1974 35 HP Chrysler Parts

[KSkinner]

I recently inherited a 1974 Monark with a 35 HP Chrysler outboard.

The motor and boat have been sitting up for over two years due to the owners illness (cancer).

I have a few parts I will surely need after an inspection of the motor. One is sown in the picture included with this post. I am looking for parts outlets for this motor since there are none locally.

The plate inside the motor gives this information
Model Number - 357HE
Serial Number - 3141
35 BHP @ 4750 RPM
Full Power Speed Range - 4400 to 5100 RPM

This is the part I will need shown in the picture... I ordered a manual but it will take 10 days for it to arrive and I wanted to see if any of you guys may know the part number and a source to purchase the part?

I set up a web page on my server with some additional images and information if anyone may be interested in looking the page over for a better look at the motor the URL is:
http://www.bayouvisions.com/35hp
Thanks in advance for your time and trouble... I am fixing this boat for my nephew to fish with (he is a great kid and has no father).
Keith

 

[eurolarva]

Re: 1974 35 HP Chrysler Parts

You are zoomed in too close on the pic but it looks like your bearing cage. Part number from merc is 31-817731A5 and cost is around 100 bucks. The bearing cage is between the prop and the lower unit. It should have two screws and two empty screw holes for a harmonic balancer remover. That crack was probably caused by not draining the lower unit in the fall. If water gets in there it expands when it freezes and it is trashed. You might want to take a closer look. A lot of times that cracking also happens on the lower unit.

 

[KSkinner]

Re: 1974 35 HP Chrysler Parts

@ eurolarva
Thanks for the info... You are correct on the part. I found a pace to buy the Bearing Cage - Shaft Seal - Shaft Bearing & Bearing Cage Seal for like you said around $100 with S&H.

I have done a pretty though inspection of the lower unit from the outside and this seems to be the only problem I have found so far.

Would you suggest that I remove the lower unit and replace all related seals / gaskets? If so could you give me an idea of a parts list to do this and some idea of cost.
I was told to replace the impeller since it had been sitting up as long as it has also.

One other thing I would like to do is find a carburetor kit to rebuild it. I have heard SeaFoam was a good marine carb cleaner - any opinions on it?

The motor is super clean - plugs look great, I have not even tried to turn the motor over - I wanted to wait until I get the Prop Bearing Cage replaced so I can put the motor in a 55 gallon drum of water to see if the pump is working. With the seal damaged I certainly don't need to make matters worse I think!

Thanks for the reply - this is a great forum, a lot of good information here!

Keith

 

[eurolarva]

Re: 1974 35 HP Chrysler Parts

If it were me I would put it in a tank and start it before you buy anything for it. If that motor has cylinder damage it could cost you thousands of dollars to get it running. You can remove the bearing cage without taking the lower unit off. Remove prop and the two screws and you can use a harmonic balancer puller or in this case because the cage is shot to pry it off with a screw driver and hammer.

If every thing checks out and motor runs good I prefer Mercury lower unit high performance. Seems thicker and less prone to leaking on older gear housings. A carb kit for that motor is 18-7037 (iboats sell these) along with a fuel pump rebuild kit 18-7806. Here again dont spend money unless you know that motor runs. Compression test and spark test would be best

 

[KSkinner]

Re: 1974 35 HP Chrysler Parts

Okay here are the results so far:
You were absolutely correct when you said that the housing may have damage just as the Prop Shaft Bearing Cage, so I am going to buy a used lower unit for $150 + a water-pump and impeller.
The housing was cracked & during removal of the cage a piece sheared off!

The top end is sweet, runs like a top. I replaced the spark plugs after running a compression check (I had 110# on both cylinders). Replaced all the fuel lines - inside / outside... I dropped the bowl on the carb and pumped the bulb until I got gas to the bowl - reattached the bowl, a small shot of starting fluid, hit the key and she fired right off and idled smooth as silk. No smoke - no rough idle or scary noises!

I am pleased even though I will have to replace the lower unit... I had planned on the need to drop the lower anyway so I could replace the impeller so really all it will set me back is about $50 - $75 and no extra time...

Thanks for your help - I'll be sure to post again after I get it in the water and put a load on the motor.

One thing I found on the boat is a trolling motor problem - It's a MinnKota 40# thrust, the foot control will work the direction great - but I have not been able to make the prop spin, I can hear what sounds like a relay clicking when I hit the control... I'll find a Minn Kota forum now and see if I can troubleshoot this trolling motor and I am in business.

 

[eurolarva]

Re: 1974 35 HP Chrysler Parts

You can try posting the trolling motor in the electronics forum. Somebody there might be able to help you

 

[KSkinner]

Re: 1974 35 HP Chrysler Parts

This is an image of the chunk that busted off the housing...

eurolarva you said in a prior post you preferred Merc lower units... do they make one to fit my motor? The parts to build one from Merc?

I think mine is okay and I will have a spare of everything except the housing so I should be able to make do with what I have - but if it becomes more involved than swapping parts and a few gaskets and bearings I may consider rebuilding mine totally.

Again thanks so much for your help and advise.

Keith

 

[eurolarva]

Re: 1974 35 HP Chrysler Parts

My remark was that the bearing carrier or bearing cage can be purchased through mercury. A mercury lower unit will not fit on that outboard. Chrysler became force which became mercury so mercury still sells a lot of the parts for chrysler. Maybe take that lower unit to a welder and see if they can fix it. The way it looks now I doubt with a new seal and bearing carrier it will seal up tight. I also recommend mercury high performance gear lube.