1974 Sunray GT-145 in need of some TLC

Chris_72

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Aug 6, 2015
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Hello all!
I'm Chris and I'm not only new to this forum but I'm also new to boating in general. So new that I've never even been on a boat!
My life consisted of building cars and motorcycles - mostly European stuff. I figured this whole boat thing would be a nice change and some new territory to explore. So I got my first boat. It was really a fluke, and just a "right place at the right time" incident.

So without further ado:

Here is my new toy!
Now I am new to boating, but I have played around with fiberglass before. What I mean is that I have basic knowledge of wetting out and laying up a few layers of non-structural stuff. Mostly custom car audio speaker/amplifier enclosures. I have been reading through many builds on this forum, and trying to get a sense of how things are generally done on marine applications. So far - so good.

The reason I started this thread is because I want to do a cosmetic restoration on my boat. The color is horrible and there are a few problem areas that I'd like to address.

Have a look and please feel free to give me some guidance on the propper methods of fixing the issues.


Spider cracks along the port side

Gelcoat cracked off with dry fibers exposed

More gelcoat cracked off with more fibers poking out

Generally poor sunbaked and cracked gelcoat

Also a bunch of unnecessary screw holes

Overall this thing has seen better days, but I just couldn't resist the style.

As you can see most of the bad spots are all on the topside. I'm guessing repairs to this section would be similar to working on a corvette of similar vintage? Or am I way off on that assumption?
 

Bondo

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I'm guessing repairs to this section would be similar to working on a corvette of similar vintage? Or am I way off on that assumption?

Ayuh,..... Welcome Aboard,.... Yer exactly Right,.... Fixin' fiberglass panels, is fixin' fiberglass panels,.....

I'd go for the structural 1st, then fair, 'n sand it out, then paint it,.... over a full on restore to gelcoat,....
 

Chris_72

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Aug 6, 2015
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I'd go for the structural 1st, then fair, 'n sand it out, then paint it,.... over a full on restore to gelcoat,....

I guess the structural might be a good place to start. Just in case she's got some random twist or unseen issues.

So you recommend sanding down the existing gelcoat and just treating her like a corvette? I've done some work on a 76 stingray so that should be straight forward.
Now the gelcoat is what I haven't played with - do I need to sand it all right off, or just sand till its smooth and hit it with some hi-build primer?
 

Woodonglass

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Before you start on the"Cosmetics" I'd highly recommend that you do a thorough inspection of the boats structural components...i.e. the deck, stringers and transom, to ensure they are seaworthy. Also that the motor is in good running condition. These are the things that are important when it comes to Boat Ownership. A boat without a good running motor is kinda useless!!! A boat with a good running motor but is unsafe to put on the water,is kinda useless. A boat that looks like a Million bucks but is both unsafe and the motor is no good well...you get the idea!!!!:D

Do some core sampling and a compression check on the motor and let us know your results.;)
 

Chris_72

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Aug 6, 2015
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Woodonglass - I've read up a few of your builds, must say - you really do some fine work.
Now the core samples you speak of...
You mean drill into the transom and hope that nice dry wood shavings come out?

Also can I get some specifics on the topic?
My questions are:
Do I drill from the inside, or outside of the transom?
How many holes do I drill?
And finally I'm assuming that I'd use resin to fill the holes?
Sorry about all the questions, I'm just trying my best to get the job done right the first time!
 

Woodonglass

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Woodonglass - I've read up a few of your builds, must say - you really do some fine work. Just an Old Dumb Okie that tries to Help when and Where I can. Just repeating the things I've learned here on the forum and from some life experiences.!!!!;)
Now the core samples you speak of...
You mean drill into the transom and hope that nice dry wood shavings come out? Yup, Exactly!!!

Also can I get some specifics on the topic?
My questions are:
Do I drill from the inside, or outside of the transom? Inside, put some masking tape on the drill @ the 1" mark. Use a 1/4" bit
How many holes do I drill? Several!!! About 6" apart. Start in the middle about 2" up from the hull and work your way to the sides of the hull. Then move up 6" and go again.
And finally I'm assuming that I'd use resin to fill the holes? If all is light colored and Dry then I'd use 3M 5200 Fast Set to fill em.

Sorry about all the questions, I'm just trying my best to get the job done right the first time! Keep asking and we'll keep answerin':sad:


See above!!
 
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Chris_72

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Well, this is great. Thanks so much Woodonglass! I've been on many forums and 99.9% of them the only answer I got was "search the forum" or "try google". Actually answers are few and far between.
I've also been on YouTube watching BoatworksToday and gathering all the info I can. I've got many good points from that channel.
Anyway, my work area is the back yard of a house I'm soon going to be completely renovating - so I'm at the mercy of the weather!
I'll start dumping more pics on here as I get things done on this boat. I'll be starting with the transom checkup as you mentioned. Fingers and toes are crossed!
Access is a bit tight, as this thing is a fairly low profile wannabe speedboat.

Now I need input on something I just noticed - the boat has a Transport Canada tag on it that says the hull is rated for 50hp the motor that's on there is a 65hp. I'm not sure how much of an issue that would be, but any input on the matter would be good.
 

Chris_72

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Aug 6, 2015
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I haven't put it on the water, but it starts and runs real nice on muffs and in a big bucket. I think I'll look deeper into it tonight. I might just dunk it in the lake and go for a quick rip! I know these old Johnson 3cyls tend to only show their faults when you try to work them... And yup... I just bought a paddle!
 
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Woodonglass

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Uhmm do a bounce check on that transom and motor first!!! If you raise the motor and bounce on the lower leg really hard and the transom moves at all then it might not be safe to take her for a spin. And if the floor is soft and the stringers are weak and you start bouncing over waves and wakes that's not a good thing either.:eek:;)
 

Chris_72

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All 210lb of me was bouncing on that motor while it was trimmed up, and there was no give in the transom. That was the first thing I checked when I was buying it. I also was lightly sacking on the hill with a soft rubber mallet to see if there were weak spots. Nothing negative to report. As far as the stringers... That's something I don't know how to check.
 

Woodonglass

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If the inside floor is solid and the transom is too then I'd take her for a spin as long as she don't leak!!!;)
 

Chris_72

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Aug 6, 2015
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Initial ride done. No leaks and she clips along nicely! Now back on land and ready for some work!
I have the West Systems 105 resin and 207 hardener. I believe most people use the 205 hardener, but the 207 is here because I did a lot of carbon fiber work on my project car. Are these 2 products interchangeable? I believe the only difference is that 205 drys with a slight milky haze, but 207 drys perfectly clear. Let me know what you think- should I just go buy the 205?
 

Chris_72

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Aug 6, 2015
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I'll just grab son 205. I'll just save the 207 for some Carbon fiber work that I've been putting off for the past year!
Anyway, I stripped all the metal hardware off the boat - and the carpet. Floor really looks quite solid. I think I'll just pressure wash it and see what it looks like when it drys off.
 
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