1975 135HP Stator and Timer Base

[ezeke]

Re: 1975 135HP Stator and Timer Base

The only reason to check is that the wires have been cut and spliced at the other end (and left above the surface where they were not originally). See the thumbnails for the normal appearance compared to yours.

 

[Randyg123]

Re: 1975 135HP Stator and Timer Base

The only reason to check is that the wires have been cut and spliced at the other end (and left above the surface where they were not originally). See the thumbnails for the normal appearance compared to yours.

Okay, now I have reason to suspect that the wires could be labeled wrong. I did not know they had been cut and spliced.

I assume that I can disconnect the leads from the powerpack and check continuity for each wire to confirm they are set properly. To do so would mean that I will have to mess around with the wires at the timer base and remove the insulation (which I now know is covering a splice). I am just a bit paranoid to mess around in these locations because I do not know how frail the timer coils are or the leads themselves. Didn't want to make matters worse.

But if they were wrong, would the engine even run?

 

[iwombat]

Re: 1975 135HP Stator and Timer Base

Before you go much further, why don't I take out my spare timer base from that era and take some pictures so you know what color wires are supposed to go where. I should be able to get to that tonight.

And yes, it _could_ run it just might run at about 45-degrees advanced on two cylinders and not fire on the other two. Which is kind of what I'm thinking might be happening.

Of course, you might just want to say screw it and look for another timer base.

 

[Randyg123]

Re: 1975 135HP Stator and Timer Base

Before you go much further, why don't I take out my spare timer base from that era and take some pictures so you know what color wires are supposed to go where. I should be able to get to that tonight.

Better yet, why not get that old dusty piece of junk out of you hair and send it my way. It's the least I could do to help. Grab a stator, powerpack, a few leaf boxes and I could use a Johnson 135HP engine cover to replace my current Evinrude 115HP cover. Anything to help you clean out that garage.

No need to rush ship overnight, second day would be fine

I appreciate the photos, I'll look forward to seeing those when I get home this evening. when I pull the base off, the manual refers to special lubricants before putting it back on. What kind of lube should I use (don't have my manual with me but may sto off at the auto parts store on the way home.

 

[Randyg123]

Re: 1975 135HP Stator and Timer Base

...

And yes, it _could_ run it just might run at about 45-degrees advanced on two cylinders and not fire on the other two. Which is kind of what I'm thinking might be happening.

Of course, you might just want to say screw it and look for another timer base.

How'd that happen, I only got the first half of your post!

While idling a dockside mechanic pulled each plug (yes, now I know I am not suppose to do that) and we listened. Each plug pulled caused the engine rpm to drop rather equally. And at WOT 5250rpm everything seems to be fine. All plugs look good.

 

[iwombat]

Re: 1975 135HP Stator and Timer Base

Man, that's weird.

If it was messed up you'd never get to 5k RPMS

 

[Randyg123]

Re: 1975 135HP Stator and Timer Base

So is it not even worth getting into the timer base wiring? Or shall I still confirm everything is okie-dokie. I mean, I got the darn flywheel off now so I might as well rule out everything before I put it back on. I'm game to try just about anything!

Rehash
Engine won't idle below around 1k
WOT at 5250 and seems to run pretty well
Timer stop is cranked all the way in (CW) and just makes the spec setting per J. Reeves method
Carbs done over and over
L&S over and over
Spark >1/2" on all four cylinders

Why the timer stop has to be cranked in all the way is one big sticky wicket for me and thus the reason for popping the flywheel

 

[iwombat]

Re: 1975 135HP Stator and Timer Base

Have you checked the timing at idle? I'm guessing it's way over 4-degrees which is why it won't go down under 1k.

 

[Randyg123]

Re: 1975 135HP Stator and Timer Base

Have you checked the timing at idle? I'm guessing it's way over 4-degrees which is why it won't go down under 1k.

I haven't checked it this year. Last time I did it, it seems like it was okay.

But I am wondering if the timing pointer is set correctly at TDC. Can the pointer movement allowed make that much difference? Looking at the photo of my stator you can see the pointer in the foreground but it is difficult to tell exactly where it is on the mount. But it is close to center I believe. If moving all the way to the left or right, would that make much difference in where the timer stop would have to be?

 

[Randyg123]

Re: 1975 135HP Stator and Timer Base

Just thinking about the pointer being off I think I answered my own question. It looks like from what others have said the stop on my engine is too far in for typical situations. At least a half inch too far. I know it is a fine thread screw so probably 24 or 32 threads per inch. If each turn is approximately one degree of change on the timing then for my timer stop to be about a half inch off, would mean my timing pointer is about 12-18 degrees off. So I think it is safe to assume that the timer pointer adjustment would not cover this much rotation.

Of course I could be wrong.

Just waiting for some clues on how to confirm the timer wires are not spliced together wrong and will check those before putting the flywheel back and moving on to replacing the intake manifold gasket.

 

[Randyg123]

Re: 1975 135HP Stator and Timer Base

Well, I checked out the timer base leads. See the attached photo

Working CCW from the aft position, the leads go as follows
Sensor 1
Sensor 3
Sensor 4
Sensor 2

I checked using resistance and received zero ohms between the lead end at the powerpack and the lead end at the sensor. I also checked each lead from the sensor's end to each other lead and got the expected infinite resistance (except for the 1-3 and 2-4 combination where I got about 9ohms) as well as each lead to ground which read infinite resistance as well.

Is the lead order correct?

 

[Randyg123]

Re: 1975 135HP Stator and Timer Base

Bump^^^

Somebody better feed iBoat's squirrels so they can get back to runnin' the generators. Their server is running awfully slow!

 

[Randyg123]

Re: 1975 135HP Stator and Timer Base

Not to be greedy but now that the server seems to be back in gear (squirrels fed and well-rested) I'm bumping this back up. Is the Sensor order correct?

 

[ezeke]

Re: 1975 135HP Stator and Timer Base

Yes.

You need to follow the instructions for timing in the factory manual step by step, starting with the initial adjustment of the full advance stop screw. - see page 4-4, figure 4-10; then set the pointer following the instructions on page 4-15.

The full throttle spark advance running at 4300 to 4600 RPM in gear with a test wheel is 20 degrees, The throttle pickup is 4 degrees.

 

[Randyg123]

Re: 1975 135HP Stator and Timer Base

Roger that! thanks ezeke.

Looks like this was a more a nah-hah moment
Still no reason why my timing stop must be set in so far. Like many repairs, perhaps taking it apart and putting it back together will solve my problem
Will do the complete timing and link-n-sync once I get her back together. No test wheel so i will have to rely on the now-infamous Reeves method.

Before I put the flywheel back on, I am going to replace my intake manifold gasket and check out the leaf boxes for any signs of damage or dirtiness. I suspect I will be starting a new post on this subject as soon as my gasket arrives (hope it came in today!!!!)

Thanks again.