1974 Johnson 50hp Stuck.

[flyingscott]

Alright then listen to racerone and find the last bolt if you can tip the motor up and look at the bottom of the lower

 

[Chrisravosa36]

I got it out, il get a picture tomm if you like. Im pretty sure ive got all the bolts out, most likley the driveshaft is stuck I assume....

 

[gm280]

I got it out, il get a picture tomm if you like. Im pretty sure ive got all the bolts out, most likley the driveshaft is stuck I assume....

Yes rusted splined drive shafts can stick one solid. Hopefully you can get some penetrating oils up there to help remove it. Once it does come apart, you have to really check the splines on both the drive shaft AND the engines crankshaft. And hopefully both will still be useable again. JMHO!

 

[Chrisravosa36]

Any other tips for removing it? people said to unbolt the power head, and pull it up with a shop crane, will this work? or is heat a better choice?

 

[w2much]

My 2 cents. Had a similar issue on my 150 HP recently. The wood wedges worked for me. For each increment of gap you gain reinstall the bolts and tighten them back up. This will help to loosen whatever rust is seizing the shaft. Don't be greedy and keep putting in more wedges when or if you have some gain. Just tighten bolts up then repeat with more wedges for a bit more gain then repeat again and again. I had to pound on the cavitation plate with a block of wood and a 3 pound hammer to get it started. If you need to do the pounding do it with discretion you do not want to bend the plate and remember that this cast aluminum and can break off. Because the motor is dry once you have some space between the midsection and the l/u you may want to turn the motor upside down and force,squeeze, some of the above mentioned lubricants into the gap , enough that it will reach and soak the drive shaft splines. It will make a mess but it is a shot. Good luck

 

[oldboat1]

Stuck driveshafts are more difficult than stuck flywheels IMO -- can't get directly at the area that's stuck. I've had a couple I stood on to try and move (2x4s on a.v. plate).

But think it would still be a good idea to insure it's unbolted. Good to go to a parts site and check components, if you haven't already: http://epc.brp.com/Index.aspx?lang=E&s1=870f87ea-54cb-44e9-9eaf-85a18d109936 (Drill down to your motor and gear case, e.g., 50473M for '74.)

Concentrate on screws #86(4), #88(1), and #90(1) in the diagram. The trim plate is #84, held up by #74(1). I took you to mean this trim plate was an anode on your motor, which could mean you have a salt water motor -- though not necessarily. If salt water, there can be other issues with disassembly(!!). (Lube is your friend, and sometimes heat.)

#71 is a pivot pin and lock washer assembly for the shift shaft, and may be a disconnect point. I'm not familiar enough with the assembly to say that's it.

 

[Chrisravosa36]

Im positive ive got all the bolts off. I squirted the pb blaster into the shaft (not upside-down) going to let it overnight and see what happens. Also going to try wedges and maybe standing on the AV plate? Also if my brother is around Il tip the motor upside-down and get alot more pb blaster in there.

Also, thank you for all your help, Im waiting on my engine seized kit, should be here this week hopefully.

 

[oldboat1]

yessir. Frustrating. (Don't bust the plate, and don't get hurt....)

Keep posting progress. You might end up in one of the stickies folks turn to.

 

[Chrisravosa36]

Ive got some, good news??? I can almost confirm now it is just rust holding the cylinder, I was worried the guy lied to me and it was overheated. But I found rust in the carb. cleaned that out. I am assuming its alot easier to unseize an engine that has rust than welded together. The guy said he just left it dry, and didnt winterize it over the two winters it was outside. If it came through the carbs, wouldn't it get to the back of the piston, rods or bearings? Could those get damaged? Im wondering if the humidity just built up, it the motor received water through the vent at the top?

 

[racerone]

If the flywheel moves back and forth just a little it is a problem with pistons / rings stuck.-----If there is no movement of flywheel it is a problem with bearings !

 

[Chrisravosa36]

there is absolutely no movement of the flywheel its stuck solid, is it possible its not seized and its the bearings? if so how hard is this to fix?

 

[racerone]

Motor needs to come apart !---Inspect bearings / rods etc.-----Then look for good used parts to make it a runner.

 

[Chrisravosa36]

Ive found bearings online, do you think il really need a parts motor for this? How should I go about this first, Il be receiving the manual today. should I try to the the flywheel first?

 

[racerone]

What bearings have you found ?--------Part #'s of these bearings ?---Are you aware of the rods / crank polished surfaces as part of these bearings ?

 

[Chrisravosa36]

0378251 - Needle Bearing






are you referring to the needle bearings?

 

[racerone]

If water sat inside this motor for any length of time everything will be corroded.-Those needle bearings along with the inner race ( crankshaft ) and the outer race which is the connecting rod.---Wait for your manual.--Then study the manual.---Do not order parts / spend a $ on parts untill the motor is apart !

 

[Chrisravosa36]

Is it a possibly the flywheel is just stuck? Should I remove the back of the carb that plate and inspect them, or try to get the flywheel off?

 

[racerone]

I am not going to comment any further.--------I suggest you wait for your manual.

 

[Chrisravosa36]

I got it, and read through that section. They reccomened to take off the back of the carb plate, showed me how to do it and I did, I got a view of some of the rust, it is were I believe the needle bearings are, I squirted some some deep creep and PB in there, I don't know if that would do it, buts its worth a try. Next ive got to get the wheel puller to pull the flywheel. Tell me how bad these pics look in your opinion.








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[Chrisravosa36]

As I said earlier, I got my manual, and I rea thought it a bit, Wednesday and possibly tomm I am going to work on opening up the crankshaft. I have found a used on e of ebay, in great condition for 60$ if there is a problem with the bearings. Other good news, I got the lowerunit to drop, used wood shims and a hammer, and screwed them tight, undid them, shimmed for a while... worked well, as I can see now the impeller needs to be replaced, one good sized chunk was broke off one of the fins, and it almost felt hardish on the outside. I tested it, and the l.u goes in and out of gears without much resistance. Overall, I am happy with my purchase now, these l.u can go for 500$ on ebay ive seen, so its not like I can lose much monday in this (at least I think :tape