YOUR WOOD CUT AND FITTED I LIKE TO COAT THE RAW WOOD WITH SEVERAL COATS OF EPOXY BEFORE I GLASS IT. THAT WAY IF YOU HAVE A SPOT THAT HAS AIR OR A TEAR WHERE WATER CAN GET THROUGH THEN THE WOOD ITSELF IS PROTECTED. THIS WOULD PROBABLY BUY YOU A FEW YEARS OF LIFESPAN...MAYBE. YOU WANT TO SAND ANY ROUGH EDGES OR SPLINTERS THEN WAS IT DOWN WITH ACETONE BEFORE COATING.
2) PRECUT YOU GLASS
3) MIX YOUR EPOXY(I RECCOMEND THE DOSING PUMPS) AND MAKE SURE YOU MIX IT WELL. I USE A DRILL MIXER THAT I GOT FROM USCOMP.
4) USING EITHER A BRUSH OR ROLLER, FULLY WET THE SURFACE YOU ARE GLASSING BEFORE PUTTING THE GLASS ON, THE MORE THE BETTER HERE.
5)LAY YOUR GLASS DOWN MAKING SURE YOU DONT TEAR OR BUNCH UP THE FABRIC. THEN I ROLL IT WITH MY GLASS ROLLER(BUBBLE BUSTER) TO GET IT TO SUCK UP THE RESIN THAT WAS APPLIED.
6) USING YOUR BRUSH OR ROLLER FULLY COAT THE GLASS UNTIL IT GOES CLEAR, KEEP WORKING MORE RESIN IN TO IT TILL THIS HAPPENS.
7) ONCE CLEAR, TAKE A SQUEEGEE TO IT AND PULL HARD ENOUGH TO GET THE AIR AND EXCESS RESIN OUT. YOU WILL KNOW IF YOU HAVE GOTTEN THE EXCESS OUT BY SEEING THE GLASS GO FROM GLOSSY TO DULL.
8) DRINK A FEW BEERS WHILE YOU WAIT FOR IT TO START SETTING UP. ONCE IT DOES, MAKE SURE THAT ALL YOUR GLASS IS STUCK DOWN AND THAT THERE ARE NO AIR POCKETS.
9) DRINK ANOTHER BEER, YOUR DONE!
Chris- Thanks for checking out my thread. I have a pretty good grasp on the transom. However when I get to it, I may have questions so I hope you won't mind if I ask them then. As for boating/racing, well I might have to take you up on that but it probably won't be until next year (hopefully). Where do you do your boating at?
NO PROB, YOU ARE DOING A GOOD JOB AND I WOULD LOVE TO BOAT WITH YOU. I NORMALLY GO TO THE DELAWARE LAKE THAT IS ACROSS THE STREET FROM MY HOUSE. BUT I HAVE ONLY BOATED 3 TIMES WITH THIS BOAT. CURRENTLY I DO ALL MY BOATING IN MY GARAGE...
Well, you guys summed Dayton up pretty well...airport, bar district and the Nutter Center! Anything more would just be a disappointment
OH THATS GREAT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! WHY HAVENT I THOUGHT OF THAT ONE. You and I will get along great! I am 28 and my wife is 32. we dont have any kids yet unfourtunatley but we try we are only like 60 some miles apart, is there any lakes in between? if you hurry up, we will be done around the same time. I am not counting on boating this year unless you take me out on yours but next spring I will be chompin at the bit retsta go!
WHAT PART ARE YOU REFERRING TO? LIKE I SAID I HAVE A SPARE MOTOR 115HP SO IF THERE IS SOMETHING THAT YOU NEED FROM IT LET ME KNOW.Thanks for the info guys, I want to go boating tooooooooooo
This year is lost, but next spring just call me Davey Jones
Hey I just looked at that fist post and your boat looks a lot like mine and you putting a 150 on yours?
LOOKS ARE DECIEVING. MY BOAT IS A TANK! IT WAS MADE WITH STRENGTH IN MIND. NOT ENGINEERED, BUT THEY USED THE MODO "KNOW ITS STRONG ENOUGH" SO MINE IS RATED AT 125HP WHICH IS JUST SLIGHTLY OVERPOWERING, BUT IT IS STILL OVERPOWERED YOU ARE CORRECT. MINE IS ALSO 16.5' LONG SO HERE SIZE DOES MATTER! THE LONGER AND WIDER THE BOAT, TYPICALLY THE MORE POWER IT CAN HANDLE. IT IS STEERING CONTROL THAT IS REALLY AT STAKE, NOT WHETHER THE TRANSOM CAN HANDLE IT. MOST OF US COULD BUILD A DINGEE THAT WAS STRONG ENOUGH TO HOLD A 300HP MOTOR BUT YOU COULDNT PAY ME ENOUGH TO DRIVE THE DAMN THING!
Ok treated is out but what size did you use for your stringer i have a couple of 2x6'6 and is gorilla glus ok to hold the stringer in place while i epoxy them?
I USED 3/4" PLY AND i WOULD NOT USE ANYTHING OTHER THAN EPOXY PB OR PL TO BED THEM IN. THESE METHODS ARE TRIED AND TRUE.
And do anybody have a spare steer control i ran over mine today and blew a tire in the ordeal. Kids gotta love them (SO THEY SAY UNTIL THEY GET IN YOUR STUFF)
Looks like ordering more resin is in store for me...cha ching$$$$ It is starting to seem like the expenditures will never end. I am now left with $600 dollars left of my original budget. THat money was to include engine machining AND new interior. I joked to my wife that this thing was gonna end up totaling 5000 dollars by the end of it and now I guess the jokes on me. I think I will hit that mark before its all said and done. I will post pictures of my progress tomorrow after another days work. My buddy that helps me on Sundays is not going to be able to make it so I guess I hope to be able to at least get the other outer stringer glassed and then I will see where I am resin wise. Bummer...
WOW, you are right when you said your post was exactly like mine! Yep, mat is evil resin sucking .. stuff. Somehow I managed to miss your resto on here. No idea how. Man, your hull is smooth as can be! You def spend more time grinding than I did. I still have some humps and bumps everywhere from the chines and divits of the old wood. Yours looks brand new in that pic of the transom and the end of the stringer. Pretty, even
Are you using PL entirely for the filleting or PB resin? If resin, how are you applying it? I'm having a PITA time getting it from bucket to final resting place without globs everywhere. I've literally resorted to scooping it with my hands and slapping it into every foot or so, but that just means cleanup once it is smoothed out. Got a photo of your filleting stick?
