1975 Johnson 115/Remote Controller unit replacement with new

[natewgeishofski]

I have a 1975 Ouachita 18.5 with a outboard Johnson 115 with a "Command Center" controller, I put the boat in the lake and it had no power at the turn of the ignition. I have replaced the ignition switch, checked all the wiring, batteries, starter, starter solenoid, accessory solenoid with no luck. The only thing I have not tried is just replacing the remote control assembly, I have been told the internal kill switch could be bad. I am looking to just replace/update the entire controller assembly instead of trying to diagnose and fix, does anyone know how you would replace the old controller with a new age universal remote control?

 

[Crosbyman]

before you jump ahead and spend lots of money on more parts
a dead engine (no start) is frequently a straight forward issue needing a methodic approach to finding the problem .

you do not tell us what exactly you did to chase the issue down

did you start by cleaning up accessible connections ex Battery !!
did you get the selenoid to click on START
any fuses to check on this engine what voltage test did you do to track down the absence of power ??
etc...

 

[natewgeishofski]

before you jump ahead and spend lots of money on more parts
a dead engine (no start) is frequently a straight forward issue needing a methodic approach to finding the problem .

you do not tell us what exactly you did to chase the issue down

did you start by cleaning up accessible connections ex Battery !!
did you get the selenoid to click on START
any fuses to check on this engine what voltage test did you do to track down the absence of power ??
etc...

Yes I also cleaned up all connections, solenoid does click on start, and fuses are all good. On voltage test no power leaving the ignition solenoid wiring.

 

[Crosbyman]

On voltage test no power leaving the ignition solenoid wiring* . ???


so power reaches the key .... key START works sending +12 to the selenoid which clicks ... that is good

* what wiring ??

.... the fat 12v post to the starter ??? is the the incoming battery feed to the selenoid ok?? seeing a12v on the IN post from the batt. is not enough.

B+ Cable could be corroded or bad crimps stopping full amps reaching the fat IN selenoid post ...and not turning the starter (weak volts/no amps) on the OUT post ... ( Try a direct (jumper cable) batt to Starter post see if it turns ....)

As a test .... twist/turn the fat +12v cables while the selenoid is activated (start) by a buddy. if a reaction happens that cable is bad.

does the engine crank ?? if not bad selenoid internal contacts, bad cable crimps or bad starter or..... a bald spot on the starter ... try a wack with a rubber mallet...

make certain the ground cable is good also ...repeat the same twist test

going off line for the day... painting :-(

 

[racerone]

Any control box up to 1995 will work.------Must have the big REDPLUG.----No exceptions.-----If 12 volts is confusing then a replacement control box is the easy ticket.

 

[oldboat1]

Wouldn't hurt to see if the neutral safety switch in the box is working. Look for a break in continuity when the button is extended (as in the pic -- yellow switch, white plunger). Easy to test. As suggested above, also try a direct jump from your truck to the starter to see if the starter is alive.

 

[Crosbyman]

I think his safety and neutral are ok because the selenoid clicks on START