1975 Invader Intruder 170 restoration

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Re: Hello iboaters! 2nd boat, 1st resto

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Trooper82

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Re: Hello iboaters! 2nd boat, 1st resto

Re: Hello iboaters! 2nd boat, 1st resto

My Lowe's sells the 15/32 and 23/32, so sandwich two 15/32 together or just go with the 23/32? Sorry for all the dumb questions....maybe the intel analyst in me is over analyzing this.

I used the 23/32...It is just 3/4" sanded on one side.


Just watched your last video...it was hot today for sure..

Don't give up, it has turned into a rewarding experience for me, and I am not even half way there yet...
 
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Re: Hello iboaters! 2nd boat, 1st resto

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Trooper82

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Re: Hello iboaters! 2nd boat, 1st resto

Re: Hello iboaters! 2nd boat, 1st resto

I didn't have to pull my cap, so cannot provide much help there. I have read that others who did take a lot of accurate measurements, then use strap clamps to keep the hull in place before putting things back in.
 
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Woodonglass

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Re: Hello iboaters! 2nd boat, 1st resto

Re: Hello iboaters! 2nd boat, 1st resto

Not sure why you think your deck is not integral to the structural integrity of the hull??? I don't think I've ever seen or heard of one that isn't, unless it's a tinny. Tabbing the deck to the sides of the hull keeps the sides of the hull from flexing. While you are restoring the hull the sides can flex out of shape and if you don't reinstall the deck and maintain the exact dimensions of the sides of the hull your top cap will not fit back on the hull, that is IF you decide to remove the top cap.
 
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Woodonglass

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Re: Hello iboaters! 2nd boat, 1st resto

Re: Hello iboaters! 2nd boat, 1st resto

Well, R U sure it's the original deck!!! Never seen a glass deck from the factory that wasn't tabbed to the sides of the hull. A hack job from a PO maybe. I always recommend a layer of CSM and a Layer of 1708 for tabbing em in.
 
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oops!

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Re: Hello iboaters! 2nd boat, 1st resto

Re: Hello iboaters! 2nd boat, 1st resto

hi bud.....

finally got some free time to go over the thread,,,,, nice boat !

ok... you have a few misconceptions here that is causing you some confusion....

first off..... yes... you are really overthinking this....

and yes... you boat does need stringers.....all the way....
as far as pulling the cap to get at the front deck....why?,,, are you sure there is rot up there? is the foam wet?
if she aint broke.....dont go there......the bow usually does not get to bad with rot and intrusion.....only the walk thru area.

ok.... it really seem like this is going to be a full gut.......how is the transom?.... have you done core samples yet?

that pipe from the front is from the anchor well or aux ice chest in the bow.....not much water will leak out of that.

ok... where are you at right now?.... is all the foam out?... about an 18 inch blade on a sawzall will do the entire boat in no time.....the tip of an electric chain saw also makes short work if that job.

plywood on edge is far stronger than dimensional lumber.....and 3/4 inch is all you need for stringers. esp in a 17 footer.

there is no epoxy in your boat......that looks factory....and they do not use epoxy due to the cost vs benefit.

if i were you.....i would take EVERYTHING OUT OF THE BOAT... the batts, the gas tank.....the motor......all that carp is just slowing you down...get it all out...and get in there and rip her......a full tear down should only take 2 days max.....and its the most back breaking part of the job.

take lots of measurements and diagrammes of the stringer height, and lay out.....then with a sawzall ....cut them all out......dont stop till you have a completely empty hull....

click the link im my sig for any glassing info you need... its all in the first 16 pages.....its quite a read.....but it will save you hours of thinking and loosing sleep.

oh.....btw.... the deck is a very very very important structural part of the hull... as important as the stringers.
but dont worry.... we have the links for you to do it correctly.

pm me back when you are gutted !

cheers buddy
oops
 
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